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Volvo Penta 4.3 GL Won't Crank - No Power to Ignition Switch

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  • Volvo Penta 4.3 GL Won't Crank - No Power to Ignition Switch

    ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS GREATLY APPRECIATED


    I have a 2003 Volvo Penta 4.3l GL in a Four Winns Freedom 170.

    Engine won't crank - Nothing happens when I turn the key.

    Buzzer does not come on and gauges do not start/light up. The horn, blower, bilge and Nav lights all work fine. I checked the Ignition switch (where you put the key in) and found that I have no power going to the Battery (B) post on the ignition switch. If I jump 12v from the fuse block to the start (S) post on the ignition switch, the engine will turn over but not start.

    Here are the things have checked out okay:
    - Battery good
    - Throttle in Neutral and kill switch securely in place
    - 50A breaker on engine tests okay
    - All fuses in the fuse panel test okay
    - Both (2) fuses behind the 50A breaker in the engine compartment test okay
    - 12V cable from battery to starter tests okay,
    - 12V line to the alternator tests okay

    Engine ran all summer, no leading symptoms. Before it failed, I kicked up some dirt in shallow water. I'm sure some of it got sucked up in the cooling system. The engine stalled at low speed about 30 seconds after after the dirt was churned up. It took about 3 tries, then restarted. It ran fine for another 2-3 minutes, then stalled again and would not restart. I trailered it and started looking at it about 60 mins after the second (and final) stall. The motor seemed hot. I did not notice the engine temperature gauge before it stalled either time. Also, I did not hear any audible alarm before it stalled either time.

    The engine has completely cooled down over several hours but still will not crank.

    I'm hoping these conditions may trigger some thoughts on where to check next. My guess is the biggest clue is no power (12V) going to the ignition switch.

    Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    If you do not have a fuse labeled (ignition) then go to the key switch and find the Red/Purple wire. Follow that wire to a 20 amp fuse (probably inline). Its probably blown
    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
    07 Seadoo GTX
    Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

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    • #3
      I think you are 99% of the way there. Jumping 12vdc to the "Crank"/3rd position on the key switch with the result of engine cranks but not starts, says to me at least that the base engine is OK. I believe it won't run/idle because there is also no power to the maintained 2nd position/ignition=ON...the incoming 12vdc to the key switch is from a common source. Solve the problem of no 12vdc to B/battery terminal on the key switch and you should be back running. I would suspect a fuse as AllDodge suggested. Its remotely possible that a wire got rubbed thru to ground which could be causing the blown fuse.

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      • #4
        AllDodge & Saline-

        Thanks for the responses, my apologies for the delayed response (been traveling).

        Here is an update...

        - I ran a 12v jumper wire from the fuse panel (the jumper wire is fused - 15A) to the ignition switch and it now starts fine.

        - I’ve started and driven the boat multiple times and for about an hour using the 12v jumper wire and it runs perfect (thank God).

        - There is no in-line fuse under the dash in the Red/Purple ignition wire.

        I traced the Red/Purple ignition wire back to the engine compartment (which wasn’t easy). I can follow it going into a large black/rubber plug near the top rear of the engine, however once it comes out of that plug it goes behind the engine in a bundle of wires and I can no longer see or follow it. I wiggled the large black/rubber wire harness boot to see if the connection became loose, but no luck.

        QUESTION: Any idea where that darn Red/Purple wire on the Battery (B) post of the ignition switch originates from or where it’s pulling its 12v from in the engine compartment??

        I’m happy it’s running again, but I don’t like leaving it this way as it’s not right.

        Thanks again for all your help!

        Comment


        • #5
          Volvo Penta 4.3L

          Does anyone know where the 12v power supply (red/purple wire) going to the Battery (B) terminal on the ignition switch originates from in the engine compartment?

          I somehow lost power to the switch and don’t know where to look.

          Note- Ive confirmed there’s no in-line fuse under the dash. The wire runs directly back to the engine compartment. I traced it through to the large black/rubber wire harness boot, but after that it goes behind the engine where I can no longer see or trace it.


          Thanks for any help.

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          • #6
            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...-1997-gl-motor
            NO PERSONAL QUESTIONS, THIS IS WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR.

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            • #7
              Both (2) fuses behind the 50A breaker in the engine compartment test okay
              Looking at the Gl diagrams (never said which GL U have) most don't have a 20 amp ignition fuse. They use a 40 amp fuse on the motor. The Red/Purple wire starts at the 50 amp breaker, and then goes thru the 40 amp fuse (item 7). Your fuse may be good but maybe its the connector that holds the fuse

              Click image for larger version

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              94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
              95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
              07 Seadoo GTX
              Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
              G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

              Comment


              • #8
                Here's some info from a 1999 4.3 GL/GS manual which does reference the red/purple wire. As AllDodge states above, it seems to come from the 50A breaker on the motor. Possibly a poor or degraded connection there? Also the wiring which goes out to the operator station (driver's seat) is part of the multi-pin plug so there could be a problem with a pin pushed back or corroded socket there also.

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                • #9
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                  I did a little more research...this issue crosses two wiring diagrams by virtue of going thru the multi-pin plug....

                  So the red/purple passes thru #24 fuse block on the instrument panel wiring diagram and into the multi-pin connector thru pole #6.



                  This is the instrument panel legend in case its needed...



                  The red/purple passes thru the multi-pin to come out and attach to the 50A breaker noted as #12 on the diagram...to be clear there are TWO different 50A breakers, one for the engine functions and the other specifically for the tilt/trim function. To make matters slightly confusing there's a red/purple which emanates from the #11 trim/tilt 50A circuit breaker and goes to the trim motor, so don't get confused if this schematic is followed for your craft.



                  This is the legend for the last diagram in case it is needed...

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