Eagle Fisheasy II Hard Mount

[Grant Brown]

I have an eagle Fisheasy II with grey connectors. It is the type that uses 8 - "D" size flashlight batteries and can be moved from boat to boat. I have it installed semi permanently in my runabout (the transducer is already hard mounted) so I have no need for it to be portable. I would like to run it directly off my boat batteries so I don't have to worry about the "D" cells going dead all the time.
The batteries are 1.5 v in series which gives me 12v (8 x 1.5 = 12).
Is it as simple as running a power wire directly to the unit?
What size fuse should I install?

Thanks,
Grant

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Eagle Fisheasy II Hard Mount

If your boat battery is charged from the engine you may have an over voltage condition with the locator. Engine electrical systems can run at well over 14 volts. I don't think the battery operated unit will have the necessary over voltage protection. That said, you can certainly try it. It will work from the battery but I would not leave it on when the engine is running.

 

[John_S]

Re: Eagle Fisheasy II Hard Mount

Contact Eagle, but I wouldn't be surprised if it does have over and under voltage protection. Does it have a mode to monitor supply voltage? If so, when running high you can turn lights on to drop the voltage down. Not much use if you can't read depth when engine running.

A 1 amp fuse inline is usually what is recommended.

Are your 8 D-cells configured in holders that replace two lantern batteries?
I recently switched my Humminbird portables to SLA (Sealed Lead-Acid) batteries and a low amp smart charger. They are 6V 5AH lantern battery replacements. Supposidly should last the equivelent of standard lantern battery before recharge. I have only had them out once for a 7 hour drift trip. The 400TX was still going fine, but didn't check voltage before putting on charger. Need more hours on them before I can recommend them.

I also have used 12V lawn tractor or motorcycle batteries, to power the depth finder. It was fitted inside a plastic detergent bottle. Needs to be bungied to the side of a seat, such that it doesn't tip over.

 

[Grant Brown]

Re: Eagle Fisheasy II Hard Mount

Thanks for the input. I'll contact Eagle but they've always just told me to go and buy a new fish finder as they don't offer support for a discontinued model.
With that attitude I WON"T be buying an Eagle again any time soon. I suppose it won't hurt to give them one last try to redeem themselves...

The batteries clip into a plastic holder that has 4 sets of 2 batteries each. I use NIMH rechargeable units but it's just a PITA remembering to have them charged and installed along with everything else I need to bring.

The unit I have appears identical to the units they sold that were intended for fixed mounting. From a production standpoint I doubt they would have over/under voltage protection on one and not the other. It looked like the only difference was that mine had a carrying case for the batteries that the unit mounts to and the others had a dash mount.

Thanks again,
Grant

 

[John_S]

Re: Eagle Fisheasy II Hard Mount

You probably have it, but here is owners manual: http://www.eaglenav.com/upload/Eagle/Documents/Manuals/fisheasy2_0143-641_091902.pdf

Input power:................... 10 to 17 volts DC.
Current drain: ............... 300 ma lights off; 400 ma lights on.
3-amp fuse

This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the
power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the
wires are attached correctly.

----

While it appears to be relatively modern by its features, I did not see a way to monitor voltage. I think you should be fine to test it out given its stated voltage range. The warning that Silvertip is discussing, applies to outboards that charge via field coil vs alternator. Also, since you mentioned batteries, if you are running on a seperate one from starting it will be fine.

I am a little surprised that they recommend a 3 amp fuse. Based on current draw a 1 amp should be fine. I wouldn't think it would have excessive inrush current at power on to blow a 1 amp. I'd try the 1 amp, and if it popped, go to the recommended 3 amp.

The battery packs you describe will not work with lantern style batteries.