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AQ145 / B230 upgrade

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  • #16
    Originally posted by kiwibob View Post
    Cooked the engine in my boat (1985) so after some research found the later model Volvo car engine (1994) to be the same, EXCEPT the later engine is loaded with fuel injection and emission stuff.
    Brought an old Volvo and salvaged the engine so;

    !/ The later engine has the bolt holes but not the lever hole for the fuel pump. Do i just "break out" the centre?
    2/ The later engine has heat riser(?) tubes that fit under the exhaust manifold which need blocking off. Welsh plugs of .8"
    may block these off while still looking factory?
    3/ The silent shaft needs replacing to the marine type to gain the drive for the raw water pump - can this be done without
    removing the sump OR is there a "bolt on" adapter available?

    Also can the old engine be removed without pulling the 280 stern drive to bits?

    Thank you for any advice and tips in advance,
    Oh and thanks for letting me join the forum.

    Kiwibob
    OK, Plan so far for those interested.

    Going to run electric fuel pump.. Saves removing sump to remove oil pump & shaft

    13/16" dome frost plugs will be perfect to fill in the heat riser holes under the exhaust manifold.

    Going to have an adapter made up for end of silent shaft to run the raw water pump. The later model engine has round toothed cam belt where as the early one is a square toothed.

    Thus far i think we are getting sorted tho will need some more dismantling and comparison to make sure we are out of the woods..
    Interesting the later model engine has a refined oil - piston squirt system due to some being turbo charged. :-)

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    • #17
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      Good luck.
      I've done this with 1989 model year automobile engines. Becoming much harder to find with usable cylinder conditions. You should find the auto front pulley assembly(harmonic balancer) is too large a diameter. Electric fuel pump on your boat could be a dangerous option if not done correctly, make sure you use a low pressure pump 3-5 psi not 40-60.

      Also, the tail end of the crankshaft may not have the correct size hole in it to put the bearing inside (to match the outdrive input shaft.

      Next, where is the distributor drive? rear end of camshaft or engine block.

      Check the letter stamped in the rear end of the camshaft, if your current engine is the marine model, you should swap camshafts
      Last edited by dennis461; May 9th, 2019, 05:59 PM.
      Dennis
      20' 1987 Renken Cuddy Cabin
      AQ131C 270 drive
      Southern NJ

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