holley 2 bbl question

gumbyaz

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Dec 28, 2016
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Have had my boat for about a year - 4.3GL-J, with the stock holley 2 barrel carb. I get some sooty residue along the water line at the back of the boat, and plugs look a little sooty when I pulled them out to inspect, so was guessing that the idle might be a hair rich. Looking at the carb though, there are some sort of caps installed over the idle air adjustment screws on the sides of the metering block, and the metal was punched down a little bit over the caps so that they will be real hard to remove. Is this some sort of california thing to prevent people from changing settings? Any way to remove without damaging other things?
 

Redtruck12

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 25, 2018
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Used to be a common (for me ) thing back in the days when cars still had carburetors.
the caps are there to deter the "average Joe" from seeing a screw and turning it withou knowledge of what it does I think.
normally you need to remove the carb to "de cap" it and as I recall, on Holley 2bbl you had to cut a small slit in the aluminum to get behind the cap and chisel it out carefully with a fine tipped chisel.
holley carbs in general are famous for needing a rebuild every couple of years. Rebuild is quite straightforward and a rebuilding kit is likely cheap and available.
 

kenny nunez

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I bet that is a car carberator. I never saw a idle mixture screw cover on a marine engine. Does it have the “down turn” bowl vent tubes? If not, get the correct marine version.
 

gumbyaz

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Dec 28, 2016
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I bet that is a car carberator. I never saw a idle mixture screw cover on a marine engine. Does it have the “down turn” bowl vent tubes? If not, get the correct marine version.

My carb knowledge isn't high enough yet to be sure on that one - is that the upside down U-shaped tube that ends above the choke flap? If so - yes, it has it. The numbers stamped on the carb are:

3887686
75029-3
0458

Top number is a volvo OEM number if google serves me well, but not the same number as in Volvo's parts lookup when I go in the GL-J engine section.

Any advice on finding the right carb rebuild parts kit? I tried the 75029-3 number on Holley's website and get nothing, and Volvo's parts lookup says obsolete and leads me to a Sierra kit. Worth a shot? I like to stick to OEM parts if possible, so Holley would of course be preferred if I could find it.
 

gumbyaz

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Dec 28, 2016
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nevermind that last part - looked at the volvo parts lookup again and realized the replacement part for the obsolete one is right under it, and can readily buy it. All good. Just need to figure out how to chisel that cover out now once I pull it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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You obviously didnt look hard enougn. Its a holley 300 cfm carb.

You can buy a rebuild kit for under $30
 

gumbyaz

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Dec 28, 2016
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Scott - $30 is way better than the $50-60 for the volvo labeled kit. Any reco on how to make sure I pick the right kit since I can't find my carb number in the Holley list? Or is there no major difference? I see a couple 2 barrel kits in their Marine Renew section of their website. 703-36, 703-41, 703-49, 703-30, 703-51. First time doing this - just need a nudge in the right direction.....thanks!!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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90% sure its renew kit 3-888. take a picture of the complete air-horn. there are numbers on the other side of the choke horn that will be needed to confirm.

the renew kits you listed are for the 350 cfm 2300 carb. each one has a slightly different calibration (jets, etc), however most of them would work.

however lets get you the correct renew or trick kit.
 

gumbyaz

Seaman Apprentice
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Dec 28, 2016
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Thanks again Scott - on the other side of the choke it has 6R 3250 B stamped into it. Is this the number you were looking for?
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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12,965
My 2002 VP 5.7 with the Holley 2300 had the plastic limiters on the mixture screws, they just slide off. Mine are sitting in the bottom of a landfill now.
As for Holley Renew kits, PART# 703-36 is the one listed in the Holley book for the marine 500cfm. It does come with a couple of power valves, so beware and make sure to use one with the same open/close value
 

skydiveD30571

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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,042
My GL-H has the same caps. EPA thing as stated above. I just carefully used a drill bit to put a hole in it big enough to get a flat blade screwdriver in. If you do it, go nice and slow.
 

gumbyaz

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Dec 28, 2016
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Finally finished with the rebuild. The 703-36 kit ended up being the correct one - had all the key parts, including the 2.5 power valve (also contained a 4.5 for the bigger engines) and the correct fuel inlet valve. Only thing that was slightly off was the gasket that goes under the throttle body to the mounting block on the intake - the volvo OEM one is slightly wider and matches perfectly to the mounting block. One of the Holley ones supplied in the kit probably would have worked, but I just ordered a volvo one to get everything perfect.

The idle adjustment caps on mine were steel, and were staked down in four places. I used a sharp chisel to whittle away at those staked spots, then used a grinding disc on a dremel to cut a slot. Once I barely broke through the metal with the dremel, I was able to put a screwdriver in and spin/pop the cover out.
 

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jimmbo

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I've never seen those caps/plugs on a Holley, All my Holleys(marine and auto) have, or rather had, the plastic limiter caps.
 
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