Keel rollers or bunks?

[jasoutside]

So I am getting ready to start working on my old junker trailer and make it look and function like new again.

I have been debating whether to replace everything that I have there with the same set up (two bunks and keel rollers) or switching over to four bunks. If I did four bunks the two middle ones would be about 4ish feet longer than the ones on the outside - up to the next cross beam.

My keel has some damage from the previous owner loading the rig on those junk rollers. Rats!

I don't know, just thinking out loud here. What do you guys think? Am I making it more than what it is, does it not matter all that much?

Cheers!

 

[sprintst]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

I'll be picking up some Stoltz 8" bow rollers that have support in them so they don't collapse under load. Should be able to roll off and on very easily.

I started a thread a while back looking for the best rollers.

Mine has two bunks that seem to support the boat well enough. I'm not sure what kind of problems 4 would introduce so I'll wait for other replies.

 

[ben2go]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Rollers over time can deform a hull because they create pressure points.I prefer bunks if the boat is going to sit on the trailer full time when out of the water.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

The trailer is designed for the keel rollers and trying to substitute the rollers with bunks I don't think will work out because there isn't enough angle in the "v" of the trailer.
I would just invest in some now rollers and bushings and fine tune all the pressure points to evenly distribute the load between all the rollers and the outer bunks. That is not a drive on trailer or (easy loader) trailer but under ideal conditions you can do it, at least I can mine and it's a similar set up, I usually just guide it on using the bow line, if you miss that second roller you have start it on all over again. You have an inboard ha?

 

[DJ]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

That is a good set up you have, especially for an aluminum boat.

I would replace the rollers with non marring type. I like Stoltz.

The trick is to balance the load between the rollers and the bunks.

When I set up my trailer, for my Whaler, (by the way, Whaler requires just such a set up) I set the boat on the rollers. I then jacked the bunks into place until the boat would no longer rock and felt solid.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Rollers over time can deform a hull because they create pressure points.I prefer bunks if the boat is going to sit on the trailer full time when out of the water.

I've heard "they" say that.

My "old" wooden boat (Grandma) has been sitting on keel rollers for 58 years. The keel shows no dents in the wood and the hull is as true as the day she was built.

My "new" fiberglass boat (Mom) has been siitting on keel rollers and swinging bunk ez loader stern rollers for 26 years with similarly good results.

Ditto for Uncle George (my 1964 tinny) everyday kickabout fishing boat.

All three rigs are setup similar to yours.....keel rollers and 2 fixed bunks to support the load and keep her steady.

There are 2 keys to proper trailering....First, make sure that there are ENOUGH rollers to support the load. Each roller should only support a few pounds. Second, keep the boat covered and the bilge dry. When the boat rots from the inside, the hull will deform no matter how many bunks you have under her.

Replace your keel rollers with Stoltz poly rollers, re-cover your bunks and you will be golden. You have the best boat trailer design made (IMHO). When you load and launch with Stoltz, the other boaters on the dock will wonder how you could do it so well!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

You guys are killing me with the Stoltz business!!! I'd need to take out a loan to buy those things!

I think the best I am seeing out there is $150 for five of them and I'd still need to buy the shafts. So maybe 200 big ones just to replace the rollers, ouch!!! Whew!

I like them, don't get me wrong, but that is some serious $$$, eh! The black version is about HALF that. I know, I know, you get what you pay for.

Thanks for the suggestions fellas!

Rock on!

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

My trailer is a 1967 and it has the original black ones and they are still in good shape! You don't need those high dollar polymer ones, the black ones will more than likely outlast you if set up right.

 

[sprintst]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Basspro has them for 120 shipped to Canada for 5 rollers.

My guess is you will beat that down south...

My black ones are f'd. They go right down to the metal in spots.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Basspro has them for 120 shipped to Canada for 5 rollers.

My guess is you will beat that down south...

My black ones are f'd. They go right down to the metal in spots.

Yah, I need the big 12 inchers so that puts me at $145 plus shipping, plus shafts puts me just short of the $200 mark.

Hey, hmmm, so I just found these...

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...en/common/search/search-box.jsp.form23&Go.x=0

A set up like that would run me about half, eh!

 

[cedarjunki]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

poly vinyl are non marking as well. and fairly cheap.

any reason not to use these? i hope not :/

i got mine locally at gander mtn. they were only a couple bucks more than the black ones.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Its not about being non-marking, or even that they last longer. Its all about launching the boat. Put a pair on and you'll see what I mean. Rubber has some friction to it, while the poly is much more rigid.

I used to get about 10 years on a set of rollers. My current Stoltz are 15 years old and look like new. They are worth more than double the price.

If your plan is to fix the trailer, then sell it before long, go with the cheep ones. If you plan on keeping the boat, you won't be sorry.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

OK, so check this out...

I just made room in the bow of my rig for a pair of fuel tanks totaling 61 gallons - a lot of weight, eh! I am thinking about the keel resting on those rollers, it is just aluminum after all.

Here is another piece of info...

I am almost always alone or with one of my offspring when going out (and they are all pretty small yet). So basically I am launching/loading this by myself. My method is to unhook the stern straps, give just a little slack in the bow strap and "float" the boat off. To get her back on I just run the trailer down deep enough to crank the rig up easily. It should be a lot easier once my boys get older but until then, that is the current operation.

For you roller fellas, knowing these two additional things, would you still make that recommendation?

Thanks guys, have a great Sunday!

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

No problem that's how I do it, I have a set of trailer guides, the pvc. looking plastic tubes that clamp to the trailer and extend up past the gunnels, they work great, you back in deep, pull the boat to the bow eye, then pull out very slowly, the guides will maintain position the same every time.

 

[DJ]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

jasoutside,

Those rollers from Cabelas will work fine.

I do not like the black ones because I hate seeing black marks all over the bottom of the boat. Especially, a freshly painted one.

 

[JimS123]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

OK, so check this out...

I just made room in the bow of my rig for a pair of fuel tanks totaling 61 gallons - a lot of weight, eh! I am thinking about the keel resting on those rollers, it is just aluminum after all.

Here is another piece of info...

I am almost always alone or with one of my offspring when going out (and they are all pretty small yet). So basically I am launching/loading this by myself. My method is to unhook the stern straps, give just a little slack in the bow strap and "float" the boat off. To get her back on I just run the trailer down deep enough to crank the rig up easily. It should be a lot easier once my boys get older but until then, that is the current operation.

For you roller fellas, knowing these two additional things, would you still make that recommendation?

Thanks guys, have a great Sunday!

With the extra weight in the bow, I would at the very least use a Stoltz where that weight would be resting. That amounts to about 450 pounds...it will destroy another roller in short order.

As an aside, I would be interested to hear about the boat's performance after that. That's a lot of weight in the bow.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

With the extra weight in the bow, I would at the very least use a Stoltz where that weight would be resting. That amounts to about 450 pounds...it will destroy another roller in short order.

As an aside, I would be interested to hear about the boat's performance after that. That's a lot of weight in the bow.

Thanks Jim - yah that second tank up in the bow will mainly be as "auxiliary". The 33 gallon that sits closer to mid hull will be the main tank. I have high hope for performance on this rig, eh! At the moment, not so much.

OK, if it has to be Stoltz I had better start saving my pennies.

 

[Kainon]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

I like bunks with keel rollers, also I'd be concerned about planing with the fuel tank up front.. you want to maintain some balance..

also loading/unloading with weight up front will affect when the front "floats" I think you'll need to be deeper in which will affect how you'll launch by yourself, which is what I usually do.

-brian

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

Hi, I would have mentioned this a little sooner, I've been offline for a while.

I have a couple concerns about sealing the transom wood in Epoxy.
1. Unless you are installing an outboard, once you cut the hole for the drive you'll need to re-coat where you cut.
2. Any hole you drill or attaching things to the transome ( like inner screwholes will need sealant. Else moisture will get in.

One thing I did was to put some 3M 4200 & 5200 in a few places along the channel at the bottom.

I also found I had a hole right at the channel the hole couldn't be seen from the outside but I'm sure thats where I had a leak. be sure to check for screw holes where pitots and transducers were.

I also had a problem when I cut a little to much off the top of my transom where the alum panel dipped down, check for straightness and level before screwing (new holes in transom) the alum back down.

Nice work !!!

-brian

Thanks for stopping by, eh!

Yah, I am with ya. Once the outdrive hole is cut I'll actually need to measure and add to that transom as it needs to be between 2" and 2.25". How much do I need? Don't know at this point but I will after I install and make the hole cut. THEN I can seal everything up again.

As for the rest of the bolts going in I'll either over drill and fill with epoxy and then re-drill (tedious), or, drill and use 5200. We'll cross that bridge...

Bottom line, NO WATER IS ALLOWED TO TOUCH THE WOOD! I will not be going through this again, eh!

 

[Kainon]

Re: Keel rollers or bunks?

I like bunks with keel rollers, also I'd be concerned about planing with the fuel tank up front.. you want to maintain some balance..

also loading/unloading with weight up front will affect when the front "floats" I think you'll need to be deeper in which will affect how you'll launch by yourself, which is what I usually do.

-brian