Manifold/riser installation question

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,854
Here are the new style gaskets that do not require sealer....note the part # is the same as referenced in the post above....#16
 

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Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
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11,854
PS
when I installed the Barr exhaust on my OMC, I used the Barr gaskets and coated them as per their tech's recommendation with Permatex Aviation sealer. No leaks so far.
 

ChrisinPHX

Seaman
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
69
Interesting. I've coated the surfaces using the new style gaskets, and have no problems so far.
 

ChrisCraftFan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
184
I bought the Barr kit with exhaust and risers for my 2000 5,7GSi. I am confused about the gaskets. It actually came with 2 sets of riser gaskets but they do not seem to be metal. I thought is was great that i had an extra set so when i take them off for inspection after a year i would already have the gaskets! Anyway do we not want to use the gaskets that come with the Barr set? Do i need to change to the metal style? Seems Barr would/should supply usable gaskets?
 

jtm3

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
32
I used OEM risers and manifolds and as Lou C states above the instructions are pretty specific to Not use any sealant. Here is a photo with the statement.
 

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Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
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11,854
When I bought the Barr manifolds and elbows I emailed Barr about using sealer and the tech guy said to use their gaskets and just use Permatex Aviation sealer on them. I did as he advised and so far so good. You can use the later Volvo gaskets if you like, but I think the Barr ones are fine too. I also got an extra set with mine! Here in the salt pond we usually inspect the manifold/elbows from 5-7 years or sooner if we see leaks at the joint where that gasket is. I'll see how long we get from these.
 

monster1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
87
I went over this same issue last year. I bought the Barr Manifolds, Risers, Gaskets and hardware as a kit. They arrived with the sealing surfaces painted as well. After much research and unnecessary agony, I finally came to the conclusion that I needed to use a flat file and slowly knock the paint and high spots off the sealing surfaces. Done properly, you are left with a completely flat manifold surface ready to be mated to the heads and risers to manifolds. Use the supplied gaskets. They are of good quality. Do not trust the green ones that are sold by third parties. They are called green leakers for a reason. Ask me how I know. There is a tech bulletin out from volvo. They now recommend using permatex copper seal-a-gasket on the riser gaskets only. Do not use sealant on the manifold to head gaskets. Those gaskets go on dry. Torque manifold bolts 20-25ft lbs. Riser bolts to 30ft lbs. Make sure you use a cross tightening pattern torquing to half spec on the first pass. Follow up to full spec on the second. Run the engine through several heat cycles and recheck your torque specs on all bolts. Done.
 
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