'Rude 115 idle prob/miss

[danpolk]

I think I know what's going on but was wondering if you guys had any insight. Here's my symptoms (1982 115 Evinrude):

- uneven missing from idle through 2000 rpm (and probably above, but I don't run it faster than that unless it's in a tank or the water) on muffs.
- idle screw has no effect (unless you speed it up). If you slow it down, even after it shouldn't be idling, the engine keeps farting along at about 900 rpm. basically it runs like crap.
- the (new) primer bulb doesn't get firm
- there's always fuel in the bottom of the engine compartment and the lower carb is always wet on the outside
- most of the linkage seems way out of adjustment
- the fuel lines are all secured with zip ties (previous owner thing)
- compression is 120 on all cylinders

I've replaced plugs, and just ordered new wires, two carb rebuild kits with needles and seats and a fuel pump rebuild kit (not to mention proper spring hose clamps). I already have the "good" Evinrude repair & mtce manual.

My plan is to rebuild the carbs and pump, do a link & sync, and see if I can actually adjust the idle speed.

Am I on the right track?

--
Dan Polk
1982 16' Invader Runabout
115 Evinrude

 

[Cricket Too]

Re: 'Rude 115 idle prob/miss

Your definitely on the right track Dan. I'd say just from what you described that your biggest problem from the start is the top carb needle stuck open and that carb flooding out all over the place. That's why your primer isn't getting hard and why your not running right, your running 2 cylinders without fuel or very little fuel.

900 RPM isn't really too bad at idle in the water, but I'm assuming your on the muffs, so you'd like to see 1200 or so. Just so you know, it's not the best idea to rev the engine above 2K in neutral anywhere, even in the water or a tank, still no load on the engine in neutral even if it's in the water.

I'd start off with the carb rebuilds, but do it right and soak them to get everything clean, then rebuild them with the kits. Then see how it runs before you go through the trouble of pulling apart the fuel pump and doing a link and synch, or mess with the idle. Also don't adjust the idle on the muffs, you'll never get it right, only adjust in the water or a tank.

Also a good idea to replace the zip ties on the fuel lines, nothing is better than real clamps.

P.S. Welcome aboard Iboats.

 

[hoeser]

Re: 'Rude 115 idle prob/miss

Should be worth mentioning to take it easy on clamps with plastic parts. You can crush them. I am a fan of zip ties, when used correctly and when they are sufficiently tight they work just fine for fuel lines. I have a VRO system which is basically all plastic and I have no air leaks with zip ties.

 

[reeldutch]

Re: 'Rude 115 idle prob/miss

there are special zip ties for fuel hoses that are curved so the hose has an even tight clamp.
its ok to use those.

if they are the regular type electrical zipties do not use them on fuel hoses.
if they dont leak right now they will in the future.

any dealership should have them and there very inexspensive.

 

[danpolk]

Re: 'Rude 115 idle prob/miss

...Also don't adjust the idle on the muffs, you'll never get it right, only adjust in the water or a tank.

P.S. Welcome aboard Iboats.

Good point; I'd not thought about holding off on adjustments until I have it in the water. I'll do that. Thanks for the welcome! I'm very glad to have the resource.

--
Dan Polk