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Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

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  • Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

    I have an alarm going off and on sometimes around 3500 rpms. Is it true that different alarms come on at different rpms? If I put the motors in neutral they stop the alarm. I can cruise around but if I go to 3000+ they alarm and a rev limiter comes on. The previous owner took out the oil tanks and I premix the fuel. The water streams fine out of the hole. The is an additional water stream coming out of one of the motors that pees on the transom of the boat. Is that normal? Any guidance will help and I can answer any questions.

  • #2
    Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

    Alarms don't come at various rpms -- they come on under various conditions such as "No Oil". "Low Oil" and "Overheat". The alarms may be a beeping sound or a steady tone. Steady tone is typically the signal for overheating. Just because the water pump appears to be pumping does not mean the engine is not overheating. Bypass valve, thermostat and clogged cooling system can also cause it. Since the oil injection system has been bypassed, the low oil/no oil alarm should also be non-functional unless of course, whoever did the bypass didn't know what they were doing. Since the overheat alarm would also trigger an rpm limit at about 3000 rpm I suspect you have an overheat condition. Keep running the engine and you will damage it.

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    • #3
      Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

      Silvertip is correct. Time to drop the foot and install a new water pump impeller. You might want to flush out all the passages with a hose.

      While you're at it, go ahead and change the two thermostats which are on the upper part of the heads.

      And, with the lower unit dropped, drain the grease in the lower unit and have it pressure and vacuum tested by a professional marine mechanic before replacing the grease.

      Your motor's oil injection is mechanical and very reliable. The float in the small tank signals the pump (in the big external tank) when there's a low oil level in the little tank--and runs the oil pump. The float tells the pump to stop when the little tank is full. An identical float in the big external oil tank signals the engine when its oil level's too low, and the engine will go into a fail safe/low rpm mode (buzzing) to keep the engine from hurting itself. There is an electronic oil system module on the engine behind the little oil tank that controls the system. The switch on the module can be used to pump oil manually from the big tank to the little tank.

      The previous owner really shouldn't have bypassed the oil injection. It could also be the source of the problem. You might check to see if the oil system can be reinstated.

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      • #4
        Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

        Actually the aux tank in the boat will not trigger the SLOW mode on the engine. It will only flash a warning light on the dash. The main tank on the engine signals the red low oil light and sounds the alarm/SLOW mode.

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        • #5
          Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

          OK so I want to try and pinpoint the actual problem without spending excess cash on the project to get the boat back to normal. If the stream coming out of the hole is steady and strong wouldn't that mean that the impeller is probably working just fine? The alarm is a steady one and won't turn off until put back in neutral and then no alarm so it definitely sounds like an overheat problem.. I am not going to run the boat again till I fix it but just wanted to make sure I do the steps best first. I was thinking to try to change the thermostats first since they look easiest then impeller since it looks a little harder to change. I want to do everything myself since I only trust myself working on my stuff. It could also be a head gasket blown right? What kind of repair cost would that be? I would not want to do that myself.

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          • #6
            Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

            All the pee stream tells you is the water pump is pumping. Not how much.

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            • #7
              Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

              An overheat at faster speeds can be the bypass valve sticking closed or partially closed thus blocking water flow through the engine. At idle the thermostat being open is enough to cool the engine. But lack of water flow is also possible so you are never wrong in replacing the impeller, especially if it has not been changed in two years or more. While doing that do a good flush with the thermostat and bypass assemblies opened up. None of those parts are budget busters.

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              • #8
                Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                Ok I took the lower unit down and here is a pic of the impeller. Looks pretty good to me. Should I replace it?

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                • #9
                  Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                  Looks good to me I wouldn't replace it. Check you T-stats!

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                  • #10
                    Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                    Just take it step by step. Chances are that it's something simple. It doesn't matter what the impeller looks like, go ahead and change the $27 part.

                    You should also go ahead and change the thermostats while you're working on it--under the little round thingies on the top of the heads above the plugs. They age over the years.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                      I had a similar problem on the same engine (1995 vintage), and it turned out one of the temperature sensors was causing the alarm at a temperature that was too low. I went through all of the same troubleshooting steps (impeller, thermostats, even flushed the raw water cooling system) and ultimately it was just the bad sensor on one side that was causing the rev limiting and persistent buzzing alarm at higher RPM. The sensors are easy to replace, just two wires and the plastic plug. No tools required.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                        Originally posted by Silvertip View Post
                        An overheat at faster speeds can be the bypass valve sticking closed or partially closed thus blocking water flow through the engine. At idle the thermostat being open is enough to cool the engine. But lack of water flow is also possible so you are never wrong in replacing the impeller, especially if it has not been changed in two years or more. While doing that do a good flush with the thermostat and bypass assemblies opened up. None of those parts are budget busters.
                        where is the bypass valve located ?

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                        • #13
                          Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                          I'm having same problem with my 2003 txrb. My buzzer is going off and engine is cutting off. How did you know it was the sensors? Is there a test u can do?

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                          • #14
                            Re: Yamaha 130 2 stroke 2001 alarm

                            The sensors are comprised of a plastic/rubber plug that is recessed right next to the cylinder heads and two wires with inline connections. You should be able to disconnect the sensors by means of the two wires that connect them back to the harness, just pull one wire to prevent the overheat throttle limiter circuit from closing. Now bear in mind, if your engine is legitimately overheating, you'll want to know it. In my case the engine block was not so hot that I couldn't put my hand on it while the engine was running, I knew that the cooling water was flowing around the jackets, and there was no significant difference between the two sides, so I felt comfortable that I was not overheating. You can disconnect one or the other to detect the sensor that is tripping at a lower temperature, and then switch the sensors by pulling the plug out of the cavity and switching the wires to determine if a known working sensor will alarm on either side. The shop manual I have indicates a turn on temperature of 183F to 194F for the sensor, and the test is to dip it in hot water while connected to a continuity tester to see if the circuit closes between 183F to 194F and opens again between 140F to 165F.

                            Good luck!

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                            • #15
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                              I have tried almost everything to get my engines alarm to not go off. I have bypassed the oil alarm professionally. I installed all new water pump, popit valve, thermostats and have flushed the entire engines water department and cleaned with all new gaskets. I also installed temperature gauges and the temps never go over 140 degrees. I tested all of the temperature sensors and they work properly. My alarm goes off sometimes even at 2000 rpms. It's like I have some sort of wiring problem. Does anyone know how to just bypass the alarm so it doesn't go off or have any other suggestions? I have two engines. At this point if the engine blows I don't care, i will just put a new block in. I just think its the wiring.

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