Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

MTribe08

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The boat I just bought is coming with a 1995 Eagle Spirit Dual axle trailer. It has drum brakes on the rear axle.

The previous owner had a private boat house that he stored the boat in, so the trailer was not used much at all. The brake fluid reservoir has since dried up, leaving some surface rust on the outside surrounding the bolt, and some surface rust inside.

Wondering where I should begin? Should I just put some Dot3 fluid in the reservoir and begin the bleeding process? I'm hoping the lines aren't blocked up, which I suppose could be the case. The drums look really clean with no noticeable fluid leakage.

Or, should I take the wheel and brake shoe off and try and clean up the actual breaks first? I'm wondering if I'll need to replace the brake wheel cylinders...Here are some current pictures.
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picklenjim

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

Looks like the axels are bent.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

Looks like the axels are bent.

No, they are made that way to counter the weight of the boat. I put a Brand New Axle on my Quad Trailer its the exact same way.
 

marlboro180

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If the reservoir dried up, it means there is a leak somewhere. The master cylinder bore will most likely be scaled w/ rust as well. Not very nice to the o-rings as they will most likely be destroyed going past said rust. Hopefully the wheel cylinders are ok.
I'd pull her apart and get all the rust out, hone the master, reassemble and test on the bench.
Your right , the lines may be or soon will be clogged. Disconnect them and flush them out.
Or you could just replace it all....
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If the reservoir dried up, it means there is a leak somewhere.

So, brake fluid will last forever, if you don't have a leak?


Your right , the lines may be or soon will be clogged. Disconnect them and flush them out.
Or you could just replace it all....

Will do. Thanks
 

bruceb58

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

So, brake fluid will last forever, if you don't have a leak?
No it won't. It does absorb water and does break down. Any moisture in the fluid will corrode the internals of your master cylinder and your wheel cylinders. I change the brake fluid in my cars and my trailer every 3 years.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

No it won't. It does absorb water and does break down. Any moisture in the fluid will corrode the internals of your master cylinder and your wheel cylinders. I change the brake fluid in my cars and my trailer every 3 years.

I didn't think so.....I figured if moisture got in there it would eventually break down and evaporate. Hopefully the lines are clear and I can blow them out..get some new fluid in there and see where we are at.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

Before you bother bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid, see if they even work. Jack up each wheel and pull on the emergency lever by sticking a pipe over it for leverage. Spin the wheen and see if the brakes will apply. If they don't, you need to pull the drums( I would do this anyway to check the condition of the bearings) and see what may be the problem. For a 14 year old trailer, I would think the wheel cylinders are going to need to be replaced anyway.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

Before you bother bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid, see if they even work. Jack up each wheel and pull on the emergency lever by sticking a pipe over it for leverage. Spin the wheen and see if the brakes will apply. If they don't, you need to pull the drums( I would do this anyway to check the condition of the bearings) and see what may be the problem. For a 14 year old trailer, I would think the wheel cylinders are going to need to be replaced anyway.

Good thinking....and if the brakes do work after pulling the emergency lever, go forward with adding the fluid?
 

bruceb58

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If the brake fluid reservoir is dry, you have a leak somewhere. As long as the brake luid is above the bottom of the mater cylinder reervoir you can do your test.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If the brake fluid reservoir is dry, you have a leak somewhere. As long as the brake luid is above the bottom of the mater cylinder reervoir you can do your test.

The trailer has probably been sitting for the last 5yrs without being used much at all, the boat was stored in a boat house on the lake. Surely the brake fluid has not been checked. Of course there could be a leak somewhere, but I'm betting just the amount of time its sat is the culprit and the fluid just dried up.

I'm going to do the E brake test first...if that works I'll clear the lines, add fluid and see what happens.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If there is no fluid at all in the reservoir, the test will tell you nothing. There has to be some in there.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

If there is no fluid at all in the reservoir, the test will tell you nothing. There has to be some in there.

Oh ok..I was thinking the E braked worked like a car E brake, in that it was controlled by a cable, not the brake fluid. If thats not the case, then of course that test will show me nothing without fluid in the reservoir.

Sounds like in my case, the first move is clean out the reservoir, clear the lines, add fluid and try and bleed them...then go from there.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

I agree. What the lever does is pushes the pin into the master cylinder, just as it would normally as you stop.
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

I agree. What the lever does is pushes the pin into the master cylinder, just as it would normally as you stop.

Ok great..thanks for your help.
 

captharv

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

This is what I would do if it was mine, based on 40+ years of trailering boats between 14 and 28'.
The master cylinder, by virtue of having rust on the inside, as you said, needs replacing. They can be rebuilt depending on how rusted and the availibility of the parts (kit).
Steel lines are always a P.I.T.A. I would replce all with the newer style nylon lines. They should last 15-20 years. And, not being steel, they CAN'T rust. Use care when tightening them, They are not as strong as the steel fitings; they are brass. Using a gorilla grip can split the fitting and it will leak.
Wheel cylinders. Most likely OK. Since the trailer was not used, there was no water being pumped into them.
The brakes themselves. I would pull the wheels/hub/drum assemblies, inspect and repack the bearings.
Fluids. non-synthetic brake fluid is hydrogopic. That means it absorbs water (or water vaopr). Moreover, the water mixes wit it. This is what rusts the innards of a brake system. The are also rated for higher temperature operation, meaning it don't boil at temperatures which the old one would. And, it isn't a lot more money for it.

Once you bleed the system, close all the bleeder screws, and pull the breakaway cable to put pressure on the system. Leave it that way for 5 minutes. If the piston in the master retracts, you have a leak. The you can look for it by eye.
 

Bifflefan

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

I didn't think so.....I figured if moisture got in there it would eventually break down and evaporate. Hopefully the lines are clear and I can blow them out..get some new fluid in there and see where we are at.

if your so smart then why are you asking questions???
You all ready know everything i guess...
 

MTribe08

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Re: Reconditioning drum brakes on trailer

if your so smart then why are you asking questions???
You all ready know everything i guess...


Actually I am pretty smart......However,I guess I missed the memo that said I'm unable to ask questions because of it.

Now go climb back in your hole if having nothing to add to my thread.
 
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