Volvo Penta 5.7 GSI TBI year 2000

[Volym]

Hey boaters! I have a problem with my Four Winns 268 vista that is keeping me up at night. The boat was working fine when I used it the last time. But now when I was trying to get out on the waters again the boat was fighting me in the marina. I put the ignition on and put it to stage one, Then the outdrive was trying to raise itself up all the time with out pushing the leaver. I unplugged the batteries and put a dehumidifier in the engine compartment. Got back the next day and the problem had got away. Now to the main problem.

The engine won’t start!! The fuel pumps don’t prime but the pumps are working if I bypass the relay with a wire. But the injectors won’t spray. I tested the injectors with a 9v battery and they spray fine when I bypass the relay. I have spark and oil pressure. The water temp fluctuate from low to max, The tachometer comes and goes, But do not show rpm when I crank the engine. Same when I removed the grey wire. The relays seems to be okay when I test them. What is the next step to go for? Sorry for my English not my first language “Swedish”
Engine serial number : 5.7 gsi PWRT “3868947”

 

[alldodge]

Remove both battery cables at both ends, this is at engine block and starter. Clean the connections to shinny metal and reattach.

Your symptoms are leading me to a bad ground. Also check the 50 amp breaker on the motor and its connections

 

[Volym]

I will do that, I am about 70% done with polishing all the posts and connectors. I will continue tomorrow. Is there a known main ground on the vp engine that you know of? I will check everything I see and can locate thru w-diagram.

 

[alldodge]

Is there a known main ground on the vp engine that you know of?

Follow the negative cable to the block, that should be the main. There may also be one in same location on opposite side or block

 

[Fun Times]

outdrive was trying to raise itself up all the time with out pushing the leaver. I unplugged the batteries and put a dehumidifier in the engine compartment.

I once experienced that same symptom on a 2000ish Volvo Penta application...Left work knowing the drive was in the up position and came back the next morning to the drive jammed down to the ground and the battery dead.

With some quick testing and visual looking, I found one of the main wiring harnesses (to the trim system) that runs between the helm/dash general area to the engine was laying on the floor and sitting in a pool of water along the side of boats lower gunnel area just under the shifter control mechanism area.

There was a white plug connector that was wet and had corroded through allowing a connection of the power wire and blue down trim wire powering up the trim system.

So with that mentioned you may also have other power wires as well with a bit of corrosion to the power or ground side anywhere between the helm and engine and/or a loose connection at any of the connection points of both trim and engine power systems.

With the key in the on position, try carefully shaking some wires around to see if the situation changes any.

 

[Lou C]

You could have a corroded trim relay that is causing it to operate without pushing the trim button on the control or even the trim switch on the control could stick. Either way that will pull a ton of amps out of the battery and finding a dead battery is not surprising, then.
The stock wiring on many boats is very low quality. I would check all your main battery cables for corrosion and trace your negative cable all the way back to the engine ground. You will find them behind the exhaust elbow right on the engine bell housing, one on each side. The cable should be bolted to stud coming out of the bell housing.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Flywh...view_id.780866
part # 19 is the stud, should be one on each side.

Also, do not use wingnuts to attach the battery cable to the battery! They get loose and cause problems just like this! I take a good quality marine batter clamp and bolt it to the terminal. That way I can replace them when they get corroded with nice new ones as long at the cables are good. In the pic above the clamps are under the protective rubber covers to prevent shorts. I use battery trays not boxes.

 

[Volym]

Tanks for the knowledge everyone! Today I traced the main ground cables and yes! They where corroded. About 30 different grounding cables on those two posts. Took of all the corrosion on the block and cables. Had to take down the “exhaust knees” to get to them but now the contacts shine like new! “Found some nice flaps in the exhaust piping that was handy to keeping me dry from the sea water that was trying to sink the boat!

Unfortunately it did not fix the current problem, But it defiantly saved me from a future grounding problem. Tomorrow I will go and get a new test lamp with a long wire and a nice ohmmeter to follow the guide on “Volvo starting systems” that I found here on iBoats. Also the wing nuts is replaced with nuts and new clamps is on!

What do you guys think Is the next thing to check after all this ?

ps The ventus battery unit and the solar converter system seams to have given up as well. Don’t know if that Has anything to do with the boat not starting or just a coincidence.

 

[alldodge]

Start at the battery and measure volts, turn key ON and watch to see if voltage drops.
Then start tracing 12V to starter, up to breaker and across it
Look for 12V at coil
See if 12V is found at the key switch Red/purple wire.
Turn key ON again and see if 12V goes to purple wire on key

 

[QBhoy]

Disconnect the trim pump and see if everything else works. Agree it sounds like an earth or short and likely around your trim pump. Or run an earth from it straight to battery earth. That will tell you a story.

 

[Volym]

The voltage does not drop, 12 v is found at key switch on red and purple only an purple when the ignition is on. 8.4v on coil. What does that make? Bad coil? Module to?

 

[Volym]

Disconnected the trim pump an nothing changed. Had some corrosion on a relay. Now it is working

 

[alldodge]

The voltage does not drop, 12 v is found at key switch on red and purple only an purple when the ignition is on. 8.4v on coil. What does that make? Bad coil? Module to?

Doubt the coil is bad, most likely its more corrosion. Anywhere along from battery thru all connections to coil, there is corrosion. Corrosion is a resistance and voltage drops where ever there is resistance

 

[Volym]

okej, So what would make the TBI system not pulsing is a bad ground. I also took the voltage on the water temp sensor contact It showed 3.5v what I understand I should be 5v. Bad ground all around ?

 

[alldodge]

My comments are from the 8.4V found at the coil, it should be 12V. If there is only that much at the injectors they won't open as far

Water temp at 3.5V is not an issue

The post started with issues of out drive going up on its own, and after dehumidifying then it won't start. It ,all keeps coming back to corrosion and can be on ground side, hot side or both and anything connected to it. Electrical problems are the worst because they can be about anywhere in the circuit, and one bad circuit can cause issues with another

 

[Volym]

Hi Again.. Now i have done numerous tests on the boat.. I was following a older post from Dom.S on how to test the ecm. That test tells me that the ecm is dead. I had continuity from the J23 to the T85 fule pump relay. Is that a 100% dead ecm test or can it be something else that I can check before buying a new ecm for 2000$


On to checking the rest of the system.
Since you have power to the relays, we have to check the path to ground for the relay. Back to the ECM.
Disconnect the battery ground.
Then disconnect the J1 connector from the ECM, then with an ohm meter check for continuity between a good engine ground and terminals 4-5-20 of the J1 connector (NOT the ECM itself). Those are all grounds to the engine and must be good. If they are ok, again with an ohm meter, check terminal J1-23 on the connector, to terminal 85 on the relay socket (Black wire with yellow stripe). If that is good, then you have a bad ECM.
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...es/296680-1999-volvo-5-7-gsi-fuel-pump-issues

​

 

[alldodge]

Hi Again.. Now i have done numerous tests on the boat.. I was following a older post from Dom.S on how to test the ecm. That test tells me that the ecm is dead. I had continuity from the J23 to the T85 fule pump relay. Is that a 100% dead ecm test or can it be something else that I can check before buying a new ecm for 2000$

The J23 to relay contact T85 wire allows the cem to energize the relay. Having continuity just means the wire is good, not that the ecm is bad. The ecm applies a ground internally ONLY when the ecm reads that the distributor is firing. When cranking the motor do you see at least 300 rpm while cranking?

Not real sure that would be a bad ecm test. DonS was a wealth of info and not real sure about this test.

Hey muc do you have any input on this test?

 

[alldodge]

If your boat was running fine, fuel pump working and then pump stopped it would be suspect that the ecm connection may be the issue. Yours has had lots of electrical issues and nothing is working, so not so sure.

If it does come down to the ecm it can be sent off for testing and repair at less cost. Not read yet but when needed I would suggest Bob at OBD diagnostics

 

[Volym]

Yes he was.. I don’t see rpm via the dash no, What does that mean?

Does the signal go directly from the ignition system to dash or via the ecm?

I did the ignition module test by piggybacking of the signal wire with a testlamp from the battery positive and it klickt as it should. The distributor is giving spark and by that piggyback test it would also give a signal from the module if it klicks? But I can’t be 100% that it’s getting to the ecm or if it’s brain dead. Maybe a new module is worth a shot.

what do you mean with the connection? The j1 connection itself?

yes, It would be logical to send it for testing, If not for corona I would have sent it to Bob via direct flight in the morning. But the shipping is so backt up that it would arrive to America in a month’s time “give or take” But I will try to get it to him If he has time.

Unfortunately it seems that nobody can test the ecm in Sweden. Called Volvo penta and they can’t even be bothered to do a obd test.. All the independent marinas is forbidden to have the penta software och even look at the engine... so here we are!

Would gladly wire you for the guidance and knowledge.