Help ! Volvo penta v8 2000 ?

[mtntrogger]

Hello friends, I am desperately in need of some guidance and am hoping someone on here can help put me on the right track.
I recently bought a new used boat that has a Volvo penta engine which has been giving me some problems. So the engine decal on the fuse/relay cover on the engine says its the 5.0 GLPEFS model, However the previous owner told me that the engine was replaced in 2016 with a crate motor. He said that the new engine is the 5.7 not the 5.0. It is painted black/charcoal not red so its possible that this is a 2000 vintage motor. Can anyone help me with the ID of the engine ? It has a holley carb on it, which I believe is a 2 barrel.

The engine seems to not be getting fuel. It isnt very easy to cold start, generally requires several attempts. Usually, if I disengage the transmission and move the throttle lever all the way forward, I can get it to fire. Ive only had it out a few times, but once its running, it performs very well. Tons of power and also putts around at low speed very comfortably. The last couple of times out, it stalled out after being out for a short while and would not restart.

After getting a tow back to the dock, I attempted to see what was going on. I tried to spray starting fluid into the carb while my buddy tried cranking the key, She would fire for a second, but wouldnt stay running. The Marina mechanic took a quick look also. He had me "prime" the throttle while cranking, he was looking into the carb and noted that there was no fuel coming in.

I know these problems can be electrical sometimes. Since the engine (supposedly) has only 50 hours I wouldnt presume that the pump would already be failing (IF it was replaced with the engine). I attempted to test the relay near the fuel pump with a voltmeter....but honestly am not sure what I should be probing and what reading I should be looking for. From what I can tell the pump is getting power. This leads me to believe that the pump is the only possible solution. I just dont want to throw money at this thing haphazardly. Im hoping someone on here can help me out with what/how to test/diagnose this and also how to positively ID this motor. Thanks very much for any input, I really appreciate you guys

 

[Scott Danforth]

2nd post in 5-1/2 years?

first, with a carb, please describe what you are doing step by step.

if the marina mechanic says there is no fuel coming in I would start there. one of the things needed to keep the fuel flowing is to make sure you have oil pressure. there is an oil pressure switch that shuts off the fuel pump if there is no oil pressure

next, look up the wiring for the GLPEFS. here is a link to on-line manuals http://162.144.28.33/lib/library.html

there should be a fuel pump fuse

however if you properly tested the fuel pump feed and you have power, it may be the pump. pumps go bad....it happens.

post a few more times and then you can post pics. post a pic of the pump.

as far as identifying the engine, if it was changed, get the casting number off the back of the block, just below the starboard head. you can look over the valve cover and see it.

 

[mtntrogger]

Thanks for the help Scott ! I will make a few more posts, and hopefully get some pics up asap.
Wouldnt the engine at least start momentarily if the oil pressure switch wasnt working ?

At the moment I cant even get her to start. I will check that fuse.

I am not sure that I properly tested the connector. I just probed the connector with a voltmeter, it showed voltage so I assumed it might be getting power.

Since it didnt spit any gas into the carb when I moved the throttle lever (with the key off) I am wondering if it could be the pump. I am under the impression that a working pump will spit a small amount of gas into the carb when the throttle lever is moved forward without turning the key. Is this not correct ?

Thanks for the info about how to ID the engine, I am going to have a look at it in a few minutes.

 

[mtntrogger]

Im not sure if I will be able to ID the engine from where you mention Scott. I just removed the interior to access the block below the exhaust. Its pretty much impossible to access the back of the engine without pulling it. I could get my head all the way down near the oil pan and starter but cant get around the back side. Is there any other way to correctly Id ? Would the intake manifold stamp have any relevance ? I got the fuel pump part number but am hesitant to spend the $200 on it if this isnt my problem. Is there anyway to further diagnose the pump ? I was considering removing the fuel line from the carb and the coil from the distributor then cranking it over to see if if pumps any gas out. Would this be effective in diagnosing a bad pump ? I realize it is possible that this could be a few different things. I dont think a fuse is a possibility since it was running decent, then just didnt want to restart, which it did momentarily before restalling and needing to get towed in. I would just like to get this issue isolated, and am wondering what else could have caused this besides the pump ? Thanks for any insights

 

[jimmbo]

The accelerator pump should squirt a small amount of fuel into the venturi when the throttle is opened.
Plugged filters and/or water separator, stuck closed Anti-syphon valve, can rob the engine of fuel

 

[mtntrogger]

Thanks jimmbo ! Is there a way for me to check or clean the separator filter or anti syphon valve ?

 

[mtntrogger]

How often do those separator filters need to be changed ? Can it be bypassed temporarily to check it its clogged ?

 

[mtntrogger]

Would using a hand primer bulb connected to the fuel line where it goes into the water separator filter tell me anything ?

 

[mtntrogger]

Block has 880 stamped on its side near the starter. The intake manifold has 3856270 stamped on it, the exhaust manifold has 3857402 on it. I don t see any filter other than the water separator. Im gonna start with that. I just had one sent overnight express. It has a sierra 18 7789 on it. Thoughts anyone ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

need the casting number off the back of the block. just below the rear of the cylinder head on the embossment for the flywheel housing. only viewed from teh top of the motor. use your phone to take a pic. reference pics below

that will identify the block which will identify the motor. the other parts are what came off the 5.0 and also used on 5.7

 

[Scott Danforth]

BTW, if it is a true "880" block (only verifiable with casting number) then its a 1996-1999, vortec 5.7 block casting number 10243880

 

[mtntrogger]

I managed to get the last 4 digits. The rest are hidden under the coil and throttle cable mounting bracket. The last 4 are 1256.
At this point the most helpful thing would be if someone could guide me through properly testing the electrical connection. I need to figure out if this is being caused by the pump itself , something electrical related or some type of cloggage (either in the filter, pump, lines or tank). I know someone out there can get me through this.

 

[Scott Danforth]

according to mortec http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

1256 is the starting numbers for the LS motors.

you may want to get the whole number

 

[mtntrogger]

Thanks Scott, I will try to remove the throttle cable bracket and the coil so I can get a better look at the casting number. I just didnt think knowing exactly what motor I have is going to help me troubleshoot the immediate issues. I am going to attempt to retest the fuel pump relay and connector today. I might also try to disconnect the fuel line at the carb to see if it is pumping any gas. I really hope I dont end up going down the rabbit hole here, sorta wish I would have left it at a marine shop. I just hope this doesnt turn into another 10 page thread of me battling for information. Thanks again to Scott and jimmbo for popping in here. I will post results this afternoon.

 

[mtntrogger]

So I have a few results to post. First, I retested the wiring at the relay. All seems well. I had 12 volts when connected the voltmeter to the 12 volt and ground terminals. With the key off,the output terminal had .7 volts (pretty much nothing) when the engine is being cranked (I did this with the coil disconnected not on muffs) I got a reading of 9.7 volts from the out put wire. I presume this is enough to power the pump. I reinstalled the relay, then tested the connector that plugs into the pump. I got 12 volts at the positive terminal on that plug. This leads be to believe that the problem is not the relay or electrical related. So I removed the fuel line from the carb and cranked over the engine again, still no gas coming out. Im thinking the issue must either be the pump, filter or some blockage somewhere. Ive already bought a new filter and pump. I will start with the filter. If that doesnt do it I will move on to the pump. I was just hoping to be able to return it.

 

[Insomnium]

So I have a few results to post. First, I retested the wiring at the relay. All seems well. I had 12 volts when connected the voltmeter to the 12 volt and ground terminals. With the key off,the output terminal had .7 volts (pretty much nothing) when the engine is being cranked (I did this with the coil disconnected not on muffs) I got a reading of 9.7 volts from the out put wire. I presume this is enough to power the pump. I reinstalled the relay, then tested the connector that plugs into the pump. I got 12 volts at the positive terminal on that plug. This leads be to believe that the problem is not the relay or electrical related. So I removed the fuel line from the carb and cranked over the engine again, still no gas coming out. Im thinking the issue must either be the pump, filter or some blockage somewhere. Ive already bought a new filter and pump. I will start with the filter. If that doesnt do it I will move on to the pump. I was just hoping to be able to return it.

Hook a bulb up to the fuel hose the comes from the tank to the pump. Put on a small piece of hose and pump some fuel into a clean dry clear container. Get an idea of what's actually coming up from your tank, could have crud in it..

Install the new filter. Dump contents of old one into a clean, clear dry container and inspect it.

Next hook the fuel line up back to the pump and disconnect the line to the carb and use put the end of the line into a clean, dry, clear container. Key on (do not crank). The fuel pump should start to prime and send fuel into the container. Take a look at how its going in, any crap? Water? If its clean and looks good and is making it to the carb , check the carb inlet screen for blockages. If that looks good and you think its filling the bowl, pump the accelerator pump and look down inside to see if it spraying nice and strong and not dribbling. If its dribbling its time to rebuild the carb and accelerator pump. (if you truly have a 5.7 and only a 2 barrel, I would look into a 4 barrel carb, 2 is pointless on a 5.7 IMHO)

Also give the fuel hose from the pump to carb a good feel. Could have flattened out or pinched off spots that get worse under heat and increased pressure. Just had that problem myself. Had a bad old hose.

Of course do all of this with a reliable fire extinguisher or three within arms reach as always.