Prop shaft end play

[blex]

Anyone have experience with prop shaft end play? I have a 2007 DPS-A with what I think is excessive end play. I removed the outdrive to change bellows, touch up paint, etc, and noticed the movement in the front prop shaft. It moves a hair over 1/8 inch, but less than 3/16. I can’t believe this is normal.

I don’t think this has anything to do with it, but I did have to change the input shaft seal (the shaft from u-joint to drive), which required removing the carrier. I installed a new crush sleeve, set the rotational torque on carrier to shaft, and reused the same carrier shim. It vacuum and pressure tested good afterwards.

While painting, I had it tilted with skeg up (not completely upside down, more like on its side with the skeg high). Though I highly doubt it, but could something have slipped out of place?

Note, this is with the props removed, and no gear oil in the unit. Seems the same issue whether in neutral, forward, reverse.

I haven’t researched the service manual yet, so you are my first go to for advice on course of action. Any suggestions? Again, DPS-A.

I tried to post a 10 sec video of the movement, may/may not work.

Thanks all.

[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oi6ESsEEL1suOmV5eap87h5rtntXgMv9/view?usp=sharing[/video]

 

[Thalasso]

I have a 2007 DPS-A and have no play in either of them. I would refill the drive and see if you still have the play

 

[muc]

There should be NO end play. There isn't anything that could have fallen out of place without disassembling the lower gear case. The u-joint repair wouldn't affect this.
I wouldn't bother refilling the drive. It needs to be disassembled to find out whats wrong.

 

[blex]

Muc, that is what I thought.

So for first steps, to get it apart, does it require special tools? If so, any home made workarounds? Any tips I need to know before I disassemble? Guess I will be reading the manual after all.

 

[muc]

Read manual #47701863 very closely before you start disassembly.
I have no idea of your skill level, but this job usually is done by the most senior tech in the shop.
Your problem is pretty rare and it will be important to determine what caused it. Keep in mind that the end play in this shaft is a symptom, and to do a lasting repair you will need to know what caused it. And this will most likely be done during the initial disassembly. If you take it apart and are unable to find the cause, it will be very difficult for the next tech.
Unless you have rebuilt a few of these drives before or at the very least done a lot of differentials and fully understand rolling torque, backlash and how to read tooth contact patterns. This job is probably best left to a pro.

If if you do decide to take to a shop. Vet that shop carefully, not all Volvo dealers (and almost none of the non dealer shops) will have the special tools and knowledge to do this job right. What can happen is the shop will claim they are capable and after disassembly they figure out their over their head and tell you that a reman or new drive is needed. Now what could have been a few hundred $ job goes into the thousands.

 

[blex]

Thanks for the advice. I've done some diffs, and do understand backlash, rolling torque, etc., but I might talk to some dealers to "feel them out" before I undertake. Has no one on this forum disassembled/reassembled one? Looking for that person to coach me along!!

I have the "Volvo Penta SX-A and DPS-A Workshop Manual for Sterndrive and Transom Shield". It has "Publ. 7746477 English 06-2008" on the bottom of each page. It does not have a manual number on the title page.

Is that different than the one you recommend? What is the difference? Is there something in the one you rec that is not in mine?

Thanks a bunch.

 

[muc]

The number I posted is the newest p/n with a copyright of 09/2017
Not sure what has changed other than the newest covers more models like the forward drive.
I'm guessing you will be OK with what you have.
Read your manual and I can answer any questions you have.
What I can't do is anything that might infringe on a Volvo Penta copyright or patent.

 

[blex]

I read all of the sections on rebuilding the lower unit. I understand it all and think I could do it if I had the special tools required. I have a press, micrometers, dial indicators, etc, but it looks like that's not enough. Very tempting to pull the prop shafts and carrier and have a look inside, but I will abstain!

So, I called several VP shops in my area, and finally talked to one who I feel somewhat comfortable with, who assured me they have done several. They are ok with me only bringing in the lower unit, while some of the others wanted the whole outdrive, or even for me to reinstall the drive back on the boat to bring in (no thanks). I plan to pull the transmission off and take it to the shop in the next day or so.

Thanks for the advice and offer to help. I'll post again when we figure it out.

 

[muc]

There are ways around almost all of the special tools.
I wouldn't recommend it because of how time consuming it would be. But it could be done.

 

[blex]

Sorry, forgot to follow up with results.

I ended up taking the lower unit to a dealership so their VP trained techs could assess. The roller bearing race had spun and damaged the carrier. All was replaced. I had recently purchased this boat, so previous owner must have neglected somehow. Tech said gears, propshafts, and all looked ok. I reassembled outdrive with new seals, pressure/vacuum tested, and then reinstalled. I filled and drained lower unit oil about 4 times, running on hose about thirty minutes each. Been running flawless all summer.

Hindsight, I should have caught this problem before purchase, but I escaped what could have been a more substantial cost I believe. Not sure an independent surveyor (I did not use) would have caught this, and also, at what price of used boat does one hire a surveyor, vs do the best you can with your experience. I guess it’s all relative.

As a side note, and for those who try to do as much as you can yourself, I had called a few dealerships, most didn’t seem too eager to listen 2 minutes for the details of my situation, and certainly wouldn’t accept me unloading just a lower unit onto their workbench. They wanted me to reinstall it, bring the whole boat, and they would then charge me to assess it starting from that point. I finally found a place willing and able. Lucky me there are a few qualified shops within 80 miles from me, central TX.