40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

mottt

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I want to make sure I am hooking this up correctly. Here are pics
1) is the kill switch. The 2 black wires are attached
I didn't want to spend the money for the actual ignition switch so a $8 one is going to do the trick.
3) Are the remaining wires that need to go somewhere. I know the two tan ones go to the solenoid. But where do they attach to the ignition?
4) Is the back of the ignition switch. There is a BAT, ACC, IGN and the center witch is the Start.
5) Another ignition switch
6) Ignition solenoid. What posts need to energized to make this work?... In other words how do you test this with a 12v to see if this is working?

This is one of my final steps in understanding the wiring system.
Any help would be appreciated

thanks in advance
 

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bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

What year 40 is it and does it have the choke solenoid on the motor? If so that ignition switch will work but won't work the way you want. Just out of curiousity, why 2 ignition switches or is it the same switch?
 

bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Anyways, if it does you were better off to buy the $25 dollar switch which would have avoided the momentary switch and that other switch all together. The 6 pin push to choke switch would have given you push to choke, ignition kill and solenoid activation all in one. If you do have a choke solenoid you will have to add a third switch or manually choke it every time you want to start it. The white wire coming off your solenoid would probably go to the center terminal on your switch as it won't go to the ground or the accessory so I'm assuming the center terminal is for start.

One tan wire may go to a mercury switch and the other goes to the ignition switch. To test, put 12 Volts directly to the terminal that would normally go to the ignition switch.
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

I think it does have a choke solenoid. But maybe you can show me where.
It has a lever next to the carb that says choke on, off, auto. so i assume there is one.
The ignition switch is just 1 switch, but i took 2 pictures of it.
 

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mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Sorry its a 1963
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Anyone?
 

jbjennings

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

You SHould have an electric choke on the motor, although I couldn't see it on there in the pics. The choke lever you refer to is the MANUAL choke. There should be a little solenoid with one wire coming off it and a lever that works the choke valve.
You need at least 3 of those single switches to run the motor, so the single switch you have is not a good deal money-wise or handiness. Get the real switch for your motor. They're not that high and as already stated, you'll have choke, starter, and kill circuits all in one. You can get a universal key switch pretty cheap and almost anywhere, I believe, as BK mentioned.

BTW, why do you think you need a new switch? They usually hold up pretty well. Just looking at the pics of your starter solenoid and the wires going to it, I'm thinking all of your wires and contacts could stand a good cleaning. The starter solenoid is only about 15 bucks in case it's bad. You need a wiring diagram so you don't fry anything.
Good luck,
JBJ
 
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tootallofwa

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

No electric choke on that engine. It's a 63' and has the water heated choke.

I can see how an auto switch can work but you will need a second normally open momentary switch to kill the engine.

Just hook both black wires to the momentary switch and when it is pressed the coil side of the points will be shorted causing it to die. The switch could be mounted on the cowling or on the dash.

The auto switch would be for starting. Green to BAT, white to Start. A normally open switch could be used here too for push button start.

Accessories need a separate connection to the battery via axillary fuse panel/secondary harness.

Otherwise connect the 16ga lt-brown wire to a warning light, the other side of the light to ACC on the ignition switch (the light will come on when engine is hot)

Looking at the wires in your hand, the white one goes to start. the "two brown" are 1 very dirty gray (unused ground) and the other tan is the temp sender connection to an idiot light for over heating. power the light from acc terminal (you really don't need it)

The heavy wire you need to hook to the bat side of the switch is
GREEN. Where did it go? It's the one that connects to the battery side of the solenoid. I can see it coming out of the solenoid box. The dark brown heavy wire is not used unless you have the rare generator.



The engine wire colors should be:
14ga black wires, one from magneto to cut out switch post then into the harness runs all the way through the solenoid box to the dash.
the other from the magneto has a knife disconnect then into the harness through the solenoid box to the dash.
1 14ga white wire from the cut out switch housing into the harness and connecting to the solenoids' 4th post.
1 14ga white wire from the cut out switch housing to the safety switch under the flywheel.
1 14ga tan wire from the head temp sender into the harness through the solenoid box to the dash.
1 10ga blue (for generator connection) not used (capped each end)
1 10ga yellow (for generator connection) not used (capped each end)
1 4ga black (starter ground) grounds to solenoid box along with neg battery cable
1 4ga red (starter power) connects to starter side of solenoid (large terminal)

The Ignition harness has:
2 black and 1 tan wire (continuing from engine.)
1 10ga brown wire (for amp-meter/power accessories) not used (capped each end.)
1 10ga green wire connects to battery side of solenoid (large terminal) along with pos battery cable then to the bat side of ignition switch.
1 14ga white wire from solenoid 3rd terminal to start on ignition switch.
1 16ga gray wire grounded to solenoid box and (unused) at dashboard

I have a dead one in my back yard.:)
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

The heavy wire you need to hook to the bat side of the switch is GREEN. Where did it go? It's the one that connects to the battery side of the solenoid. I can see it coming out of the solenoid box. The dark brown heavy wire is not used unless you have the rare generator.


The Green wire is already hooked to the BAT terminal on the ignition.

Thanks for all of this, it is helping greatly.

I still want to test the solenoid. with a continuity tester, placing leads on both sides of the solenoid (battery cable terminal) What jumper leads do I have to run to get continuity? I am thinking I need 12 v on one or two of the other terminals, right?
 

bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Just to add- you can pull accessory power from the key switch, it has an "ACC" terminal. That solenoid look like it belongs in the Smithsonian , I'd be putting a new one on for the $20 they are worth.
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Another question
Does the motor have a generator? To recharge the battery? If so what wires do I need to hook up?
 

bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

IT was an option and no your motor doesn't appear to have one.
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Thats too bad. What are people sapposed to do if one wanted to run accessory things on the boat? ie Radio, lights, others?
I know of course I do have a battery onboard but how long will that last?
 

bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Well if you run a nice big deep cycle battery quite a while. My buddy's boat has the same setup, we run lights and a FF, charge it up every third or forth trip. You need to know that the battery is just for starting, the magneto is a self contained ignition system, if you run out of battery power you can always pull start it.
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Does anyone have a picture of what the generator looks like. (attached to the motor). I am just curious. I have another johnson 40 and I am a visual guy. Thanks for all who responded. I always get the info I need here.
 

tootallofwa

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

I still want to test the solenoid. with a continuity tester, placing leads on both sides of the solenoid (battery cable terminal) What jumper leads do I have to run to get continuity? I am thinking I need 12 v on one or two of the other terminals, right?

There is no point to continuity testing the solenoid. It is an electromagnetic switch. Basically it either works or doesn't. If you do put an ohm meter on it, there is no connection between any of the posts. The small posts seem to have a slight resistance to ground. That's all.

But if you supply power to either of the small posts, the large posts will be connected. Not a good idea to continuity test any circuit with power applied to it, you might fry your meter.

As for a generator picture... search the forum... I've seen one here somewhere.
Generally 55'-70', 18-40hp engines are set up the same using some of the same brackets/starters/fuel pumps/generators.

I wouldn't worry about a generator, a good deep cycle battery is all you need.:D:D:D
 

tootallofwa

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Oh!!!

BUY A BOOK!!!

You're shooting your self in the foot without a book!
I've got Seloc's 56-70 johnson/evenrude repair manual. It's OK but the factory service manual may be better. I think it's available here @ iboats.
;)
 

bktheking

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

A gent 2 weeks ago posted his motor and it had a generator, might have been a smaller big twin but same S***, I have a small PDF on these motors if you want it, PM me.
 

mottt

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Oh!!!

BUY A BOOK!!!

You're shooting your self in the foot without a book!
I've got Seloc's 56-70 johnson/evenrude repair manual. It's OK but the factory service manual may be better. I think it's available here @ iboats.
;)

I do have a book, and I am just starting to read it. Things are slowly starting to make sense in the book, but I get fast clarity by asking specific questions here. Thanks again to all!
 

lindy46

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Re: 40 hp Bigtwin Ignition / solenoid

Here's a 1964 Lark with the generator.
 

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