Re: possibly Silvertip
This going to be more fun than I anticipated. Thanks JB and RNDN for actualy going along with this and providing your thoughts on a solution, both of which I also thought of and dismissed. I will also explain why AMPS ain't always the AMPS you are thinking they are.
First, all of the trolling motor plugs and receptacles on iBoats and other sites fall into two categories. 1) they are either panel mounted so the receptacle protrudes in back or 2) they are of the "extension cord" concept. Since there are no compartments up front to mount a receptacle in that solution is not valid unless I was to build something. The extension cord principle is not acceptable (at least to me) since its rolling around on the floor, getting stepped on and as such also not a good solution in this case. Mounting the receptacle on the console is certainly workable but again, you have a very long run of cable laying on the floor to trip over, walk on, and generally abuse.
I will show you my solution in a minute so stand by -- I need to address this AMPS business.
It is generally agreed that P (power or watts) = E (volts) x I (current or amps).
So: 120 Watts = 120V x 1A correct?
It then follows that 120 Watts = 12V x 10A correct?
It also follows that 2400 Watts = 120V x 20A correct again?
So it also follows that 2400 Watts = 12V x 200A.
Did it occur to you by now that we are dealing with a factor of 10 here.
Next time you pick up a replacement switch for an AC applicance check the side of it and you will likely see two ratings. One for 120VAC and another for 12V DC or some other DC value. That switch will be rated for at least a factor 6 times more current DC than AC so there is absolutely no problem running a 55# troller from a L5-20 or even an L5-15 twist lock connector.
Here's my solution: This is two short lengths of 2-inch PVC pipe connected by an elbow. A cap at the bottom is secured to the floor with STAINLESS screws (had to make that perfectly clear) and has a hole in it that carries 6 ga "MARINE CABLE" to the troller battery mounted six feet from the connector. That cable is also protected by plastic conduit below deck above the tube. The receptacle is indeed an L5-15. A cap protects the assembly when not in use. This setup is located about 2 feet from the motor.
Here is the guts of the assembly.
No cables on the floor, it's safe, and just so you know, take a real hard look at the trolling motor twist lock connectors. I think you will agree they have a strong resemblance to the L5-15 and L5-20 twist lock -- except because they are sold in marine stores they get to charge three times as much.
Thanks for playing along.
