Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

[Jigs]

Hello all. I am just finishing up a nice 1954 3hp Evinrude Lightwin rebuild. I've got it running like a top and it's got a good bit of water coming from the tell tale. Still, I am going to replace the impeller with a newer brass centered type.

So, I drained my lower hypoid oil and removed the 4 bolts to seperate the lower gearcase. My manual and online reading lead me to believe it should slide out.

It only comes down about a half of an inch and I've got resevations on doing any forcing. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Sound's like the splines in the drive shaft are rusted into the crankshft spline's. Try tapping it down with a piece of wood. This may pull the impellor drive pin thru the pump housing, but you are replacing that anyway.

 

[Jigs]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Thanks R.Johnson-
So if I use a piece of wood and give the lower end a few taps downward, can I damage the splines?
The lower gearcase drops a half of an inch easily.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

I no longer have the book on that engine. It may have a spring loaded seal. try slowly turning the flywheel as you pull down.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

No spring loaded seal; just an o-ring.
Here's what has worked for me:
Turn the motor upside down (don't scratch the tank!) and lean it on something.
Wedge open the 1/2 inch or so that you can get it open.
Get a flashlight, and a can of PB Blaster (or Kroil or whatever) with a nozzle tube, aim it downwards at the driveshaft and start spraying. The goal is to soak the other end that is rusted into the crankshaft. Really spray it down.
Let it sit there and stew for 24 hours
Lightly tap the wedge in more to see if it breaks loose.
Repeat once more if it doesn't work the first time.
If that doesn't work, then you may have to bust the water pump housing....

 

[F_R]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Lesson to be learned: This was all caused by somebody leaving out a ten cent o-ring. If not corrected, it will destroy the crankshaft due to the splines rusting away. What a shame.

 

[Jigs]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

No spring loaded seal; just an o-ring.
Here's what has worked for me:
Turn the motor upside down (don't scratch the tank!) and lean it on something.
Wedge open the 1/2 inch or so that you can get it open.
Get a flashlight, and a can of PB Blaster (or Kroil or whatever) with a nozzle tube, aim it downwards at the driveshaft and start spraying. The goal is to soak the other end that is rusted into the crankshaft. Really spray it down.
Let it sit there and stew for 24 hours
Lightly tap the wedge in more to see if it breaks loose.
Repeat once more if it doesn't work the first time.
If that doesn't work, then you may have to bust the water pump housing....

Thank you for that. I may try to run the motor for the season. It's going on a 16 ft square stern canoe. It's got good flow thru the tell tale. I'd hate to put it out of service, just as I get it running.
Maybe I'll try this at season's end. Maybe I'll try it today. I'm on the fence.

 

[Jigs]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Lesson to be learned: This was all caused by somebody leaving out a ten cent o-ring. If not corrected, it will destroy the crankshaft due to the splines rusting away. What a shame.

This motor was pretty clean when I got it. What are the odds of the splines being stuck together permantly? I realize nobody can say for sure, but just from past experiences.

 

[F_R]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Well let's just say it can be anything from mild rust to on the verge of turning loose completely. Only an inspection will tell.

 

[Jigs]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Well, I sprayed it with about a fifth of a can of PB Blaster a few hours back. The waiting game is on.

I am very reluctant about damaging the housing. I can not locate one on the internet and my local dealer is quoting around 90 bucks.

part #203119 now superceeded by part #310344

Does the drive shaft seal need replacing when you get into the housing?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Laing's has them. Whole kit 64 bucks.
http://www.laingsoutboards.com/newpage4.htm#JOHNSON EVINRUDE Includes Gale, Sea King up to 1963, and others

I don't think that there is even a drive shaft seal on that impeller housing.

 

[Jigs]

Re: Trouble seperating lower gearcase/1954 3hp Lightwin

Success!
PB Blaster comes through again. I let it sit as described by tx1961whaler reccommended for about 5 hours. I pushed my shims together and it popped out for me, leaving the water pump housing intact. The splines look nice and clean, and the ruber o-ring was 3/4 present.

Excited to change the impeller, I hit both scews on the housing with PB Blaster. Backed one out, the other broke flush with the housing. Drilling out the post led to puncturing the housing!!

I'm going to give jb weld a shot on the hole before buying a new one. (thanks for providing the link tx1961whaler) Thanks to all involved, the impeller was missing a leg, so I'm better for it.