Yepblaze
Lieutenant Commander
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2001
- Messages
- 1,686
I've seen a number of discussions related to the proper pre-load or adjustment used when installing your trailer wheel bearings.
Some people like em tight and some people like em loose. I've even seen these two opinions strongly backed with websites telling why they need to be one way or another.
So, let me say I've done a lot of em.
Personally I prefer a bit of play after installation. But certainly not so much that the seal is going to distort to a point it leaks.
I have found that some trailers have course thread spindles, and some fine thread. Some times it's impossible (especially with course thread) to find that "sweet spot" for the nut to be located where a cotter pin is put into place and still have the desired play, or preload.
Here's what I do.
If I can't get the nut to line up close enough I remove the nut, clean in solvent, then run a big flat fine cut file across the mating surface. I try to turn the nut for each stroke of the file. (actually I like to drag the nut towards me over a stationary file)
After a few strokes, then a wash, or blow off of any filings, I put the nut back on and see how the cotter pin aligns now.
I can repeat this till I end up with that PERFECT amount of play I so much desire in my trailer's wheel bearings.
Some people like em tight and some people like em loose. I've even seen these two opinions strongly backed with websites telling why they need to be one way or another.
So, let me say I've done a lot of em.
Personally I prefer a bit of play after installation. But certainly not so much that the seal is going to distort to a point it leaks.
I have found that some trailers have course thread spindles, and some fine thread. Some times it's impossible (especially with course thread) to find that "sweet spot" for the nut to be located where a cotter pin is put into place and still have the desired play, or preload.
Here's what I do.
If I can't get the nut to line up close enough I remove the nut, clean in solvent, then run a big flat fine cut file across the mating surface. I try to turn the nut for each stroke of the file. (actually I like to drag the nut towards me over a stationary file)
After a few strokes, then a wash, or blow off of any filings, I put the nut back on and see how the cotter pin aligns now.
I can repeat this till I end up with that PERFECT amount of play I so much desire in my trailer's wheel bearings.