Volvo Penta 4.3 gl-b knocking!!!! New guy here.... please help!

[T2fjdude]

Hi guys.

So. I got a free 2003 Crownline 180 br from some friends of the family. We live in FL. It has a 2003 Volvo 4.3 gl-b, and hasn’t been run in 7 years....!! I know... I got it home and went through the motions. Changed oil, impeller, thermostat, all old GAS, and flushed everything. The engine has maybe 50 hours on it. After several attempts, I got it to fire. On the initial run it had a. Knock consistent with idle rpm. Silly me... I wanted to see it the propeller and drive worked so I engaged the drive(the knock increased) then I heard something break and the engine died. It would not restart. I waited 20 min and tried again. It fires riht up consistently now ( with good oil pressure) but it has a hard knock no matter what. I m new to the boating world..... is this an engine rebuild? Or possibly a drive gimble issue. I would really appreciate any advice before tearing into thing for an engine rebuild/ replacement. This is all new to me.... plaese help!

 

[Scott Danforth]

First pull the drive, run without the drive to see if its the drive or engine

 

[mikemj]

first make sure the drive is down ,if not the u joints in the drive will be hitting

 

[89retta]

Did you have water hooked up to it when you ran it ?

 

[T2fjdude]

Hi guys. Thanks so much for the quick response. The drive is stuck full up and won't trim down. Future issue I thought. Also I had it running with the fresh water flush attached to my garden hose. Any chance this could be the issue???

 

[T2fjdude]

Is there a way to make the drive go down without hydraulic power?

 

[89retta]

Is there a way to make the drive go down without hydraulic power?

Remove the 2 bolts connecting the rams to the leg and let the leg down. Once that is done start the engine and see if noise is gone. Hose hooked up to the flush is ok but running it with the drive up is not good. Also after you do that work on the tilt/trim to get it working.

 

[T2fjdude]

Thanks again! I will try that today. I'll keep you posted.

 

[T2fjdude]

Okay. So I figured out the trim issue. Turns out it was a relay. I swapped them and it worked fine. Ones I got it down I hooked up the water and got her started. Still had a bad knok. I'm almost certain it spun a bearing. Also oil and water was coming out of the outdrive somewhere around the bellows, but I couldn't really tell.

assuming this is a bad motor, can I swap in a chevy vortec v6 from the same series? All of the outer accessories are still like new as far as I can tell. Can I just pop in a short block? Thanks again! Any suggestions are welcome.

 

[monster1]

Assuming your engine is beyond repair or rebuild, yes. You can swap the block. It needed to be an actual marine engine, not just one at the local autozone. These engines are built to different specs than ones built for the road. Depending on what the issue is, you could possibly just have your current engine repaired or rebuilt but that's something left to a pro.

 

[SunkenShip2]

Maybe you could just buy a crank kit? My local machine shop now provides this type of repair and wouldn't cost much IF ou do the work yourself. However, if that engine only has 80 hours on then it has been sitting way too long and the rust has been forming over the years while sitting and got into the bearings. Guys ^^^ are right though, pull that outdrive off and run the engine on the water hose and see if the knock is gone. Might also bring someone over that knows engines and have them listen to it first to confirm your suspicions....then get to work.

 

[T2fjdude]

Update. I to the motor out and it was what I suspected. The number three connecting rod had spun a bearing.so. I disassembled the motor and it looks brand flipping new...! No cooked oil and the original ink markers from the factory are quite visible. The rod crapped a bolt and punctured the oil pan... I have a new one (don’t worry). So. Ive ordered a complete rebuild kit, new rods, marine gaskets etc. my question is do I have to have the cylinders hoaned? This ewall look immaculate and this damn thing only has 10 Hours. I’m guessing my lack of priming the SOB was the problem, but you cant blame a guiy for trying lol. The new crack is in and the clearances are perfect. I just want to know if I have to hoan it. I don’twa to pul the crak and bearings again; but I assumed I didn’t have to to begin with. Any advice? Also, the oil pan I got came from a truck, the level sensor port is stil threaded. Is there an easy delete for this? Or do I need to buy the sensor and leave it disconnected? Thanks again!! I’m loving this stuff. I cant wait to get her out on the water!!!

 

[T2fjdude]

DAMN about correct. Sorry guys.

 

[T2fjdude]

Atuo.......ughhhh!