1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

jeffbriggs18

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May 6, 2010
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Me and my buddy bought a 1972 glastron swinger with volvo pent AQ130C with 270 outdrive. So far we have replaced the head gasket,valve adjustmemt, plugs, rotor, points and condenser. We set the timing and dwell angle as per the workshop manual we purchased. Out of the water the engine runs strong and sounds excellent. we have changed the oil in the lower unit. We took it to the lake and in the water it wont rev up higher then 2000 RPms, wont plane, and goes about 10MPH at WOT. What could cause this? we have training as auto mechanics but this will be our first marine engine. just need to find out why it wont work under load and the 1 time it did work, it would rev up to 5500 and only go about 15mph, it has a 14X15 prop on it. We want to get this thing running good enough so we can go water skiing. any help will be aprreciated
 

zbnutcase

Commander
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Sep 19, 2009
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2,055
Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Did you check the distributor advance to see if its working properly?
 

jeffbriggs18

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May 6, 2010
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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

How do i check the distributor advance and how do i adjust it if its not working properly, i am use to working with ignition coils, not distributors
 

captmello

Captain
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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,830
Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

hook up your timing light and watch the timing marks as you rev the engine. the timing should change as you increase the RPM's.
 

PiratePast40

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Mar 21, 2009
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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Sounds like you have multiple problems. If you had it up to 5500 rpm in the water and only got up to 15 mph, sounds like a spun prop hub.

After verifying the timing, it's a good idea to go through the fuel supply system from the carbs back to the tank. Could be water in the fuel, old fuel, sticky anit-siphon valve, clogged vent, junk in the fuel pickup tube, clogged fuel pump inlet screen, carbs need cleaned, etc.

That's one of the trials of an older boat. If you're not sure of the condition of everything, you need to verify each and every component. You'll get it eventually. And NO - dynamite is not an acceptable solution !!!! :D
 

jeffbriggs18

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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Thanks for the ideas, i took apart the carbs and cleaned them, probly took out id say 11 OZ of dirt and crap from chambers and jets, fuel filter was no existant just a bunch of rust in the container. SO now with the carbs clean hopefully she will run good, can i use like a ford fuel filter inline? i cant find the filter for my boat anywhere but can hook up like an f-150 fuel filter. I heard to check gear ratio in the lower unit you turn the engine once and count the prop rotations. I put the crank pullly mark at 12 o'clock and went to 6 then back to 12, 1 full rotation, the prop only went from 12'oclock to 3 o'clock, is that the spun hub bearing? how can i check that? i have the workshop manual for my lower unit. final problem, i need to get the gas tank out or atleast slide it over a few inches to get the sending unit out, but where it is and the space they give you from the bow floor to the clamp bolts is like 1/2'' i cant get a wrench or screwdriver in their, anyone know a trick to get the tank out of a 72 glastron v-177 swinger tri hull?
 

PiratePast40

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Mar 21, 2009
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1,734
Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

For the fuel filter, not sure if you're saying that you don't have a housing but any boat shop should have an assembly. NAPA also has the spin-on filter/separators. Here's a picture of the generic assembly: http://www.iboats.com/Fuel-Filter-Water-Separator/dm/*******.022526101--**********.308347166--view_id.56071 Some of the older boats don't have these so it's a good thing to install one.

Gear ratio is stamped on the outside of lower bearing housing. Pull the lower zinc (the round one around the prop shaft) and you'll see it. Not sure but it may also be indicated in the serial number if the drive.

The propeller has a rubber insert (hub) glued to the prop that is designed to tear apart instead of breaking something in the event the bottom jumps up and bites the prop. The best way to test if it's "spun" is to paint a line across the hub and rear of the prop and then take it out. If the paint line doesn't line up afterwards, then the hub has turned in the prop. If it's really bad, you may be able to turn the prop by hand while the boat is in gear.

As far as the gas tank - afraid I'm no help on that one but if you've allready cleaned the carbs, the inlet filter on the fuel pump, the fuel filter and have fresh gas, might want to try it before tearing the boat apart.
 

jeffbriggs18

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May 6, 2010
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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Got the boat on thew water over the weekend and got it going around 35 MPH at about 4800 RPM, atleast thats what the speedo says. i think cleaning the carbs did the trick. Did check the triming advance and it did go up on the numbers so i think thats ok for now. took it out friday for about 3 hours, ran great compared to before, checked the oil, looked good, went to go out saturday and the oil had turned a dark grey color, not milky like it would if water got in the oil, just a metallic grey but no metal shavings. the engine also burns about a qt of oil every few hours which i know is the rings. and the breather has alot of white smoke and the grey gunk coming out of it, had to disconnect it from the carbs and route it out from the engine bay it just puts out smoke. So the problems are why is the crankcase getting filled with so much smoke and crap? why is the oil turning grey?
 

sqbtr

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Feb 23, 2010
Messages
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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Check the compression
 

fossill

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Jun 20, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1972 Volvo AQ1430C Wont move!!!!!

Got the boat on thew water over the weekend and got it going around 35 MPH at about 4800 RPM, atleast thats what the speedo says. i think cleaning the carbs did the trick. Did check the triming advance and it did go up on the numbers so i think thats ok for now. took it out friday for about 3 hours, ran great compared to before, checked the oil, looked good, went to go out saturday and the oil had turned a dark grey color, not milky like it would if water got in the oil, just a metallic grey but no metal shavings. the engine also burns about a qt of oil every few hours which i know is the rings. and the breather has alot of white smoke and the grey gunk coming out of it, had to disconnect it from the carbs and route it out from the engine bay it just puts out smoke. So the problems are why is the crankcase getting filled with so much smoke and crap? why is the oil turning grey?

It's called blow by due combustion gasses blowing past the piston rings. Engine needs an overhaul.
 
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