help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

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PS94

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Look also where the lower would ride when being trimmed up, and down, for wear and scores. The JR method took me two evenings, drinking beer, and doing the exhuast bellows and shifter cable boot..
 

Utahboatnut

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Don't forget the alignment tool for the re install of the engine and drive. And the trim sender was it working before? if not now would be a perfect time to fix that as well. As well as a good inspection of the gimbal bearing, ujoints, and bellows top, bottom, shift cable.
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

First off, when I did mine, I did not use the plugs in the holes. I used a very thin backing plate and epoxied the aluminum drill plugs back in the holes, filled with JB Weld (there it is:D) sanded and painted. Looks just the same as before. Will show you how if you drill the holes.

For tools: You will need a alignment bar (e-bay), a torque wrench, pivot pin tool (they say a 1/2 inch allen wrench will work), drift for removing bottom swivel pin.

you will want to replace #4 seal and Maybe 4 & 5 bushings #21 cotter pin here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show.../2.png&inbr=1942&bnbr=70&bdesc=GIMBAL+HOUSING

On the ring #2 bushing and #17 nut here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...&bnbr=80&bdesc=GIMBAL+RING+AND+STEERING+LEVER

You will need to replace the drive bellows, and should probably do the shift cable bellows too. Your exhaust bellows might be OK, If they look good, would reuse them (easier to get back on). While you are at it you should replace the impeller. A outdrive gasket kit for when you put it back together.

You will need some perfect seal, or NAPA (permitex) aviation sealant (if you do the impeller), bellows cement, Quicksilver spline grease and Quicksilver 2-4-c.

All I can think of for now. Good luck!
 

Kainon

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Not for nothing, but I wouldn't use a used one, I would get a new one. I would also not be concerned with the exhaust bellows alone unless it was really ripped. I would replace the all 3 Bellows, maybe even the gimbal bearing, tighten the bolts on the transom plate, and think about replacing the lower shift cable.
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

The only thing to be concerned about a used ring is if the square hole at the top is worn. It is very hard to tell just by looking at it. This is what you need to do: If he has the upper swivel shaft too, place it position in the top of the ring. Put in the two gimbal ring clamping screws, and tighten er down to 55 ft lb. If it clamps tight with NO play at all you should be good to go. If you can't do that, make the sale contingent on doing the same with your shaft.
 

MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

First off, when I did mine, I did not use the plugs in the holes. I used a very thin backing plate and epoxied the aluminum drill plugs back in the holes, filled with JB Weld (there it is:D) sanded and painted. Looks just the same as before. Will show you how if you drill the holes.

For tools: You will need a alignment bar (e-bay), a torque wrench, pivot pin tool (they say a 1/2 inch allen wrench will work), drift for removing bottom swivel pin.

you will want to replace #4 seal and Maybe 4 & 5 bushings #21 cotter pin here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show.../2.png&inbr=1942&bnbr=70&bdesc=GIMBAL+HOUSING

On the ring #2 bushing and #17 nut here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...&bnbr=80&bdesc=GIMBAL+RING+AND+STEERING+LEVER

You will need to replace the drive bellows, and should probably do the shift cable bellows too. Your exhaust bellows might be OK, If they look good, would reuse them (easier to get back on). While you are at it you should replace the impeller. A outdrive gasket kit for when you put it back together.

You will need some perfect seal, or NAPA (permitex) aviation sealant (if you do the impeller), bellows cement, Quicksilver spline grease and Quicksilver 2-4-c.

All I can think of for now. Good luck!

Wow- this is great! So I understand, you kept the hole centers you cut out- and used them to fill the holds by attacheding a plate to the inside (to bridge the hole and attach the hole center to. Would love to see how you did this. How long did the process take via this approach?

Is this the alignment tool I'll need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merc-OMC-Drive-Engine-Alignment-Tool-P-N-91-805475A1-/310226981981?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item483af8145d
 

MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Okay- I just talked to the guys about the used gimbal ring. Turns out it's off a Gen 1 Alpha (i've got a gen 2). The shop said it would fit a gen 2- maybe a different impeller? Looks good- it's still attached to the drive right now but things look tight. They are asking $250- guessing I could get them down a bit.

Given it's Gen 1 and used, I do kind of think I should get a new one.

Thoughts?
 

stonyloam

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fyrfightr

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Wow- this is great! So I understand, you kept the hole centers you cut out- and used them to fill the holds by attacheding a plate to the inside (to bridge the hole and attach the hole center to. Would love to see how you did this. How long did the process take via this approach?

Is this the alignment tool I'll need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merc-OMC-Drive-Engine-Alignment-Tool-P-N-91-805475A1-/310226981981?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item483af8145d

Personally I would go with this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALIGNMENT-GIMBAL-SEAL-BELLOW-TOOLS-MERCRUISER-/270595616198?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f00c16dc6

These extra parts make installing the gimbal bearing and the u-joint bellows much easier
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Wow- this is great! So I understand, you kept the hole centers you cut out- and used them to fill the holds by attacheding a plate to the inside (to bridge the hole and attach the hole center to. Would love to see how you did this. How long did the process take via this approach?
[/URL]

I will try to describe what I did: After everything was back together I degreased the inside of the holes as best I could and smoothed off the burr left on the inside from drilling. I made an aluminum backing plate out of some scrap flashing (about 0.020? thick). Sanded it to rough it up, cut a flat rectangular piece just a tiny bit narrower than the diameter of the hole and about ?-3/16 inch longer. Clipped the corners off so that it would fit through the hole.

picture.php


Made a ?handle? for it by piercing the center and screwing a wallboard screw in a couple of turns.

picture.php


Once I got it to fit OK, made up a small batch of JB Kwik (5 min epoxy), applied it to the ends of the backing piece and inserted it into the hole. While holding it in place I filled in any spaces on the edges with the Kwik. Hold it for about 5min and then let it set for ? hour or so.

picture.php


Degrease and sand both sides of the aluminum ?plugs?. Small batch of Kwik, thin coat on the back of the plug , and a little dab to seal the screw hole. Stick it to the backing plate (not too much pressure). Let it set.

picture.php


I switched to JB Weld for the rest of the repair, just thought it might be stronger. Degreased and sanded around the hole. Made up a batch of JB and filled the space around the plug. Used duct tape to hold a piece of waxed paper over the patch to keep the JB from running while it set. Next day sanded it smooth, made up another batch of JB to finish filling a few low spots.

picture.php


When cured, sanded smooth and painted with Rustolium.

picture.php


Before I painted it I took my drill and made a little dimple in the center of the plug, so I would know where to drill if I ever had to do this again. Not perfect, but a lot better than plugs. Held up well so far. One note, I f you can get ahold of JB Marine epoxy, it sets in 5 minutes, and has the same specs as JB Weld, you you could do the whole thing in a couple of hours.
 

MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Thanks. Looks great.

How hard was it to get the bolts off through the farily small holes? Pictures seem to indicate a ton of rust ect.
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

How hard was it to get the bolts off through the farily small holes? Pictures seem to indicate a ton of rust ect.

Mine was not rusty at all. It was mostly a matter of moving the outdrive around to access the clamping bolt, and being able to get the center punch on the nut on top. If you don't use the pipe plugs, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a little bigger hole saw, say 1 1/4 instead of 1 1/8 (move the center up 1/8 inch). Would probably make things easier. I don't see where there would be a structural problem.
 

badognobisc

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Jun 17, 2009
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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

here is my gimbal ring to show you that the steering pin does wear it out and why not to go used. OEM or machined is 10 times better then purchasing a used lower unit. You would not be able to tell unless you drove the boat that there was a problem. Merc dealer and an independant merc cert cmechanic siad there was no problem or excessive play when grabbing the back of the motor. It was with in 1 inch tolerance. As you can see there was a big issue.


This is pretty extreme wear and tear. The new pin and gimbal ring fit perfectly. This ring would allow a zero turn radius for left and a right turn that was very wide. When you tow tubers or carry extra wight for wakeboarding and put strain on the outside of the wake when riding ski or board, this puts extra tension on the pin/ring wear and tear.

This should have equal metal on each side to form a circle with a square punch out directly center. The two bolts that torque to 55 lbs go on either side. This was looking straight down.
 

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MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

So I drained the gear oil (which looked good) pulled the drive off, removed the trim sensors and pulled the bottom pin. Unfortunately I had to stop there though because I didn't have a 1/2" allen wrench to get the side bolts out. Went to Lowes and HD to buy one but they didnt have anything bigger than 3/8. In the morning I'll hit Harbor Freight. So far so good.

I spoke to a guy in TN (mike the ebay store guy some of you have purchased from), he's got one I can buy with all new peripherals. He was very helpful- spent 20+mins on the phone with me this afternoon.

question, when I pulled the drive, I found this - brown water. Does this indicate that I've got a leak in one of the bellows? Or is it not a problem?
imageby.jpg
 
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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

That water is not normal or a good thing. Spin the gimbal bearing with your fingers and see how it feels. Probably going to have to replace it and u-joints, both don't get along with H20 too well.

Don't think Harbor Freight has that allen either, I've looked at my local store and haven't seen it. Maybe Napa?
 

MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

is there a typical/common point of entry?
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

is there a typical/common point of entry?

Yes it is, but you will be replacing the bellows anyway, so all part of the job. Doesn't look like much oil in the water, that is a good thing.
Try NAPA, you should be able to get a 1/2 in allen that fits on your 3/8 inch socket wrench.
like Eric says the gimbal bearing has to be smooth as silk.
 

MI_Boat

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Update-

After getting into things last night I determined that going the 'motor out' route - was just not going to be feasible. Additionally, it seems that the two side hole method would be a real challenge because my boat bumps out on both side of the transom - so getting my head in there along with tools seems like it would be pretty difficult.

So... I just got off the phone with Ron @ JR Marine - great guy. I went ahead ordered their access cover kit and tool set. Should have everything tomorrow.

On the way to work I picked up a 1/2" allen socket - so hopefully I'll be able to get the side bolts out later today (got the bottom pin out already). I also need to check out my gimbal bearing - do to the water. I pray that this is okay- one less thing to buy.

Tomorrow I?ll cut the hole and try to pull the swivel shaft and check out the bellows, steering cables etc. I'll then know what all I need to order to finish up the repair.

Of course to add to the complication, my boat is scheduled to go in for a cover next week- which means I'll be out of commission most of next week.
 

stonyloam

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

Update-
So... I just got off the phone with Ron @ JR Marine - great guy.


Yes he is!:) The hinge pins are put in with red Loctite, so may need a little heat to loosen them up. The upper swivel pin has a threaded hole in the bottom, book calls for a slide hammer, but I just put a long carriage bolt (6", 7/16-20) through a board up into the pin, held end of board and tapped down with a hammer, came right out. If you have to do the gimbal bearing, do it with the bellhousing off, much easier, and Autozone will loan you a slide hammer for free, get the biggest friggen one they have:D. Hope you don't mind all the advice, if I knew then what I know now:rolleyes:.... Sounds like you are well on the way to your July vacation:cool:.
 

Utahboatnut

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Re: help- big crack in outdrive... how much will this cost me

With known water intrusion make 110% sure your gimbal is perfect as well as the ujoints. If not you may be doing all this again plus a bunch more.
 
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