88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

[further]

Well, in my efforts to remove the drain plug with an EZ out, it of course broke off and is now stuck inside the allen head and I cant get it out. I am worried about drilling this out as I know it is much harder metal than the case or the stainless plug and worried I will just make more of a mess. Is it feasable to leave the old one alone and drill and tap a new hole next to it? Has anyone done this? Where would be the best place? Anyone have any pics of it done?
As always, thanks to all for your insight.

 

[further]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

somebody? anybody?

 

[foodfisher]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Most of the screw receiving areas I've noticed are built up just to receive the screw. Surrounding areas are thin skinned, so an adjacent hole doesn't appear to be a good idea. I would try to remove enough material around the easy out to grab it and remove it. A dremel w/ a small grinding bit comes to mind. Careful as a caring dentist

 

[Stachi]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

I agree with FoodFisher ,however , if you are uncomfortable with removing the easy out, you might consider dropping the lower unit and bringing the unit to a local machinist to remove the easy out and the remaining plug . It would be wise at that point to bring a new drain plug with you and have him clean/dress the old threads and install it for you. While you have the lower unit off, not a bad time to inspect the waterpump and at least replace the impeller if housing is in good shape. Good luck bro !

 

[further]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Thanks for the advice. I decided to top of the oil and let it go for the winter and next season and will deal with it next year. I didnt' get much time out on the water this summer and changed the oil (via the shift linkage pin = yes I got very lucky) when I bought the boat back in June (maybe got about 15 hours total) Also replaced the water pump housing and impeller at the same time so its all fairly new. If I need to do the oil next summer, maybe i'll try to do it through taking off the anode which I've read on here can be done, then after next season, I'll take the lower off and take it to a machine shop and also replace the impeller at that time.
Thanks again.

 

[moparman]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

simply weld a large nut to the piece of ez out ,which will do two things 1. it will put some heat on the threads to help loosen it up and,2.it will give you something to turn with[ the nut that you weld on]. By using a mig welder, it will keep the heat from being excessive to the point of ruining seals and such, this is something I do quite often and with excellent results too. You want the nut you are welding on to at least be as big inside as 1 1/2 times the size of the piece you are welding to.[ex: ez out 1/4 inch ,nut inside dia needs to be at least 3/8,this way you will have good surface area to weld with. If the piece to be welded to is below the surface of the surrounding area [ezout broke off down in a recessed hole] then build up the piece till its flush. keep us posted on your results ............. MOPARMAN ROLLTIDE 9-0

 

[further]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Thanks for the advice Moparman, but unfortunately I don't have a mig welder nor have i ever used one. I definitly see how that would work though. I guess i could rent one or something but i'm just too much of a newb to try and do something like that. Don't want to be buying a new LU because i melted the case or something. lol.
thanks again,

 

[moparman]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Well you might try one of your friends to see if they might have one [or access to one]. you could offer a fishing trip to sort of swap out[ LOL]. seriously it's an easy fix ,and shouldn't take but a few minutes to do .Keep us posted .MOPARMAN ROLL TIDE 9-0

 

[sentinel]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Depending on the amount of material near the edges of the allen screw, my second attempt would be to get a sharp small center punch and with light hammer strikes, at a very shallow angle in the correct direction to unscrew it..... ....Frequently changing impact points around the circumference.

What should have been done in the beginning was to use an impact screwdriver and a light hammer by rotating the impact screwdriver to take up the play in the spring load, and then tapping it with the hammer. It will always come unscrewed because of the momentary impact jar and the light but firm torque. But this was not done.... so....

My first attempt (now) would be to use the same small center punch to loosen and dislodge the easyout...it can be done....because it sheared from twist. Use different angles and directions of strike on the easyout. Then do the impact driver scenario. It may be necessary to use a small blade screwdriver if the proper size allen wrench does not fit the impact driver. Either way works the same. -Larry

 

[further]

Re: 88 85 HP LU drain plug - should I drill and tap a new plug next to the old?

Thanks Larry. I tried the impact driver first with heat as well but no dice. I'll try the center punch idea to get the easy out out, hopefully it'll give. Unfortunately, the thing was toast before I even started on it.