vro2 pump

[jtcarter]

I have a 1995 175 evinrude intruder. I've been told i can't convert to just a regular fuel pump by one mechanic and that i can by another. I have a fuel restriction or a weak fuel pump. I Did the vaccum test earlier this week. On the fuel line to pump test at WOT it showed at reading somewhere between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 (erratic would jump up to almost third notch then fall back off). I say that because the spaces between the 0 and five are not equal, its four spaces.The tester read right at the first notch on the vaccum side of the tester at idle speed. It never got above four at wot. Which supposedly is good.

On the fuel pump to carb test the psi reading at wot was in between 5-7 most of the time. It was kinda erractic though. But if less than 3 psi then that is supposed to be bad.

Anyway i went out today, lean sneeze as usual. I got my air mixture screws out probably two turns past spec. I went to the primer bulb pumped primer and got the lean sneeze out of it. I have my primer bulb pointing straight up to ensure the check valve stays closed, doesn't matter. I tried to check the pickup tube for trash and apparently no one has ever took it out.It threads down in a female fitting that is secured at the top of the tank with a large nut. Anyway i can't get it off without the whole thing twisting. I could take the nutt off and hold it. But run the risk of stripping the threads and never being able to put the nut back on. I may try blowing it out with air.

As if that isn't enough i believe the new gearcase i just had rebuilt is leaking water into it. I think i might have already screwed up my brand new gear set i just had put in. Another month setting around his shop unitl he finally gets to it. This fishing season has been a bummer. I can't even concentrate on fishing for thinking about how to fix my lemonrude. Next year its mercury pro xs for me please.

Something i forgot to mention. When i was priming getting the lean sneeze out. The primer would click after i started pumping the primer bulb. Something is causing it to lose prime . Sometimes you have to set with it and repeatedly prime it. But after you do the sneeze goes away. I know its a restriction but is it weak pump or fuel pickup tube? Needle vavles in all carbs close when you pump bulb no gas in carb throats. No anti siphon valve at tank either.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: vro2 pump

are you sure the vent is clear on the tank?

 

[jtcarter]

Re: vro2 pump

are you sure the vent is clear on the tank?

Yeah i did. I think i'll go to walmart and buy a small gastank and try running it. I blew through the vent and no restriction. I'am thinking at this point the air diaphragm in the vro has a rip in it or my fuel tank has trash on the pickup tube. Like i said though i can't get it out without possibly screwing up the threads on the large nutt that holds the tank fitting in place. I'd say that no one has ever took it out. Its tight in there. I was thinking of using a air compressor and try blowing air through the pickup tube.

 

[ezeke]

Re: vro2 pump

To start with, you don't or shouldn't have a VRO2 since they were discontinued after 1992. Your pump should be an OMS.

The pump just fills the float bowls, and does not pump fuel into the engine, the pistons pull the fuel from the float bowls through the carburetors.

Your sneezing problem sounds like an air leak in the fuel system, but could also be a blocked jet in the carburetors. If the tank is the problem or part of it, the primer bulb should collapse after running the engine for a short while.

If you convert to conventional fuel (lift) pumps, you would require two in tandem to supply enough fuel and it would still not be as good a premix pump as what you have.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: vro2 pump

i have to agree.

 

[jtcarter]

Re: vro2 pump

Oms pump then. I've blown compressed air and carb cleaner through the interment jets number 40 by the way. The carbs are plastic so soaking isn't a option. I've rebuilt the carbs with new kits. If its a air leak i can't find it. I did move my primer closer to the motor. Where i spliced it i put a see through platic inline filter just to watch how the fuel comes from the tank. It trickles through there and leaves the filter about half full. I'am thinking thats normal. New omc primer bulb. It doesn't suck it shut so vent is working. It does go simi soft but it will never be fully hard all the time i'am told. If its a air leak i don't know were it is. I've mixed up some dishwashing detergent in a hand sprayer and i sprayed the pickup tube fitting,all fittings leading up to the oms pump. I'am stumped. I guess i could take out those jets and spray carb cleaner into the carbs again. But i've done that before. Kinda feel like i'am banging my head into a brick wall. Of course the wall doesn't move.

 

[jtcarter]

Re: vro2 pump

Something else. When i first got this motor. This problem was present after it got warmer. Had no problem with it in late march early april. The fuel bowls were leaking fuel. A supposed omc mechanic told me when i had the bowls off for my carb rebuild to take them flip them upside down and see how much warp was there. Then take a piece of sandpaper and make a figure eight with it until it was flat on the table with no gaps all the way round. Well i did that. I have since taken them back off to see if the the gasket on the needle and seat housing was being depressed. They all had a depression in them. I thought that maybe since there was a degree of warp to begin with that maybe they weren't sealing well. But there was a impression in everyone of them. Could it be possible that they still aren't sealing very well and this could be the source of my air leak?

Another thing. I have ran a compression test on it both warm and when its cold. Cold the readings are as followed 1)99 2)99 3)95 4)95 5)92 6)92. The warm test showed them all right at 90lbs. Sounds low but my tester is over ten years old.

This deal is just killing me. I'am about ready to wave the white flag.

 

[ezeke]

Re: vro2 pump

If the bowls don't seal or if there is any fuel leaking, when the engine starts the vacuum will pull air in.

I think that the factory replacement bowls are aluminum. It is a bit expensive to replace them, but your motor has a fine engine and it would be worth the upgrade to me if it were mine. Check with a dealer on the aluminum bowls: http://dealerlocator.evinrude.com/en/410000.shtml

The compression is all right. Test your recirculation check valves after your annual decarb; if they get clogged up, soak them in SeaFoam or replace them.

 

[jtcarter]

Re: vro2 pump

Well after i sanded them there are no visible leaks on the outside of the bowls. That trick did the job on sealing them from the outside. The center gasket on the bowls is the only one that could be leaking. But i removed them and there was a depression in it on all of them. But who knows it may not be sealing it completely. I will check the price for the upgraded bowls. What is a good way to check those recirculate check valves? I've been meaning to change the recirculate lines anyway. I haven't done a decarb on the motor. It's probably due one. I have no history on the motor except for the time its been in my possession which has only been about four months.