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Intex Mariner 4 floor plans

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  • Intex Mariner 4 floor plans

    Sorry to beat a dead horse forgive me..

    Could someone point me to the post with the best floor plans, i am looking for both floor solutions, and maybe measurements for what to cut it to. Thanks

  • #2
    Well dog-gonnit, i have a Seahawk 4 as well, looking to do the same for both hulls, OR one floor solution that would work in EITHER hull, depending which one i choose to take..



    • #3
      Here is a plan for a mariner 3( seahawk II)..if you modify the measured dimensions you can make it for the mariner 4 also( Mariner 4 takes two sheets of plywood..unless you don't care about the 5 inches on each end you never stand on then one sheet can be used)

      1..Used OSB 15/32 from H depot**** See note Do Not use OSB
      2.I measured the longest line from bow to stern of the inflated floor , (remember to tuck the measuring tape snug under the side tubes and front and rear tube)and found the center of that line( divide distance by 2)
      mark this with a small magic marker dot. My length was 96 inches divide by two is 48
      3.Repeat the measurement for width at the widest spot of the inflated boat floor ...mine was 27inch (divide by 2 is 13 1/2 ),,mark center of that line at the mark you made for the length. This is exact center of boat.
      4.From that point you have 48 inches to the bow , to the stern, and 13 1/2 inches to each side.
      5 I took an inch off all dimensions..front, rear, and both sides
      6. ask H depot to make the cuts for you when you buy
      7. my dimensions that were cut were 24 1/2x 94( extra 1/2 inch off the sides ...fudge factor)
      9. have them cut that piece in half=47x24 1/2each piece(mine)
      10. find the center point of the two lines, marked on your boat with magic marker.measure up to the first section where the chambers agle inward.
      11.measure this distance across and mark this distance on your wood, repeat this measurement up a the next angle(where the chambers angle inward..It is almost a 45 degree angle on each of the two inward angles that the chambers make. This is difficult to describe..but you can see that the wood has to be cut at the angles.
      12.measure up from the center point again on the boat, 47 inches on my intex. Measure the length of that line all the way under the inflated side chambers, and then take two inchesoff that line measurement.....mine was 7 1/12 inches wide(9 1/2 minus 2)
      This will be the measurement of the very end of each piece of wood. You will now see that this must be cut to this dimension , with the angles. The wood will fit in the boat with 1 inch to spare on the top , bottom and all sides.A skill saw or hand saw will cut the angles easily.
      13. Mark and cut your wood ...I had to trim ever so slightly..you may need to also.Better to trim each side a little than to cut alot off one side or the other.
      14. when the dimensions are right, with about inch to spare top,bottom, and all sides.( this is when the extra inch comes in..the pipe insulation will take up this extra inch on all sides)..
      I used a file to round all the edges of the wood for splinters..some use a router,sander etc...the pipe insulation will cover all the edges,anyway.
      Paint the wood on both sides with a primer sealer..I used white acrylic(about 1 quart will do the job) was told oil based is better...but the drying time and fumes were not worth it to me.
      15. let dry for 2 days...repeat paint...this makes a good seal on the wood and all edges
      16. You will have to cut a hole in one of the pieces to accomodate the floor valve...about a 2 1/2 in hole...measure location very accurately before cutting...and seal the hole with above primer sealer.
      16. I used 3/4 inch styrofoam pipe insulation( the look like pool play toys..and can be found at home depot..they are about 6 foot long etc.split ) open the insulation lengthwise,and slide over the edge of the wood all around..including the bottom of each piece of wood where they will match up and meet in the middle of the floor of the boat. This will prevent any abrasion of the wood against the floor or the side chambers where the floor and sides meet.
      This insulation takes up the extra inch on all sides of the boat..making installation very snug.
      Last... I used indoor outdoor carpet, with proper indor outdoor carpet cement to cover 1 (ONE)side of the wood.
      Cement the carpet first..then attach pipe insulation..over carpet around the entire perimeter of the wood..as note above.
      Fit and trim as needed...
      you should end up with a nice looking floor, very stable,
      Installation instruction...partially inflat chamber 1 and 2...about 1/3 full,
      install each piece of the wood floor, making sure the floor valve of the boat is centered in the hole that was cut in the wood for it(once again..BE VERY ACCURATE WHEN CUTTING THE HOLE IN THE WOOD FOR THE FLOOR VALVE)....
      anyway..then fill chamber one and then two, and the fill floor chamber...it may seem mor difficult because of the wood on it..but you will see how it works when you do this, In fact..the floor can be left less than fully inflated because of the support of the wood,...But yes ..you can fill the floor also to full. You will see what I mean.The floor section may seem like it is not filling as well, this is the weight of the wood. if you get the floor about 1/2 full, then launch...I use the hand pump to top the side chambers and fill the floor while in the water,,,works easier for me.

      ** there are many videos on Y T that show this procedure for different inflatable boats....watching one will make the whole thing make sense...also encourage reading the I B O A T S forum "mariner 4 modifications"...hundreds of tips and tricks

      enjoy and Happy Boating

      Note to floor builders.....I have had some problems with the original material....OSB.....I suggest you use 1/2 inch plywood...all other instructions are good to go.


      • #4
        Brian also check post # 1327 and forward( page 88 I think) in Mariner 4 modifications thread. Scottish Script has some great pics, dimensions and views that may help


        • #5
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          Ok, thanks