*update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Turn4fun

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Couple of things to check. First, verify that the control box is not in the neutral warm up position. If you are using the original Chrysler control then it is a silver knob just behind the control arm. Make sure it is pushed in all the way or else only the throttle cable will move when you move the arm. If you are using an aftermarket control like I am then it may be different. In my case there is no knob but the arm itself pulls out to disengage the shift function.

If the control box does not appear to be the problem then go back and look at the engine. On the starboard side below the fuel pump is where the shift cable terminates. Make sure the cable end fitting has not popped off from the ball socket. If this is OK then follow the cable forward to where it attaches to the pivot plate. Make sure the swivel clasp is secure around the cable. There is a groove on the end of the cable where the plastic part ends. The swivel clasp must go around the cable right at this groove.

If all of that looks OK then have someone move the control arm while you watch the cable end at the engine. Does the shift cable move and does the pivot plate move? If yes then skip to next paragraph. If not then your problem could indeed be inside the control box, most likely the cable end has come off, OR the cable has a break somewhere. I have an evinrude with the same problem. The outer sheath of the cable broke but the inner part is intact so when you shift the sheath slides back and forth but the inner part does not move.

If the cable seemed fine and the pivot plate was moving, then do this: Put the control arm in the forward position. Now turn the flywheel by hand while watching the prop. Do this in both the forward and reverse positions. If the prop does not turn with the engine in either, or both positions, then your shift cable is out of adjustment. Correcting this basically amounts to popping the cable end off from the ball socket and threading it in or out.

If adjustment seems fine and prop turns in both forward and reverse positions, then the next step is to put it in gear and either wedge the flywheel or have someone hold it with a wrench while you try to turn the prop by hand. If you can turn the prop by hand without turning the engine then your prop hub is spun and needs to be replaced.
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Turn4fun:
Thanks for the info - I will post my findings!

FrankA / zorak: Thanks for the info on the water intake location and possible remedies to my prop issue!
 

zorak

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Keep the faith amigo.We will try to help as much as possible.On the upside though if you stay with this motor, get it fixed up and keep it maintained you will have a real nice motor.Mine ran like a top for several years with minimal maintainence till i sold it.I pulled many a much nicer and newer boat back to the dock because they were having engine trouble.I think Turn4fun and Frank might have some good ideas to help you out .I will keep up with whats going on and chime in if i have something useful to add.
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

ok, got the motor running good (did the carb and fuel pump rebuild)... however, prop still not spinning all the time.
With motor turned off, in neutral, prop spins freely both directions.
With throttle in forward, prop still spins freely both directions w/o any hangups or ticking or anything.
With throttle in reverse, prop still spins freely in both directions w/o any hungups or ticking ot anything.
Now what? Will take off prop today and inspect to see if the hub is spun or (God forbid) the forward/reverse gears are chewed up! :(

How do you test to see if the gears are shot? I know of the test to check for spun prop, but what about gear test?

Thanks!
 

Frank Acampora

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Remove the lower unit and see if the lower shift rod is stuck in the seal or if silt has accumulated around it and is preventing it from moving. These engines do not have a drain hole in the front cavity of the lower unit. Silt accumulates there over the course of years and eventually hardens to a cement like substance which effectively prevents shifting.

There is enough compliance (many bends in the shift rods and slop in the cables) in the system that you will be able to move the control handle, even though the shift rod will not move.
 

Turn4fun

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

I don't think you have a spun hub. You said that the prop spins freely no matter what gear position it is in. Typically with a spun hub the prop is still gonna turn with the shaft until it gets some resistance. So if it's out of the water and spinning freely I'm more inclined to say it's not going into gear at all.

Have you or anyone else ever undone the pivot screw on the lower unit located just ahead of the drain plug? If that screw is removed the carrier drops down and the little brass dog that rides on the shift shaft falls off. Sure, you can fish around with a screwdriver and get it lined up again so the screw goes back in, but if that dog fell off it ain't gonna shift. Perhaps the previous owner did it while trying to change the gear oil and thought they broke it and thats why they sold it. If thats the case, it's an easy fix but requires removing and disassembling the lower unit.

BTW, I don't think your gears are stripped either. If they were you would be hearing all kinds of grinding and crunching.
 

zorak

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

We on the up side those lower units are pretty simple to work on and turn4fun is right about that screw as i did that one myself.i am also thinking that the shifter dog isn't right as i dont think that it would turn as freely as you say it does.
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

ARRGGHHH!!!!

preface: would I be considered a sissy if I just threw in the towel and took the boat/motor over to the one and only marina in town for them to look over and get it running right?

All your suggestions have been VERY HELPFUL and it's all starting to make more sense to me, but in light of summer slipping away into fall, and not having enough free time to "work" on my forst boat/motor, I am inclined to just take it over to the marina and have them get it running! Kids have been very patient with me so far, and I want to take them out a few times before fall is up. If I knew I have more time on my hands, I would get it figured out, especially w/ all your "experience and advice and guidance"... as it is, I know it is close to being solved! Arrgghh...

BUT, I am going to launch it one more time today to see if works... if not, time to lighten the wallet! :(

P.S. anyone know of anyone in Lansing, MI who could lend some hands on experience? :)
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

HAHA!!!

Ok, I am back to my senses after I got a call back from the marina after paying $125 for diagnostic fees = $570-590 to fix a dropped/missing/broken gear shift pin (or something to that affect) = cost of replacing part, gaskets/seals and taking it apart and putting it back together!

On my way to being it back home to try and save a buck or two and do it myself!

Hence, any pointers as to how to do this? I am a visual person, so if anyone has real pics or exploded view pics of the parts/lower unit, that would be very very hepful. I do have a CD version of the Chrysler manual, but some scans = low rez/fuzzy.

As much as I didn't want to rip into the motor/LU myself, time to face up and dig into it like a man! :)

Thanks peeps!

P.S. What seals/gaskets am I going to need (or direct me to which website stocks them)?
 

zorak

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

If memory servs me correctly it goes something like this.remove the lower unit,remove water pump,remove driveshaft.i think the pinion gear comes out with driveshaft. Pull the prop ,then remove 2 allen bolts holding lower unit cover and remove lower unit cover.you should then be able to pull the prop shaft out.You will see the lever.it should still be attached to the shaft.if it is there and undamaged just hold it in the correct place and run the screw back thru it .If it is still attacled to the lower unit housing then the brass shifter dog fell off when the pivot screw was removed.It rides on the prop shaft between the 2 sets of gears .its kind of tricky to keep it all together but i managed without a manual.slide the prop shaft assembly back into the housing with the ears on the shifted dog engaging the shifter pivot.Just pull the shift shaft in and out a couple of times before you assemble and you will see how it's supposed to work.Anybody out there please correct me if i am wrong.I would also replace the impeller as you will have it out when you fix the lower unit.
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

If memory servs me correctly it goes something like this.remove the lower unit,remove water pump,remove driveshaft.i think the pinion gear comes out with driveshaft. Pull the prop ,then remove 2 allen bolts holding lower unit cover and remove lower unit cover.you should then be able to pull the prop shaft out.You will see the lever.it should still be attached to the shaft.if it is there and undamaged just hold it in the correct place and run the screw back thru it .If it is still attacled to the lower unit housing then the brass shifter dog fell off when the pivot screw was removed.It rides on the prop shaft between the 2 sets of gears .its kind of tricky to keep it all together but i managed without a manual.slide the prop shaft assembly back into the housing with the ears on the shifted dog engaging the shifter pivot.Just pull the shift shaft in and out a couple of times before you assemble and you will see how it's supposed to work.Anybody out there please correct me if i am wrong.I would also replace the impeller as you will have it out when you fix the lower unit.

what seals and gaskets did you use? part #s? Thank you Zorak! :)
 

zorak

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

I dont remember part #'s as it was a long time ago.As i recall i replaced the oil seal between water pump and lower unit plus new water pump housing driveshaft seal.Forgive my foggy memory.the lower unit is in 2 parts.there is a gasket between the 2 halves that will need to be replaced as well.A word of caution here,the gasket is very thin and requires sealer.The recommended sealer ( in the manual i had ) was petroleum based.So is the lower unit oil.after 3 seasons the oil washed the sealer out and i had water intrude into 2 empty cavities in the lower unit (i checked the oil and didn't see any water ).The lower unit cracked on the outside and it distorted the inside of the lower unit which caused gear alignment problems.i have tried to look up a diagram for this particular lower unit as i no longer have the manual.One of the reasons i sold my chrysler is parts were getting hard to find.the parts i did buy came from mercury quicksilver/mercury.you might consider filling those 2 empty cavities with silicone or something to displace any water that might collect.i will keep looking for info and parts
 

TireFryer

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Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Re: 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... got it STARTED! runs rough @ throttle...?

Remove the lower unit and see if the lower shift rod is stuck in the seal or if silt has accumulated around it and is preventing it from moving. These engines do not have a drain hole in the front cavity of the lower unit. Silt accumulates there over the course of years and eventually hardens to a cement like substance which effectively prevents shifting.

There is enough compliance (many bends in the shift rods and slop in the cables) in the system that you will be able to move the control handle, even though the shift rod will not move.

WE HAVE A WINNER!!! :D

Took apart the lower unit (2-piece) last night and everything went great till I got to the point where I was trying to separate the two halves... it would NOT budge! Used a soft headed rubber mallet to gently get the halves apart, but could only go so far. Once I could get the prop shaft and gears out, I also unscrewed the pivot screw and the gear case came off :) Alas, the shift rod was FIRMLY cemented in the oil seal!!!

took 45 min of slowly rotating the rod, digging out the silt/cement and using penetrating oil to finally get the shift rod out! There must have been about 2-2.5" of silt in that cavity! Even the lil' drain hole was cemented shut! Took another 20 min to get the silt dislodged and cleaned out... not to order parts to put back together!

One thing of interest, and someone please chime in here: I unscrewed the lock nut and the 2" "coupling" nut behind the leg covers to separate the shift rod to be able to drop the LU... Once dropped, noticed that the shift rod IN the LU was "2-piece" shift rod = there was another lock nut and 2" "coupling" nut keeping shift rod in one piece...eh? :confused: Thoughts?

Also, the brass/copper water tube came out with the LU instead of staying w/ the upper, as per SELOC manual... is there a receptacle into which the top of the water tube fit into, or does it just kinda hang out arbitrarily in the upper unit, being held in place only by the grommet on the water pump housing?

Impeller was SHOT = being replaced!

Finally, what I found interesting was that the ONLY gasket I saw was the one between the gear case (where the prop shaft is) and the lower unit (where the water pump housing is)... no gasket under the plate in the water housing!?!?

Again, thank you to everyone for their thoughts and help, info and advice! Love this forum!

pics gallery: http://yfrog.com/5ap1010091icijx
 

zorak

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Ok.Impeller is definetly shot.water pump tube i think sticks into a plastic piece similar to the one on top of the water pump.My motor didn't have a gasket between the pump housing and the lower unit and my shift shaft was 2 pieces.also the oil seal between the impeller and gearcase looks shot as well.When you reassemble you might have to fiddle with the gear**** shaft length on the upper rod coupling to ensure that it completely shifts into forward and reverse( not too hard with the side covers off that is ).Still haven't had time to come up with a parts supplier,my dog's been sick and i ain't gettin too much sleep.
 

TireFryer

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

anyone have pics (or exploded view) of the section where the water tube is supposed to fit under the powerhead? Trying to get it back on w/o having to pull the powerhead if I don't have to!

What's the orientation of the tube... does the initial bend on the water tube (where it sits in the water pump housing) bend TOWARDS or AWAY from the driveshaft?

Thanks!
 

zorak

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

you shold be able to look up into the housing and see the location of the water intake location relative to the drive shaft output to determine that.I would think it would only go one of 2 ways.
 

TireFryer

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

ok, gaskets and seals have arrived... do I need to degrease and make the mating surfaces squeaky clean prior to putting on the gasket b/w gear case and the mid-section LU? Also, do I need to use RTV sealant w/ this gasket (a VERY THIN layer of RTV)?
Thank you :)
 

TireFryer

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

ok, I have the Quicksilver Seal kit# 26-820645A-1 which contains 10 items... trying to figure out where all these go?
1) shift rod seal = good to go
2) prop shaft seal = good to go
3) Driveshaft seal = good to go
4/5) (2) washers for vent/fill screws
6) small o-ring for shift pivot screw?
7) large o-ring for prop shaft, goes on after the prop is intalled and prior to prop nut?
8) med o-ring for??? (thinking this is for a diff variation of mid section which needs an o-ring on the forward stud??)
9 & 10) one of these go on the bearing carrier and the other???? (thinking this is for a diff variation of the midsection which needs an o-ring to seal the 2 parts of the LU together??)

While I am here, how do I remove the driveshaft seal from the mid-section of the LU? Prop shaft seal from bearing carrier? Any tips/advice/info = greatly appreciated! :)

thanks :)
 

zorak

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Anybody else feel free to chime in if i am wrong here.I thought the pivot shaft screw used a plastic washer similar to the vent & fill screws.As fas as the LU to midsection seal i would use a tiny amount of RTV silicone on that one.My manual stated to use indian head sealer ( the old brown stuff similar to permatex we used in the early 80's) however the LU grease broke this down.As far as the driveshaft seal between the water pump housing and the lower unit ,i just used a fairly large flathead screwdriver and just levered it out taking care not to scratch or gouge the seal bore.I may be using the wrong terminology but the part that you removed the 2 allen bolts from .i will call it the prop shaft carrier ( has the prop shat seal on the inside ) used a large o-ring to seal it to the lower unit.Just make sure that when you replace that part ,it is rather difficult to get it to pull into the LU housing.You can use 2 longer bolts to help pull it in.Just make sure they are longer as you might strip the threads as i did because there weren't enough threads engaged to pull the carrier back into the LU.Also make sure the longer bolts don't bottom out and strip the treads.Just go slow and lube the o-ring with vaseline or a small amount of grease.
 

TireFryer

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Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Re: *update 9/3* 1969 Chrysler 55hp Model 5555... silt "cemented" my shift rod in LU!

Zorak: Thanks a bunch!!! Will try and get it put back together tonight... the ONLY stickler is going to be trying to get the water line to go into place into the power head... don't want to take off the powerhead if I don't HAVE to!
 
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