Evinrude 65hp starting problems

Nolaner

Cadet
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
14
I've got a 65hp Evinrude engine with a broken electrical ignition. I pull started it yesterday with the "emergency" starter cord, and it runs fine.

Brand new solenoid and battery

Sometimes when I turn the key it will click (once) like the solenoid is ok, other times it won't, when I first hooked up the new battery it even cranked for a split second, but no, it just decided to get my hopes up and crush them. I've got 12V going into the solenoid, but I either have nothing coming out (when the key is turned to on and/or turned to cranking) or I'm hooking the tester up wrong.

Thanks for the help.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: Evinrude 65hp starting problems

Welcome to iboats.

Do you have 12v going to the starter while cranking? If you do, your starter is possibly faulty and may need to be replaced or rebuilt.

These problems are usually connection/wiring related. Checks for nicks, cuts, abrasions in the wiring, or "crunching" when you flex it, and replace as needed. Remove all connections regarding the ignition system, polish them, then re tighten. This includes all grounds.
 

Nolaner

Cadet
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
14
Re: Evinrude 65hp starting problems

Thanks, I checked the starter and a got a big 0, so I'll have to dig into the wiring tomorrow.
 

Nolaner

Cadet
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
14
Re: Evinrude 65hp starting problems

So my friend told me the trick of bypassing the ignition system by connecting the two bolts and that didn't produce anything, no clicks at all, I definitely have 12v going into the solenoid so it makes me think the solenoid is bad.

But when I try to bypass the solenoid I get nothing, and I get nothing voltage-wise either when I connect it. I get 12v going through the cables when bypassing but then nothing when I connect them. Any clues as to why this is happening?
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: Evinrude 65hp starting problems

1) Battery Load tested and charged to 12.65 volts?

2) With that battery out of the boat (because I know you are getting it load tested right ) it is a good time to polish those connections like previously stated. Don?t just look at them, make them shine! Also inspect the wiring thoroughally, buldges in the insulation or crunching as you flex it are a sure sign that the wiring is corroded internally. Replace as needed.

3) With the cables clean and tight and a good battery, you can now see if the problem occurs. If it doesn't you are golden. If it still doesn't work or works sporadically, check and clean the remaining cable connections on the solenoid and the starter. Once again, don?t just look at them, make them shine.

4) If it now works you are ready to go fishing. If not, use a short jumper wire to short the small terminal on the solenoid to the large terminal on the solenoid (the one that has the POSITIVE battery cable connected to it). Be prepared for a spark. You are really doing the same thing that the ignition key does in the START position. If the engine spins fine every time, you either fixed the problem, or if not, the problem is in the harness between the engine and ignition switch.

5) Disconnect and inspect the large red harness plug in the cowl. Clean it as best you can with electrical contact cleaner, smear some grease around the contact edges and reconnect. Now use the ignition switch to try and start the engine. If it works every time the connector was the culprit. If not, you now need your trusty voltmeter.

6) Put the POS voltmeter lead on the small terminal on the solenoid. The NEG lead goes to ground. Have someone turn the ignition key to START. If you don't see 12V troubleshoot the harness between the engine and control box. If 12V is present every time, the switch is good.

7) Measure the voltage at the starter (+) terminal while somebody turns the key over to "start" - if you get within half a volt or so of the battery voltage, the starter is faulty.

Bad voltage at starter (with clean tight connections), measure the voltage at the solenoid small terminal with the yellow/red wire with the key turned over to "start" you should read within a half-volt of battery voltage, otherwise you have a wiring fault between the keyswitch & solenoid. Good voltage at solenoid but bad voltage at starter means faulty solenoid.

8) Now connect a single jumper cable between the POS battery terminal and directly to the large terminal on the starter. If the starter spins each time you do that, the solenoid is likely the culprit.

9) Connect another jumper cable to the NEG battery terminal and a good ground (bare bolt head or bracket) on the engine. Now do the same test you did in step 8. If the starter now goes ok, you still have a negative battery cable problem or the solenoid is bad.
 
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