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Spare prop recommendation?

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  • Spare prop recommendation?

    Hi all,
    I bought a 2003 Odyssey Millenium at the very end of the season (I'm in OH). The boat is in storage and I'm trying to prepare for a fun 2019 season. This list for a tool and spare parts box was really helpful. My issue is that I'm not sure about what size prop wrench I need. Some internet searching looks like 1 1/16" is the most common but is there a way to confirm? I'd love some recommendations for a spare prop. Thanks in advance!

    Based on the sticky note:
    1. Confirm prop wrench size and prop recommendation
    2. Don't know current prop make or model but it is aluminum
    3. Don't know current prop diameter or pitch
    4. Wide open throttle RPM: ~4,500-5,000. Speed: speedometer clogged for short trip I was able to do. Estimate around 20-25 mph.
    5. Engine is 2003 Mercury 90 hp. Model 90ELPTO
    6. Boat is 2003 Odyssey Millenium. 20'

    Additional relevant information: Boat will be used at Buckeye Lake near Columbus, OH. It's a pretty shallow lake. Primary uses will be tubing for kids and cruising.
    . For me: I/O: 1. Spare prop with known good hub. 2. A wrench to remove the prop and retainer. 3. Decent 3/8" drive socket set. With spark plug socket of correct size. 4. Three pliers. Slip joint, needle nose, elec. crimpers. 4. One LONG spark

  • #2
    Hi
    yeah you really need to get the spec from your prop and after making sure the current prop suits your needs, but another. Or buy another that suits your needs better than the current one and keep that as spare.
    I’m not totally certain if your prop nut is the size I’m used to, because the gearcase size and prop and hub type changes around the 90hp mark, last I checked.
    Around a certain HP (maybe it’s over 90hp and the Bigfoot high thrust) has the larger gear case the same as the V6 outboards and mercruiser alpha ones. Or it used to have anyway.
    Anyway, they are a 27mm or imperial equivalent size deep socket or just buy a prop wrench from advice given online. Remember the locking tab etc
    hope that’s helped !

    Comment


    • #3
      Before going straight for say same current diam-pitch prop untill it's fully known, need to know if the installed tach is in excellent working order as won't know if current prop is what your combo needs for the average load that will transport in the near future.

      Install a new tach if current one is shot or suspect not reading accurately, go for a wot spin on calm flat water cond and check achieved max wot rpm run. Will know if prop suits well, order same one as a spare or in need to go for a less pitch in order for engine to rev middle to max wot rpm range factory stated.

      Happy Boating


      Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

      Comment


      • #4
        Not to sound rude or anything but....define spare please.

        Are you looking to limp back to the dock/launch ramp at reduced speed and end your day OR are you looking to continue your day as if nothing happened?
        2017 Chaparral 19 H2O Ski & Fish w./4.3L 180HP Merc Alpha
        2005 Four Winns 200Le x/5.0L Volvo SX-M (270HP - FI) - ordered new, traded in on Chaparral
        1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS w/2000 Honda 115HP - ordered new, traded in on Four Winns
        1956 MFG 15' w/matching Evinrude Big Twin 30HP - presumed to be a sandbox somewhere


        Tow Vehicle:
        2017 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium 4x4

        Comment


        • #5
          An option for a prop wrench is to just carry a crescent wrench that opens at least to 1 1/4–——a 10 or 12 inch one should do the trick and has plenty of strength to undo a prop nut.

          Then if you want to buy a prop wrench later, you can measure the opening off the crescent wrench. (I just use a crescent wrench rather than a dedicated prop wrench)

          Dont forget a small block of wood to put between the prop blade and the lower unit to hold the prop steady while you unscrew the prop nut—-I just use a 3-4 inch long piece of 2x4.

          Also needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin and spare cotter pins.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by jetboater View Post
            An option for a prop wrench is to just carry a crescent wrench that opens at least to 1 1/4–——a 10 or 12 inch one should do the trick and has plenty of strength to undo a prop nut.
            A lot of prop designs will not accommodate a adjustable wrench.

            Most of the common drives use 1-1/16" nuts.

            A floating prop wrench is cheap. Less than $15.
            • Mercury/Mariner -75-250hp
            • Mercruiser, Alpha, Bravo One
            • Evinrude/Johnson -V4-45-140hp (4" gear case)
            • Evinrude/Johnson - V6-V8 - 150-300hp (4'' gear case)
            • Cobra/Volvo SX - All
            • Yamaha Outboards - T50-250hp
            • Yamaha stern drives - All
            • Nissan/Tohatsu -70-140hp
            • Suzuki - DF60-225hp
            • Honda - 75-225hp

            ....

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jetboater View Post
              An option for a prop wrench is to just carry a crescent wrench that opens at least to 1 1/4–——a 10 or 12 inch one should do the trick and has plenty of strength to undo a prop nut..
              Good Luck trying an Adjustable Open End Wrench on this prop. FWIW, Crescent is/was a brand of wrenches
              Click image for larger version  Name:	DSC_57531c.jpg Views:	1 Size:	122.6 KB ID:	10689127

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jimmbo View Post

                Good Luck trying an Adjustable Open End Wrench on this prop. FWIW, Crescent is/was a brand of wrenches
                [ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tDSC_57531c.jpg Views:\t1 Size:\t122.6 KB ID:\t10689127","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"10689127","data-size":"medium"**[/ATTACH]
                That prop nut would be no problem for a “adjustable open end wrench”——more commonly called a crescent wrench (ex—most folks use the term “band-aid” rather than “self adhesive bandage” and “kleenex” rather than “facial tissue” )

                loosening or tightening a prop nut to the 55 lbs of torque Merc specifies is a simple task—-55 lbs of torque against a rubber hub isnt much force at all and no danger of rounding off the edges of the nut as can occur using an “adjustable open end wrench” in a normal high torque application—-I rarely use mine but this is an excellent use for them.

                but I do appreciate you letting me know the “proper name” for a crescent wrench—-not sure when I’ll ever use it though...😂.

                I’ve owned 13 boats over the past 51 years and have never needed to own an actual prop wrench—always used an “adjustable open end wrench”. -(prop wrenches are actually a relatively new product offering on the past 20 years or so—-before that, folks had to use a deep socket or an “adjustable open end wrench”)

                Prop wrenches probably work better than the “adjustable open end wrench” but the “adjustabel open end wrench” does the job just fine. I have multiple props for my two current boats and switch them out frequently during the season depending on what I’m doing..

                And a Crescent wrench will work just fine on the aluminum prop on the 2 stroke Merc 90 the OP has.....at least until he decides whether to pick up a dedicated prop wrench
                Last edited by jetboater; December 19th, 2018, 09:33 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
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                  Just how exactly do you use an adjustable wrench on a nut that is recessed 2 inches into a hole?

                  Buy a $10 floating prop wrench and keep it on the boat, it will never rust.

                  I use a deep socket in the shop, but a prop wrench out on the water.
                  Medford, WI


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