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  • #91
    It has snowed a couple of times this week, but the temps are too warm for it to accumulate much . . . just melts as it hits the ground. I'll be doing the summer layup work soon, I guess you could call it 'summerizing' which would be analogous to winterizing a boat.

    As I have been working on snowblowers over the past couple of years, which included both older and newer machines, I have wondered about the design changes over the years. Primarily, the most noticeable change (to me) has been in the chute that guides the snow on its journey off into where ever you want it to go.

    Older machines have shorter chutes that barely extend above the height of the engine, whereas newer machines have chutes that extend up to and even beyond the height of the handle bars. So, a modern-day machine may have a chute that is 50-100% longer than a machine from 25-30 years ago.

    I assume that the manufacturers have made this change for performance reasons. Many folks who have dabbled in machine modifications have come to realize the longer chutes do in fact result in the snow projecting significantly further than the same machine with a short chute.

    I'm sure there is some physics behind the phenomenon, but I have not found anything definitive that pinpoints the science. . . just wondering what it is about the longer chutes that contributes to the longer throwing distance

    Maybe it is compacting of the snow as it is contained in the chute for a longer distance/time so it becomes a better projectile ?

    Or maybe it is something else . . . just not sure
    Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

    Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
    Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
    Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

    My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

    Comment


    • #92
      I think the effect is that that the longer chutes creates/forms a much higher consolidation of the masses of particulates (snow flakes) into a tighter stream with more directed energy in a narrower path (as opposed fanning out). Similar to the selection on a garden hose nozzle of jet verses spray or using a shot gun with full choke to decrease the spread of the shot in order to gain better range and accuracy.........

      I'd bet that perhaps they could achieve the same effect if they could somehow narrow the stream of snow sooner along its path out, similar again to like a shot gun's choke like setup or garden spray nozzle but, using a longer chute perhaps gives the same result with only a slight bit more running fiction, so it works just as well with less cost of adding more junk......Just guessing though
      Last edited by sam am I; April 6th, 2018, 03:24 PM.

      Comment


      • #93
        Dusting off my thread from last year regarding snowblowers . . .

        I sold off 2 snowblowers from my 'fleet' of 5. I sold an Ariens ST824LE and a Husqvarna ST224, both for pretty decent $$$. So, now I'm down to 3 machines, which feels rather scant as compared to last year.

        My Toro PowerShift 824 (OHV) is going to be my primary machine, the Troy-Bilt 2410 will be its back-up . . . and I relegated the 'tricked out' Toro 521 to the summer house on Cape Cod.

        I wanted to put a headlight on the Toro 824 as it does have the electrical connector for a charging system. Similar to the challenges that I had last year, there is just one electrical lead coming out from under the cowl. I'm getting a somewhat odd looking sine wave from the connection, but it is about 30 volts peak-to-peak, so it should be able to run a decent LED utility light.

        I have an Optronics TLL30FB light in mind . . . haven't bought it yet, but it is a 12 volt @ 0.75 amp load. Based on my prior year's experience of tapping into the Briggs 305cc power system on my Troy-Bilt, I decided to see if I can get a full wave rectifier to work in the circuit instead of just a simple diode.

        My plan was/is to try to put in an isolating (i.e. 1:1) transformer and 'float' the secondary, then tie the '-' lead of the rectifier to chassis ground. I'm not sure this will work, so I thought I would post the schematic for comment.
        .
        Click image for larger version  Name:	ToroPSElect.png Views:	1 Size:	157.8 KB ID:	10685277
        .
        I had a spare 120v/12v transformer on hand, so I sacrificed its 'iron' to the cause and made my own isolating transformer with center tap on the secondary. I used 24 GA magnetic wire and did 175 turns on the primary and 175 turns (87/88) on the secondary windings, then re-assembled the iron and casing. I tried a couple configurations of the above schematic . . . 1 with grounding the center tap . . . and another with letting the whole secondary float, grounding only the '-' output of the rectifier.

        So far so good, as I'm getting 15 volts DC on my oscilloscope, yet my regular volt meter seems to think it is 30 volts DC

        I think my next step would be to put a decent load on the output and see if the voltage holds up, etc. Just wanted to see if any electrical guru's out there had any comment or ideas.

        I have no idea of what the spec'd power output of the engine's stator (generator) is . . . I have seen some spec'ed at 18 watts and others spec'd at 60 watts. I have a feeling this one is 18 watts, so my plan was to design to a 10 watt load.

        The engine is a 1999 vintage Tecumseh 318cc OHV (8 HP)

        Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

        Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
        Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
        Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

        My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

        Comment


        • #94
          Here are a couple of pictures of the transformer and components stuffed into an electronics box, which is about 3"x 4". I'll have to find a place to mount it on the blower. Next step is to order the headlamp . . .
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          No snow in the forecast yet, but it certainly has gotten cold enough around here. We did get 8" of snow on November 15th and it lasted for 2 weeks. The final few snow piles melted this past weekend

          Just another project to keep me busy during the winter months
          Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

          Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
          Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
          Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

          My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

          Comment


          • #95
            Originally posted by tpenfield View Post
            Dusting off my thread from last year regarding snowblowers . . .


            Hmmmm, not sure but, If I was going to add lights and wanted/required full wave rectification AND was stuck with a frame grounded/referenced stator winding, think I'd lean one of two ways(see below)......Be easy to add a active regulator to either if ya wanted as I'm not sure how much Vout is going to swing from idle through full rev un-reg'd?

            Might go from super dim to POOF!!

            Might blow out LED's if it deviates too much eh? Tungsten filament might withstand the higher Vout deviations better....

            Else and as a work around to active regulation AND with only using/wanting LED lighting, could always add a sealed lead acid batt, that'll hold/clamp Vout down as your xfmr will current limit/saturate roughly at a few amps and the batt will act as a pseudo reg if Vout states to exceed say 14-15 VDC ........

            Click image for larger version  Name:	snowblower.jpg Views:	1 Size:	244.0 KB ID:	10685536
            Last edited by sam am I; December 5th, 2018, 01:22 PM.

            Comment


            • #96
              Thanks for the ideas sam am I . I will see if the FW rectifier works and if not, try one of these designs.

              Question . . . where would I ground to in order to achieve the 'isolated' ground, since the stator is grounded to the engine/frame?

              BTW - I ordered the Optronics TLL30FB (12 volts @ 0.75 amp load). I think it needs 9.6 volts minimum to operate.
              Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

              Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
              Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
              Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

              My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

              Comment


              • #97
                Originally posted by tpenfield View Post
                Question . . . where would I ground to in order to achieve the 'isolated' ground, since the stator is grounded to the engine/frame?
                .
                Just follow the schematics (note the two types of grounds I have drawn, gnd #1 and #2 if you will), e.g., the primary side of your xfmr's low side is referenced/grounded (grd 1) to the blowers frame and obviously, the high side of your xfmr's primary side ties to the stator's AC output.........Anything on the secondary side (iso side) of your xfmr is and has its own ground (gnd #2/isolated gnd).You can just make a isolated ground buss bar if you like for anything that lives on that side.

                Running a xfmr and tying the two grounds together through either full wave rec configs and/or re-referenced with a bridge rec as in your original schematic above might work, not too sure but, looking at it (just by inspection only, haven't ran a spice simulation), I'm leaning towards its not going to, I think half the bridge is being shorted (or not conducting) out half the cycle and will require, as I've drawn/suggested, both grounds/returns directly reference their own sources and remain isolated from each other.
                Last edited by sam am I; December 5th, 2018, 03:07 PM.

                Comment


                • #98
                  Below are non-isolated (single point) ground simulations (Sorta kinda can give some insight, might just have to prototype as you have been to be extra sure)

                  The Center Tapped XFMR Full-Wave config non-iso ground (ground everything to same point) appears to behave.........Might be able to get away with single point ground here.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Full_Wave Center Tapped.jpg Views:	1 Size:	394.7 KB ID:	10685598

                  The Full-Wave Bridge XFMR config non-iso ground (ground everything to same point) appears to NOT behave, not sure whats going on.........As stated above, might just have to prototype as you have been to be extra sure if you're heart set on a full-wave bridge single point ground.



                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Full_Wave Bridge.jpg Views:	1 Size:	369.4 KB ID:	10685599
                  Last edited by sam am I; December 5th, 2018, 04:49 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    sam am I what simulation program is that ? Looks interesting
                    Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

                    Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
                    Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
                    Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

                    My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

                    Comment


                    • Yes, good stuff! Been using it since forever ago. Lots of manu's (more and more nowadays) are all including these spice (LTspice) models along with their data sheets, eval stuff, etc so you can run sim's on the products before you buy. The spice sim's AREN'T always going to behave like the real deal BUT, they'll get ya in the ball park somewhere most of the time.....

                      https://www.analog.com/en/design-cen...simulator.html

                      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LTspice
                      Last edited by sam am I; December 6th, 2018, 07:30 AM.

                      Comment


                      • I ended up with a snow blower collection too. My original Craftsman 9 HP 26" power steering unit from 22 years ago is still kicking. Did some repairs in the past.
                        My neighbor gave me one that's almost identical.
                        Someone was throwing out a fairly new smaller Craftsman and I took it. All it needed was that plastic key and it started right up! I felt guilty.

                        Another neighbor threw out a Toro two cycle. I think he added too much oil. I got it running, It was smoking like crazy. Felt bad and gave it back to him.
                        I just helped my mother in law buy a beast of a machine. It's a Cub Cadet 3X 30" Pro H. It's a 3 stage, hydrostatic transmission, 14" impeller, 420cc, heated handles, power steering. Can't wait to try it out.

                        Comment


                        • Cadet sounds like a NICE machine geeesh, and heated handles?...........Gotta admit, I use mine . At first, I thought "whatever" BUT, after about an hour of getting dug out last year, "click", on mine came.........ahhhhh , felt pretty nice actually.

                          The joy stick electric chute controls are soooooo cool, love it......So spoiled these days eh?
                          Last edited by sam am I; December 6th, 2018, 07:44 AM.

                          Comment


                          • Yeah Sam, heated handles is a first for me. Can't wait to try it out. I usually warm my gloved hands with the exhaust! Probably not a healthy thing to do!

                            Reminds me of when I used to ride street bikes. When stopped at a traffic light I would rub my gloved hands on the header pipes.

                            Comment


                            • I've reduced the 'fleet' this year, going form 5 machines down to 3. I've been looking on CL to see if folks are selling any non-working or in need of TLC type of machines for $50 . . . So, far nothing that is really tempting as a buy-fix-flip.

                              Once I get the light installed and working on the Toro, I think I'll remain steady state for a while. I got too many other projects going on right now to spend too much time on the snowblowers.

                              I did find the LTSpice program and downloaded it . . . just can't quite figure it out though . . . I have an oscilloscope, so one I get the LED light, I can see if the circuit that I made is up to the task.
                              Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

                              Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
                              Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
                              Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

                              My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

                              Comment


                              • Sign up today
                                BTW -

                                I believe that this is the stator on the engine (Tecumseh 318cc HMSK 80) P/N 611111
                                .
                                Looks to be an 18 watt vs. the 60 watt I have on the Briggs 305cc.
                                .
                                Click image for larger version  Name:	TecumsehStator.jpg Views:	1 Size:	203.3 KB ID:	10685768 .
                                As you can see in the photo . . . definitely grounded to the frame of the stator . . . . not sure if that is then grounded to the engine/chassis.
                                Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

                                Current Boats: Formula 330 Sun Sport, O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish
                                Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 Sun Sport
                                Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980)

                                My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

                                Comment

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