Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Pontoon Tube Reconditioning Ideas Needed

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pontoon Tube Reconditioning Ideas Needed

    This is for a seasonal-used pontoon in Lemon Bay (saltwater), FL.

    Getting water in the toons, and they are pitted.

    1. Please recommend drain plugs that I can install at the back, lower toons. Any non-weld ones?

    2. Same for small leak repair. Aluminum putty? JB Marine Weld? Something else?

    3. Waterproof, leakproofing coating I can DIY.

    4. Any and all other suggestions.

    TIY

  • #2
    Here's what I've posted on the Godfrey Owners Forum:

    New here, need expert advice . . . .

    We have a '97 Sweetwater that we use in Lemon Bay, FL, and canals, so, saltwater. We Snowbird, and when we put it in a couple weeks ago, a toon filled with water, and sank. In the several years we've owned it, it's never done that, and we leave it in the water for 3-5 months.

    We have managed to get it back on the trailer, drilled small drain holes at the rear/lower area of the tubes, and a whole lot of water came out. Probably ancient water from prehistoric time.

    I am ready to block it up off the trailer, and go to work.

    Anyone know if there's more than one compartment in the toons? The one that sank, sank in the back, where the little hole is, but the front of the toon stayed up.

    1. Any suggestions for drain plugs I can install . . . prefer non-welded. Do I need just ones in the back, or front, too?
    2. Same for locating and patching holes. JB Marine Weld, Aluminum putty, or . . . . ?
    3. Waterproof/sealant I can put on after the repairs are done.

    Thanks.

    By the way, I have seen videos on the Internet of sealing/waterproofing toons with bedliner, both spraying it on the entire toon and rolling it on the bottom half that is normally antifouling paint.

    Bedliner sounds like a good idea, so I figure it must not be. I can't think of any reason it would deteriorate in saltwater; it's not like it is "less noble" than aluminum.

    But . . .

    I would also prefer plastic drain plugs, too, because they would not be "less noble."

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by tablerockboater View Post

      3. Waterproof, leakproofing coating I can DIY.
      How about Flex Seal (as seen on TV)

      Comment


      • #4
        Funny, now that I've started blocking up the pontoon, I notice that there are three drain plugs ON TOP of each of the toons, one in the front, pointy section, one in the middle, and one at the back.

        I had not noticed them because I had looked at the back bottom.

        Why in the ---- would drain plugs be at the TOP of the toons???!!! It would be awfully hard to tip the the boat over to empty them!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          I was hoping someone more knowledgable than me would chime in, but as that has not yet happened I'll offer my thoughts.
          First, those openings on the tops of the toons are air vents to allow the pressure inside to equalize with changes in temperature. Second, you can likely extract water through those vents with tubing and a suction pump. Third, the fact that you have three fittings on each toon may mean each has three separate sealed compartments. If that is the case, the fact that the front stayed up indicates the leak was in the aft compartment. Fourth, after you seal the hole you drilled, you may be able to locate the original leak by gently pressurizing each compartment (no more than 3 psi) using the top fitting, and looking and listening for where the air is coming out. Fifth, I wouldn't use anything less than professional welding to patch any holes. Sixth, if this were mine, I'd be reluctant to spend much on it until I figured out why it started to leak. If the aluminum has become so thin in spots that it finally ate the first hole all the way through, this may not be a set of toons worth saving. ... Good luck.

          Comment


          • #6
            tablerockboater dont post to old inactive topics. The Suntracker 'toon topic you posted to is over 6yrs old, none of the posters are around any more to get or reply to your post.
            Money spent @ Boat Restoration should be measured in Smiles & Pride SHOP IBOATS-BOAT SPECS-FORUM HELP-REPAIR/RESTO

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jbcurt00 View Post
              tablerockboater dont post to old inactive topics. The Suntracker 'toon topic you posted to is over 6yrs old, none of the posters are around any more to get or reply to your post.
              Okey dokey. If it had been closed, as others that I found, I would not have posted on it. I did because it was not closed.

              Comment


              • #8
                Closed or open - It was still 6 years old. You've been around long enough to know our old thread rules.
                BOAT SPECS | FORUM HELP | STARCRAFT FORUM | SHOP iBoats
                Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
                That is what the forums are for.
                Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by HotTommy View Post
                  I was hoping someone more knowledgable than me would chime in, but as that has not yet happened I'll offer my thoughts.
                  First, those openings on the tops of the toons are air vents to allow the pressure inside to equalize with changes in temperature. Second, you can likely extract water through those vents with tubing and a suction pump. Third, the fact that you have three fittings on each toon may mean each has three separate sealed compartments. If that is the case, the fact that the front stayed up indicates the leak was in the aft compartment. Fourth, after you seal the hole you drilled, you may be able to locate the original leak by gently pressurizing each compartment (no more than 3 psi) using the top fitting, and looking and listening for where the air is coming out. Fifth, I wouldn't use anything less than professional welding to patch any holes. Sixth, if this were mine, I'd be reluctant to spend much on it until I figured out why it started to leak. If the aluminum has become so thin in spots that it finally ate the first hole all the way through, this may not be a set of toons worth saving. ... Good luck.
                  I've done enough google-education the last two days to know that I agree with everything you said.

                  I've got it off the bunks, and cleaning and evaluating the toons is next. Good or not, we will not spend much money on it. The fact that I replaced all of the stringers three years ago because they had sacrificed tells me a lot. I put on all new stringers and the transom then for $200. The stringers I put on have not sacrificed/pitted at all.

                  I still wonder why some toons have drain plugs and some do not.

                  I would think it would be a good idea to put inner liners in the toons, that can be pressurized, like an inner tube. Or, when toons get weak, put in that inner tube, like you can do with tubeless tires if you want.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GA_Boater View Post
                    Closed or open - It was still 6 years old. You've been around long enough to know our old thread rules.
                    Then it is definitely my fault.

                    I have been here awhile, but not frequently.

                    That's good, I think, since I come here with boat problems.

                    Last edited by tablerockboater; January 14th, 2020, 07:41 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      1. No
                      2. No
                      3. No

                      Replace the boat or at a minimum, replace the toon logs
                      Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                      Past Boats
                      1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                      2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                      1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                      What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
                        1. No
                        2. No
                        3. No

                        Replace the boat or at a minimum, replace the toon logs
                        We could be getting to that. (Even with all the videos on the Internet showing people doing those things.)

                        We know not to spend $1000 on a $50 boat.

                        So, now that it's been brought to my attention, why is water in toons such a problem, do you think?

                        & I see we're not far away. Do you run into any Sherrards of Ed Droste?
                        Last edited by tablerockboater; January 14th, 2020, 07:25 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by HotTommy View Post
                          I Fourth, after you seal the hole you drilled, you may be able to locate the original leak by gently pressurizing each compartment (no more than 3 psi) using the top fitting, and looking and listening for where the air is coming out. Fifth,
                          I hadn't mentioned that we know where (at least one) (of the) original leak(s) is because we were able to raise the pontoon with a davit cable connected to the back of the toon that was submerged at the back, and when we raised it, water was peeing out of that hole.

                          I will use those "vents" at the top of the toons to check for water in the other five (likely) compartments, like is shown in a youtube video.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jbcurt00 View Post
                            tablerockboater dont post to old inactive topics. The Suntracker 'toon topic you posted to is over 6yrs old, none of the posters are around any more to get or reply to your post.
                            Now that I think about it, the other day I posted on another forum I probably should not have.

                            It is a Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade forum, which I use to get others' experiences when I have problems with our vehicles, like I do with this forum for boat problems. Been on that forum a long time, too, first with our 2000 Yukon, which we replaced with an Escalade.

                            The driver's seat heaters have a mind of their own. Keep coming on all by themselves, going from low to medium to high to off to low to medium to high, and they were driving me crazy. I first thought I was accidentally hitting the buttons on the door arm rest.

                            I did what I always do, googled, and found it is a common problem, and GM has TSB on it. I also found a thread about the problem on that forum, so I posted about the TSB, and a link to how to disconnect the connectors under the seat. Then, when we drove 1200 miles to Florida, we noticed that also disabled the heaters to the passenger seat, my wife's, which she was not happy about.

                            So, I posted again that on the forum, saying that if I could find that thread on a google search, someone else could too, and they may want to know what I found out, because that's what Internet forums are for.

                            I just looked and no one has replied to what I posted, so I guess I should have just kept all that to myself.

                            Back to the toons in the morning . . . .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              So, now that it's been brought to my attention, why is water in toons such a problem, do you think?
                              If this is a real question, didn't you start this thread because the stern of your toon was sitting on the bottom?
                              BOAT SPECS | FORUM HELP | STARCRAFT FORUM | SHOP iBoats
                              Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
                              That is what the forums are for.
                              Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X