decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

[sparky71]

Hello again,
I've got a 1983 baja 190TC mcm 260 ser#6356454 alpha 1(I believe).
My question is about lower shift cable replacement,I've decided to do the job myself.Not only because of the cost the boat shop is going to charge$400+,but because I want some experience with removing the drive so I can be more comfortable in the future about doing my own maint. or if I have any problems in the future.I have a full range of tools and a shop to work at but the outdrive is a little intimidating cause of the lack of experience in dealing with them.Hopefully this thinking doesn't come back and bite me.
I have my engine ser# but have no way reading the drive #'s.I posted pics on here before with this question and was told I have an alpha 1(Dons).
When I look around at parts lists I see that '83 seems to be the 1st year of a diff part,how do I decide?something about "aft entry" and having to re-tap from inside bellhousing.
I've done alot of reading on this subject and printed out some good info but a link to the oem seems to be eluding me and I think would be very helpful.
Thanks in advance you guys have been great in helping me get this old boat seaworthy + safe
Dan

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

It's actually an R drive, not an Alpha I. Basically the same thing.
Here is the online manual for your drive.
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf

To find out which cable you have, the easiest way is to pull the drive and look at the cable and see which side the nut is on. But the best thing to do is get the proper straight thread tap and use the new style OEM shift cable. The cable has a teflon coating on the inner cable for longer life and smoother operation and it only costs a few bucks more.

The drive removal itself is the easy part, put it in forward, remove the aft trim ram pin, remove 6 nuts and pull it off.

You do want to inspect the gimbal bearing, and ujoints, and see if there is any gear lube in the bellows or even worse, gear lube and water.

You might even want to consider all new bellows if you don't know the age of the one currenty on the boat. They should be replaced every 5 or 6 years just to prevent expensive failures.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Thank's Don,
these are the part#'s sierra 62225577 for cable kit
sierra (rep. merc #27-94996a1)
hope these are right I'm ordering today.
I have another question which may be fixed with the cable replacement ,but I have spun prop hub symtoms, from what I've read,as well is getting a new prop and puttin it on better/the same as getting mine re-hubbed?

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Did you read what I said about the shift cable? Get the Merc cable, not sierra.

use the new style OEM shift cable. The cable has a teflon coating on the inner cable for longer life and smoother operation and it only costs a few bucks more.

The shift cable kit from Merc is part number 865436A03 and costs about $80.
It includes the shift cable bellows and the gasket kit to reinstall the outdrive.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Thanks again Don, that is the part I will buy.

I have read a little about upper shift shaft seal "upgrade".I would like to change this as well I found this:
bell housing bushing update kit
18-2622 rep. merc.part# 23-805041A2
Is this the correct part?
also do I need to post that prop question in another forum?

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

It's best to post prop questions in the Prop Questions and Topics forum, that's what it's there for.

No, that part # is for an Alpha I Gen II outdrive, you need a 23-806036A 1 bushing for yours.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Don I am by no means questioning your knowledge(which obviously is considerable),but when I search that part # it keeps coming up as gen. 2.I believe I have an "r" drive.
Is it the same?please have patience I want to get this right...
thanks again

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/2203/60.cfm

NOTE: Merc doesn't use the prefix numbers anymore. So the new number just drops the 23-

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Beautiful ,thanks Don...
Well I removed the drive and have to say my apprehension of taking on this project is fading quickly!came off like abreeze...just as everyone here has explained.Started to rain so I had to close up shop for the night.
I've been looking at the special tools required ordered the shift cable removal tool. I've been going off the oem manual since I got it,there is no mention of the crimp tool to crimp the small end seal on the cable bellows.My seloc man. says to make one.Is there atool part # for that.I bought a crappy set of pliers and a 3/4 nut,but wonder how good this will work?obviously it's very important to get this sealed right.
Good news everything inside looks good u-joints,bellows the splines did not hve much grease on them anything else I should be looking at?

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

My seloc man. says to make one.

First of all, throw that POS Seloc manual away. Use the OEM manual I gave you a link to earlier. If you are going to do the job, might as well do it right.

I don't even use those metal clamps. They usually rust off anyway. Go to your local Mercury dealer and get some special fuel line wire ties. They have an end on them that goes around that bellows perfectly. And they don't rust.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

I probably should have read your earlier post before but...

I let the gear lube out of the (let sit for 3 hrs)nothing coming out.Proceeded with instr. for drive removal (oem man. from you don)when it started to come out a pretty good amount of gear lube poured out.It's funny I did a search of that topic and this current thread of mine came up 1st(I know I'm an idiot lol).
So is the drive junk?How do I pressure test?

 

[Fishermark]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

I let the gear lube out of the (let sit for 3 hrs)nothing coming out.


Proceeded with instr. for drive removal (oem man. from you don)when it started to come out a pretty good amount of gear lube poured out.

Do you mean you removed the lower drain plug for the outdrive lube and very little oil came out? Then when you removed the drive, there was a lot of oil in the drive bellows area? If that is the case, then yes, your drive is leaking.

Is it toast? Maybe, maybe not. How did the oil look that came out from the drain plug?

(By the way, did you also remove the top vent plug when you drained it? If not, it may have simply developed a vacuum and did not drain completely. But if it is in the drive bellows, then it is definately leaking).

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Yes I removed both plugs had it trimmed down and alot more lube came out when draining the drive than when I removed it...
I would say maybe 1/4 quart(took 1 1/2 Q to fill it,normal?)when the drive started coming out,I stopped let it stop dripping and then pulled it the rest of the way out.
I looked up the part#26-823894??small o-ring
where in the man. is that?

 

[Fishermark]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Yes I removed both plugs had it trimmed down and alot more lube came out when draining the drive than when I removed it...

I'm not sure what you mean by that?

when the drive started coming out,I stopped let it stop dripping and then pulled it the rest of the way out.

So.... more oil came out of the drain hole? If so, I wouldn't worry about a thing. Sounds like the oil was trapped somehow - drive not completely vertical.... needed to be burped... many possibilities I suppose.

I looked up the part#26-823894??small o-ring
where in the man. is that?

I din'nt look the part number up, but it sounds like you are describing the "quad ring" which seals the oil passage between the upper and lower units.

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

That part# you asked about is the front oil seal, not an oring, but Don't start ordering parts till you know what parts you are going to need. You are going to need to pull the double bearing assembly out of the upper and remove the yoke. It probably has a groove worn in it and needs replaced also. You have to do this to replace the seal, so you might as well find all the parts you will need before ordering anything. If you replace the yoke, you will need ujoints also. No way are you going to take them apart and get them back together the same way. There is also the oring that goes in front of the double bearings, and you should always use a new nylock when resetting the rolling torque. Plus, you might as well get a water pump impeller and gasket set to install as long as you are this far apart.

Isn't this fun ?????

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

No I' m sorry for the confusion Fishermark,
What i meant was,I removd the vent n the drain/fill plug...lots of lube came out ,let sit for 3 hrs went back out nothin comin out.
Put in fwd n started to remove the drive 6 nuts little bit of pulling started to come and about 1/4 q lube came out,of housing area...not drain hole.
I did asearch and I guess this is not good!

My qustion is where in the merc. man.,I have #6, is it?

I believe I've seen "input shaft seal"referenced with these symptoms.
Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Fishermark]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Yes, once it starts leaking I always take it in and let a shop do the work. I'm "handy" but don't have the specialized tools for outdrive repair.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

Well I knew there had to be a catch somwhere!!!
I only paid 1500.00 for the boat so I wont complain to much about costs(maybe a little).
Don thanks for all your time.Does this sound like one of those "by the time your done fixing you could buy a new drive" type of deals?I'd rather not.

If not I have the time and the patience to do this.I guess there probably a long list of parts I will need.I said I wanted some experience with these drives I guess I'm going to get it.

 

[Don S]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

.Does this sound like one of those "by the time your done fixing you could buy a new drive" type of deals?

Before I would give up on it, I would pull the double bearings out of it and inspect them. Does the bearing turn very smooth no sticky spots, are the bearing sufaces smooth, how does the gear surfaces look. If they are good, just fix the leak go on. Since you don't have tools either, you might want to take it to a Merc dealer and have the upper inspected. IF it's ok why replace it. Besides, it doesn't take long to pull the upper and let them take it apart and inspect if you are unsure of your abilities. If you want to inspect the bearings, all you will need for special tools at this point is the spanner. But you would have needed it if only replacing the seal.

PS: Look at section 3A of the manual.

 

[sparky71]

Re: decided to do it myself...lower shift cable

I do have the tools and a full mechanic shop to work out of.
Ok so pg. 3A-10 which #'s are the seals I am looking at?Assuming all is ok with the tests you described in your last post.
Before I bought the boat ,end of fall,the gimbal bearing all bellows, impeller were changed less than 1 yr..Wouldn't you think tech would have noticed this?Or is there a certain "action" that will cause these to fail.