Re: Mooring in the salt
One trip, one day, one hour is all it takes for salt to start doing its damage. Its hard to get salt out of all the little areas it seems to get into.
Instead of just treating AFTER you put it in salt water---treat it before you put it in salt water. Coat the engine (exterior) and bilge area metals with quality corrosion preventatives. Treat as much as possible all of the components that could rust and corrode. Spray with something like Corrosion Block, ACF 50, or WD40 which does not solidify to any degree. Second step treat it with one of the corrosion blockers like Boeing T9 that become a more viscous, like a wax film. The more viscous like products provide a barrier to try to keep the thinner fluid products from washing away. Also the more viscous corrosion preventatives don't work their way down deep into the smaller cracks and openings as well, that's why its the second step. Retreat the areas occasionally (after a good wash down and drying time).
Stay away from spraying wires or wire insulation including spark plug boots. My Yamaha's spark plug boots swelled and I had to use pull ties to snug the boots back around the porcelain insulators. Obviously don't treat pivoting or sliding linkages with the viscous preventatives. After many years of Florida salt water boating using this technique---its paid off.
