Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2001 volvo Penta 5.7L gsi EFI won't stay running

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2001 volvo Penta 5.7L gsi EFI won't stay running

    Hello, I have not been here for a while since my last boat. Been working on some issue with my motor for the last 3 weeks and can't seem to figure things out. Doing tons of reading on different issues with "won't starts and what not"..

    I have a 2001 volvo penta 5.7L that wont' stay running. Ran fine last season no issues.
    Took it to the lake no go! Engine stalls and won't run more than a few seconds. advanced throttle still dies no change.

    changed:
    plugs
    cap/rotor were corroded- thought this was the fix!
    new wires- triple checked firing order
    fuel/ water sep. filter
    tried seafoam blackened my new plugs - old plugs back on
    oil pressure sensor tested -249 ohm
    oil pressure switch rusted- cleaned rust and connector a bit
    iac cleaned - seems to be working
    bought cheap iac for testing both working identically
    fuel pump has no visible paint chips coming loose- runs with the 2 beeps and after the engine stalls
    had old fuel from last season that has never been a problem on first season start. Added 12 more gallons last month.
    batteries take a full charge
    I also see the oil pressure at zero when key is on, 40 psi when engine cranks, disconnected the blue wire to ground it pegs to 80 psi with key on. Is this normal?

    I'm not sure what else to do next. Talked to a mechanic from a marina and he said it's my stale gas use seafoam. He swears it should fire up.

    any help much appreciated.





    Last edited by Hope2boat; September 5th, 2019, 09:33 AM.

  • #2
    IMO seafoam is snake oil (Its made of Naptha, alcohol, machine oil)

    tried seafoam blackened my new plugs - old plugs back on
    As before don't like seafoam but also don't see how it blackened your plugs that fast. Your just running real rich

    Disconnect the oil pressure switch (not the gauge sender), this will tell the ECM that there is pressure in case the switch is bad. It should have a Tan/Black wire on it

    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
    07 Seadoo GTX
    Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

    Comment


    • #3
      Okay tried that and no go nothing. Same result engine runs for three seconds.
      I am hearing a noise and it sound like it's the fuel pump. I will assume it's a whine.
      I will be testing the fuel pump pressure next. I only have a valve on one fuel cell and nothing on the HP side. How is this test done?

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm seeing a 5.7 GSi as TBI and not MPI

        If this is correct, you will need the GM TB adapter. If you have a local auto store that rents tools it may have the adapter in the fuel pressure gauge tester. Otherwise you need one of these (search for GM TBI adapter)

        Click image for larger version

Name:	VP TBI 01800001320.jpg
Views:	5
Size:	23.8 KB
ID:	10797074
        94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
        95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
        07 Seadoo GTX
        Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
        G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks that should work.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi
            im a big fan of seafoam...but it certainly won’t fix contaminated or depleted octane fuel.
            Once fuel is stale or contaminated nothing can recover it. Not even adding more fuel.

            Comment


            • #7
              I tried to test the fuel pressure but the adapters are leaking gas and get 0 reading. The TBI adapter leaks from the fuel line going into the adapter no full seal, the shrader valve leaks right at the threaded part coming out the fuel pump. TBI adapter looks good the other one seems worn.

              Comment


              • #8
                The adapter may need new O rings
                94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                07 Seadoo GTX
                Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
                G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Im curious if the throttle body injectors are visibly spraying fuel as you crank. If the injectors don't spray then there's a crank reference missing and in TBI this comes from the ignition module under the distributor cap.

                  One can carefully add a little stream of gasoline to the throttle plate, then put it away and crank again. The additional fuel will tell you something.

                  Also, not while dealing with raw fuel its a good idea to verify spark. Lisle makes a "visualizer" which takes the place of a spark plug, with some adjustable screw-thread points. The HEI spark should jump a 3/4" gap on the outside of the engine, or else you have a problem. If you have a problem its likely the col itself due to age or the ignition module which is under the distributor cap. Make sure to bed a new ign module in silicone dielectric grease for proper heat transfer to the aluminum base otherwise the ign module will fail in short order.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Have you checked the alternator, as it is supposed to take over the fuel pump supply once the starter has done it's job?

                    Cranchi Ellipse 21
                    5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
                    DP-SM outdrive

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I tested the fuel pump pressure LP 1 psi, HP 9 psi. Took it apart paint chips everywhere! I plan to clean it out and rebuild it. where do i buy the orings? and how to test the pumps once they are off?

                      Do a have to check anything else for paint chips in the fuel system?

                      Thanks in advance..

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        https://mancavemechanic.com/shop?ols...or-volvo-penta

                        Lots of posts on the forum regarding the paint issue, a search will reveal all.
                        Last edited by dypcdiver; September 11th, 2019, 01:56 AM.

                        Cranchi Ellipse 21
                        5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
                        DP-SM outdrive

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Could also be you have a restriction between tank and pumps. Clean everything and hook it back up to test. Will also need to have the injectors cleaned
                          94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                          95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                          07 Seadoo GTX
                          Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
                          G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Sign up today
                            Update:
                            I took the fuel pump apart and cleaned most of the paint out with a rotary tool and brush. The o-rings were still good and got reused. The boat started up on the first turn and runs/idles. It ran on muffs for a few minutes then i shut it off : ).
                            Finally figured it out! Thanks guys for the support and I Hope this helps someone else here..

                            I will report back after a lake trip...

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X