'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

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T-Max

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Well, I was hoping I wouldn't have this problem but it appears that I do.

This boat has been sitting for a few years and although I did pull the plugs and put some Mystery Oil into each cylinder and then turn the crank by hand around a bit, it now will not budge.

I pulled the plugs again and looked into the cylinders with a strong flashlight and the front 3 look fine as far as the tops of the pistons go, but the back one had a few spots of corrosion on it. Exactly one week ago I poured a goodly amount of Mystery Oil into the cylinders so that each one had a visible volume of oil in there which could be seen using the flashlight, and replaced the plugs. I just now checked again and all the oil has drained out of the front 3 cylinders, but it appears that none has drained out of the last one.

So it would appear that the back cylinder is frozen and now I have to pull the head -- at least for starters.

Not a big deal for me, although it IS a PITA.

So, before I get started, does anyone have any helpful suggestions? I think I'm committed to pulling the head now that I'm convinced that there's some rusty situation in that back cylinder. I'm not inclined to try some other penetrating oil and maybe get it freed up at this point. If I knew that there was just some light rust and that running the motor would probably take care of that situation, maybe I'd go for it. Hopefully, that's what I will find when I pull the head. A little rust would be much better than a lot of it, but I think I gotta see what I'm dealing with here first.

Freeing up that last cylinder might well be something I'd like to know after the head's off, but for the moment I'm thinking about any tips on things to watch out for in pulling the head.

I'll probably have some specific questions once I get into it, but for now I'm just throwing this out for any helpful hints that might come my way.
 

stonyloam

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Download manual #8 from adults only. When you pull the head you need to keep track of the rocker arms and pushrods so that they go back in the same places they came from. The 470 engines tended to have water problems with #4 cylinder, so that is what you have. Use a OEM Mercruiser head gasket when you put it back together. NAPA aviation sealant is a good substitute for Perfect seal. While you are at it you might want to replace the riser gaskets, and have a valve job done, hardened exhaust seats are a good idea too. When you put the head bck on, follow the manual directions EXACTLY. Any questions, glad to help:).
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

...The 470 engines tended to have water problems with #4 cylinder, so that is what you have. ....

Thanks, Terry. Will do as you advise. But ......

OMG!!!!! :eek:

I was a bit puzzled by your reference to the "470 engine" since I have a "170," so I googled things and found out that I do have the "470 engine block" which is .......

OMG!!!........

...... an aluminum block.

No WONDER they have coolant leak problems, which just happens to come up as the first freakin hit when you google "mercruiser 470"

OICH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I suppose it's a weight issue, but I LOATH and DESPISE aluminum blocks!!!!!

:mad:
 

stonyloam

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

I suppose it's a weight issue, but I LOATH and DESPISE aluminum blocks!!!!!

:mad:

You are not the only one:D. They do weigh about 200# less than a 4.3, and when you get it running it is a strong engine. They are not so bad, but you have to keep them cool. Look at it this way it will make you a better mechanic, and a more patient and tolerant person...... maybe.:D
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Download manual #8 from adults only. ...When you put the head bck on, follow the manual directions EXACTLY....
Well, I have to say that Service Manual #8 doesn't do a very good job when it comes to removing the head. See p. 82; it has just 5 steps, the first one being (very simply) "Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds." Maybe there are more detailed descriptions as to removing the intake (and exhaust) manifold(s), but I can't find 'em.

So it looks like I'm pretty much on my own. There's a LOT to disconnect and get back together as it was, so I'll be taking copious notes.

I'm also planning on taking the head off WITH the exhaust and intake manifolds attached. The exhaust manifold, for example, has LONG studs securing it. So it's not a case where you can just remove the bolts and pull it away from the head a bit and then just lift the head up away from it.

And the first PITA I have to address is one which I actually started a week ago when I began this project; namely, removing the "fan belt." The belt runs only the power steering pump (which probably operates other stuff as well) but there's insufficient movement in the adjustment to allow removal of the belt. So I just gave up because I didn't really need to remove it back then.

Now I do. It looks like I have to take at least the top stud out in order to get the belt off and hopefully get the pump sufficiently disconnected from the head so that when the head is ready to lift up and off, I can do it. So I'll likely be destroying that stud with my pipe wrench -- I hope it comes out so that I can put a new one in!

It's not gonna be easy to do this project, but I have no choice.

Suggestions / advice / tips always welcome. :D
 

Don S

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

If you think the OEM manual is vague, don't forget one thing. Those Mercruiser manuals are designed to be used by Merc techs that go to Merc tech schools.

You should try one of the aftermarket manuals that targets DIYers. They have about 10 or 15 pages that covers everything you have in manual #8.
Which would you rather have?
 

stonyloam

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

LOL after I did mine last year, removed the intake and exhaust then the head, I looked at and said why the heck did I have to take all that stuff off first? Could not see any reason why you couldn't do it all together and disassemble on the bench. It might be a little heavy, and clumsy, heck...go for it, let us know how it works out.:D:D Oh! By the way welcome to the 470 club, lots of us in the same boat:eek:.
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

If you think the OEM manual is vague... try one of the aftermarket manuals that targets DIYers. They have about 10 or 15 pages that covers everything you have in manual #8. Which would you rather have?
My comment was only directed to the portion about removing the head. I perused the section on carburetors and it is WAAAAAAY detailed. Goes on and on for pages and pages.

The manual looks very good and very complete. But as far as the head removal portion goes, they might as well just said "loosen the bolts and take it off." I mean, here are the 5 steps they give ya:

1) Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds
2) Remove rocker arm cover and valve mechanism
3) Disconnect spark plug wires and remove spark plugs and coil brackets
4) Disconnect water hoses
5) Remove bolts, cylinder head assembly and gasket

That's IT!

What's up with that????

Ya think maybe Merc techs that have been to Merc tech school might know to do that stuff without the manual telling them?

I guess I'm used to Chiltons and Haynes, yada yada yada.

I've drained the coolant and will remove all the hoses and relevant wires and make note of where the wires go, etc. If I had a digital camera (which I really need to get) I could just shoot pics of everything as is and then I'd know where it all goes later on.

I don't even have a cell phone to do that with!! My GF's cell takes pretty darn good pics, but she's not comin' by for this fiasco.

Goin' up on my roof now because I can hear the finale of the local fireworks!
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

LOL after I did mine last year.. I ... said why the heck did I have to take all that stuff off first?...It might be a little heavy, and clumsy...
Ya, I considered the additional weight of all that 'manifold' stuff, but I think I can handle that. It'll require a little advance planning, like a landing zone for the assembly after I get it airborne and off the block. It doesn't look like something I'll be throwing over my shoulder and tossing off to one side. A helper to maybe slide a couple of pieces of one by three under it and onto the block might not be a bad idea.

Something like that sounds like a plan.

Why did you do yours, if you don't mind my asking?
 

mdlee

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Check the flywheel before you pull the head. I had a 190 whitch is almost the same as your motor, lock up. I pulled the head only 2 find nothing was wrong. The magnets on the flywheel had broken off and compleatly stoped the shaft from turning.
 

stonyloam

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Why did you do yours, if you don't mind my asking?

Blown head gasket, coolant in #4 cylinder. Sound familiar?;)
mdlee has a point, the magnets can break off and jam things up. They are under the harmonic balancer though, not the flywheel, minor point:D.
 

mdlee

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

They are under the harmonic balancer though, not the flywheel, minor point:D.[/QUOTE]

Yea that thing..... My bad I had a few beers before that posting... Yea the harmonic balancer.. It will seem like the motor is locked up,,,
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Blown head gasket, coolant in #4 cylinder. Sound familiar?;)
mdlee has a point, the magnets can break off and jam things up. They are under the harmonic balancer though, not the flywheel, minor point:D.
Check the [harmonic balancer] before you pull the head. I had a 190 whitch is almost the same as your motor, lock up. I pulled the head only 2 find nothing was wrong. The magnets on the flywheel had broken off and compleatly stoped the shaft from turning.
Terry - Don't go anywhere because I'll be wanting to know what you did to #4 cylinder to get things right. How bad the damage was, what did you do (or have done) -- all that jazz. I'm obviously a ways away from needing that info, but I'd like to know your experience when it's my turn to deal with what I find inside.

Mdlee - thanks for the tip on the magnet thing. One more good thing to know about this engine. I doubt that's the problem here but even if it turns out to be, I have seen enough of cylinder #4 to warrant pulling the head at this point. Plus now I know (from the good info I've gotten on this board from Terry) that these engines have "that issue." So pulling the head is something that must be done.

What is it Don has on all his posts? -

Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, But always enough time to do it again?

'Nuff said.
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Okay, ready for the big, BIG news?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The head is off. And the good, GOOD news is that things look pretty good. The #4 piston was virtually (if not actually) at TDC, so that prevented any rusting of the cylinder wall by virtue of water / moisture on top of the piston. I'll have to take a peek at the timing mark to see if I'm actually at TDC, or, if not, which side of TDC I'm on. Because I anticipate maybe tapping on a piece of 2x4 resting on top of this piston, or maybe I'll get crazy and cut a circular piece of 3/4" plywood to fit on top of the piston to protect it, then use the 2x4 on top of that, and tap on it that way to force the piston back down -- while maybe having a helper try to turn the crankshaft (perhaps from the rear using the driveshaft?). So it'd be nice to know which side of TDC I'm on so that I can have the helper trying to turn the crank in the proper direction.

Then again, maybe I should do my tapping on one of the other pistons? But aren't they at BDC if this one (and #1) are at TDC?

So TDC could be good news and bad news, I suppose. Good news for the reason I stated, and also as per below, but bad news because it doesn't give me a good "bite" for forcing this (or another) piston downward and thus freeing up the stuck piston.

Anybody who has a suggestion on how to free this piston up (short of pulling the engine) please chime in.

As I say, the piston was high enough that any possible cylinder wall corrosion above it could really only be to the ridge that ya have to ream before removing the piston (or maybe just a hair shy of that) and that area obviously never gets involved in any ring-sealing situation. So corrosion there is no big deal (and there isn't any anyway). I can't imagine that there's going to be any cylinder wall corrosion below the top of the piston. This was not a case of the cylinder head gasket leaking -- this was due to the fact that the boat hasn't been run in too many years and thus moisture, and maybe even some water, has gotten to that back cylinder because the boat is stored on the trailer and tilted back to let the rain water run off the cover.

The other cylinders all look fine. Boy, are these pistons BIG!

The intake valve looks like I should pull it and check it out. No problem there.

I'll likely also pull the harmonic balancer just to make sure I'm okay there. Thanks again for that one, Mdlee. Might also pull the starter, just to be on the safe side there too.

The job went smoothly. Consistent with my ever-adaptable personality (a.k.a shapeshifter) I reversed myself on the issue of not removing the exhaust and intake manifolds -- and I'm glad I did.

Here's how that came about. I mentioned previously that I thought I might destroy that power steering pump stud that needed to be removed (because I was going to use my pipe wrench to get it out). But then I remembered the old "double nut trick" and so I tried it and damn if it didn't work like a charm. So that stud came out pretty slick.

The main reason I was going to leave the exhaust manifold on the head was due to the long studs that would have prevented me from simply unbolting the manifold and pulling it away from the head a bit so that I could just lift the head up and out. In order to do that I'd have to remove those long studs, and I figured (from past experience) that would be a real PITA. Those stud threads are usually stuck pretty good.

But after my stunning success with the double nut trick on the power steering pump stud, I decided to try that trick with the long studs on the exhaust manifold. There are only 3 of 'em and the first two actually came out by just turning the original nut -- the coarser 'stud threads' actually preferred to give way to the finer 'nut threads' on the other end of the stud (they were a bit rusty, I have to say). So just trying to 'unscrew the nut' caused the stud to unscrew.

That was a bonus fer sure.

The other one came out easily with the double nut trick.

The other reason I changed my mind (assuming I could get those long studs out) is that there's a LOT of hoses and stuff to disconnect if ya wanna take the exhaust manifold off. Leaving it in place on the boat means ya only have to take one very short hose off -- from the head to the (very heavy) cast iron coolant reservoir. That hose is so short that it's kind of a PITA, but it wasn't a big deal to get it off.

The intake manifold is a breeze to take off, so no problem with removing that.

So it looks like Service Manual #8 was right on the money (Don?) because removing the manifolds is DEFINITELY the way to go -- assuming you can get those 3 long studs out.

I was pleasantly surprised when I pulled the rocker arm cover off. The rocker arms look brand new and everything under there is spanking clean. It could be a new or rebuilt head but the rocker arms do indeed look new to me. I had a feeling this engine was worked on fairly recently before I got it.

So that's my story so far, and I'm sticking to it.

Now the first thing I have to do is get to the store for some more GOOP because I'm out of it. I believe I actually have another unopened container of it around this zoo somewhere but I'm giving up trying to find it. I'll just go buy another one -- THEN I'll surely find it. Cuz that's how that ALWAYS works.

Anyone not familiar, here ya go -

http://www.goophandcleaner.com/

This is the ONLY stuff you EVER want to use (good for stains when doing laundry too -- as they like to point out). I've been a shade-tree mechanic since I was 13 (50 years and 2 wives ago) and also worked as a mechanic in several garages during my teen years. Then I was an Army-trained track and wheeled-vehicle mechanic at Uncle Sam's urging back in the day (they actually gave me an MOS that I was highly qualified for -- go figure) so I know a thing or two about hand cleaners. And trust me, this is the ONLY stuff you'll ever need. It's a freakin' miracle -- the Eighth Wonder!! A lot of supermarkets carry it around here, so it's easy to get.

They gotta be making MILLIONS off this stuff.

As to Uncle Sam and that whole thing, it was 1966 and those of you old enough to know might remember what was goin' on back then. I guess I should have been reading the papers more carefully, or otherwise paying more attention, because I never expected that I couldn't take a year off after high school before starting college. Well, suffice to say, I got my letter even before my 19th b'day -- and ya only had to register when you turned 18.

There was no "lottery" back then.

Look, I was 18 freakin' years old. My attentions were diverted elsewhere. Who was reading the freakin' papers? I had better things to do.

Have ya ever seen Scent of a Woman? Hoo ha!

Anyway, when they gave us the battery of tests at Fort Dix, most of the goofballs I was with were just goofing around about it. Bad idea -- real bad idea. If you had some sort of talent for something they ALSO might need, well then you maybe had a shot at not getting the dreaded "foot soldier" MOS. So I took those tests REAL SERIOUS-like.

And son-of-a-gun if they didn't make me a mechanic.

Spent my time in Germany drinking that good German beer and hanging with the Fr?uleins. The Man In The Black Pajamas never got past Heidelberg (as old Lonesome George used to sorta say).

Oh yea!!!

Being the genius that I am (if I do say so myself -- and I do) they also wanted me to go to OCS. But I figured they had enough raw 2nd lieutenants to send "in country" for cannon fodder, so I declined that offer.

Too bad it wasn't peacetime because being an officer in this man's peacetime Army could definitely have been fun -- I'd have even gladly taken the extra year.

Anyway, the head's off and things are looking good. Suggestions on what to do next welcome, as always.
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

A couple of tips I wanted to mention. I thought of these while I was working on the project today.

1) I've left some of the bolts to some things "in place" (like the rocker arm cover bolts that have the wiring harness clips) by leaving them thru the clips and then twisting a metal twist-tie, like the kind you get on some bread wrappers, around the threads so as to hold the bolts from falling out of the clip (or whatever). This way you know where they came from and you also won't misplace them (which I do ALL the time).

2) I like this one: I've learned from working on this boat, and particularly on the bellows part of the project, that the position of the stainless steel clamps is crucial in many instances. If you don't position the clamps correctly, you might not be able to get to them to loosen them when things are back together. So, an easy way to know where they were positioned when you took things apart is to simply look at the old hose. You'll see the impression of exactly how the clamp was positioned on the old hose. This works particulary well on any hose with bends in it (water hoses and such) because they only go on one way. So if you're putting the old hose back on, just put the clamp where it made its impression before you took it apart.

If you're replacing it, take note of the impression on the old hose and put it on the new one the same way.

Doesn't work so well with round bellows because they can go on in any position. But note that the exhaust bellows on my Alpha 1 setup has an oblong-shaped flange on the exit end (not round) so that means you CAN get the clamp orientation right via the impression (or get it 180? out!).

Just some thoughts that might be of interest.
 

stonyloam

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn

Glad things are working out for you. I did not have a stuck piston, just some evidence of water, pitting in the chamber. If you have head work done, (I had hardened exhaust seats installed) ask the machinist to measure the valve height and make sure after the work is done they are the same. That is because there is no valve lash adjustment on the rocker arms, the lash is set by the pushrod length. Use a oem Mercruiser head gasket when you put it back together. They seem to hold up better. Yes it does have big pistons:D. Good luck.
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn (let's try that link again)

Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn (let's try that link again)

Just an update on my progress and a status report -

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2773552#post2773552

This thing really seems stuck more than I thought it would be after I got the head off and saw the situation with the cylinders. It's just cylinder # 4 that's affected at all and I'm really quite surprised that it's this much stuck. :confused:
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

Current status is that after several rainy days I'm able to get back to trying to unstuck this thing. Just to summarize things:

The head is off and the starter is off. Cylinder #4 is the stuck cylinder and it's just a hair shy of TDC, as is #1. Pistons 1-3 are just fine and they move freely laterally in their cylinders by using a soft wooden block in the valve pocket(s) and tapping it gently with a hammer. I put a little MMO into each of those cylinders and moved them around a bit, but I already know that each of those cylinders drained out several ounces of MMO that I'd previously put into each thru the spark plug holes before I pulled the head.

So those cylinders are fine and posing no problem.

I have not pulled the harmonic balancer and I have no reason to believe there's any problem there that would prevent the engine from turning. I doubt that's a factor at all here although I recognize that it's possible.

I worked around the top of the piston with a safety pin to break the rusty 'seal' that might have prevented the MMO I have in that cylinder from working it's way down. I've had MMO in that cylinder for at least 2 weeks now, but it's only been few hours that I've leveled the boat (which is on the trailer) so that the engine is level enough that the MMO covers the entire top of the piston. Previously, it was just covering the back half. I didn't want to leave the boat level with all this rain we've had but now that it seems we will be having a run of dry days, I can leave it level.

I havent't yet tried anything but MMO to break the piston loose. I realize that MMO is not what I should be using -- it's not really a penetrating oil -- but if I move to something else I'm thinking of trying Coca Cola or the 50:50 ATF:Acetone thing that Rocky_Road previously posted about. That scored the highest according to the author of that information.

http://forums.iboats.com/showpost.php?p=2774064&postcount=13

The problem I have with pounding on the top of the piston to try to force it down and free is that it's virtually at TDC. That's good news and bad news. The good news is (I hope) that there was virtually no exposed cylinder wall to get corroded by the water or moisture that caused this problem. I won't know for sure until I get a gander at that portion of the cylinder wall (which is essentially all of it) but I'm hopeful that any water that might have actually accumulated on the top of the piston never seeped down around the rings and corroded that cylinder wall. So that's the good news about it being at TDC. If it had been at BDC, the entire cylinder wall would have been exposed and subject to corrosion.

The bad news about it being at TDC is that if I try pounding on the top of the piston, I'm basically trying to force a crank journal down when it's pointed straight up. If the piston was halfway up the cylinder, then the crank journal would be halfway up and pounding down on the piston would tend to be effective because the crank journal would be free to move downward.

But when the crank journal is straight up, it's almost as bad (or maybe IS as bad) as when it's straight down And ya obviously aren't gonna get anywhere pounding on the top of a piston when it's @ BDC

Duh!!!!

Which is the case with Cylinders 2 & 3 here. And #1 is same as #4 (essentially @ TDC).

So pounding doesn't seem like a likely solution here.

It seems to me that one sure way to fix my problem is to pull the engine and pull the oil pan and pull the rod cap off #4. Then I should be able to turn the crankshaft away from #4's rod and create plenty of space between that rod and it's mating crank journal. Then I can safely pound down on piston #4 and perhaps (probably?) break it free.

I'd also be able to see at least some of what cylinder #4 looks like below the piston.

But that seems like a lotta work to me and I'm hoping that if I can just break this thing free, the cylinder wall will be fine and I can put this puppy back together and fire it up and go from there.

So, I'm looking for suggestions on how to break it free at this point.

The only thing I've come up with is pulling the front pulley and then trying to find another hub that'll fit onto the crank (with the key, of course) and then using that hub with a long lever to try to turn this engine. If I can find a hub, I can have something welded to it to accomodate my leverage thing.

Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I will move the earth.

Does this engine bear a sufficiently close relation to any automotive engine (like it's head apparently does) such that I can get a suitable hub at a junkyard? I mean, is this crankshaft just the same as a 'FoMoCo-whatever' crankshaft?

If it is, and I know what engine I need, I can just go to a junkyard and get the pulley/hub for a few bucks.

Suggestions welcome. :)
 

T-Max

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

...The only thing I've come up with is pulling the front pulley and then trying to find another hub that'll fit onto the crank (with the key, of course) and then using that hub with a long lever to try to turn this engine. If I can find a hub, I can have something welded to it to accomodate my leverage thing... I can just go to a junkyard and get the pulley/hub for a few bucks. Suggestions welcome. :)
It occurs to me that a simpler solution might just be to bolt something onto the current pulley hub which would accomodate a long bar / lever using the 3 bolt holes in the hub. Problem is, I'm a bit stumped as to the size of those holes.

These are the holes you'd use with a puller to pull that hub (pulley). I'm not sure that you're actually pulling the "harmonic balancer" when you do that, but you are pulling the pulley part of the thing.

Mine were kinda rusty and plugged up with buildup of rust and whatever but I got them cleaned out and I screwed in a bolt quite nicely. But that bolt seemed a tad too sloppy for my tastes. The threads seemed okay but the bolt definitely seemed too loose. It seemed like a larger bolt size was called for but the next size bolt I have was too big. I didn't mind the sloppy fit since I was happy to get something in there to clean out the threads as much as I did; but if I wanted to actually bolt something onto that hub, I'd want the right size bolts. I'd be afraid to use the size that went in there for fear they'd strip out under any kind of pressure on them.

Anybody know offhand what size bolts fit properly in there????

Like I said, I think they are properly sized for a hub puller.

I doubt it's a metric thing because the threads on the "smaller" bolt that went in seemed correct.

Frankly, it seems a tad wierd to me. But that bolt definitely seems too small to be a proper fit.
 

Bondo

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Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

Re: 'Stuck' Mercruiser 170 will not turn -- looking for suggestions

Anybody know offhand what size bolts fit properly in there????

Ayuh,.... How about possibly mentioning what size the sloppy bolts are,..??

I'll guess they're probably 3/8"-16...
 
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