Bought new to us Glastron SX195. A week later, Marina says block is cracked????

[KevinToledo]

Bought a mint, low hour 2004 Glastron SX195 with 220hp VP 5.0 GL-E and SX-M 1.6 drive. Water tested for about a 1/2 hour, all was fine. I took the boat the next week after purchase to a local VP authorized dealer for outdrive service, impeller, oil change, etc. Got the boat back, 1st time on lake above 4k RPM the temps were coming up. After about 2 min above 4k RPM, got close to 200 degrees and the alarm came on. Slowed down right away and the alarm went off and temps backed down to about 180. When I ran it back up, temps started rising again. Took it back to marina and they water tested boat and said it was fine at first then on way back in, temps were going up and they suggested a thermostat. After they replaced the thermostat and water tested, they said that the temps were still coming up. They allegedly ran clear hoses off of the pump and said that there was a lot of air in the big hose between the circulating water pump and the thermostat housing. Then they inspected both sides of the block and saw what they are alleging a "crack in the block" and that this must be what the problem is. There is no water in the oil, the boat runs great, just is getting hot now at higher RPM, and this crack looks more like a crack in the paint not a thru crack in the block. Thoughts? I will be getting a second opinion.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Find a different repair shop,...

I'd sooner think ya got an air leak in the water line from the outdrive, to the raw water pump,...

Has the raw water pump impeller been changed,..??

 

[Thalasso]

alleging a "crack in the block" and that this must be what the problem is?

Time to find another service dept.
No problem until the impeller service? Duh
They allegedly ran clear hoses off of the pump and said that there was a lot of air in the big hose?

 

[KevinToledo]

Yes, they did the impeller service. The boat sat in heated storage for 3 years prior to my purchase. I have all of the records and all maint. had been done. So I am not sure what the proper diagnostic is but they told me that the water pressure looked good in the clear hose from the drive to the therm housing. When they put the clear hose on (removed the 2 in diameter hose) between the water pump and thermostat housing they said it had a bunch of air indicating an air leak somewhere. They visually inspected the block and showed me a spot where there is a small horizontal crack in the paint about 2 in long and said that is a crack in the block. I am not an idiot. This does not look like a crack. This boat was spotless to the point you could eat off the bilge. They said they put in a 150 degree thermostat but that the temp is still rising up to 195, close to 200 so this paint crack must be a block crack and it's probably worse inside. If this were the case, wouldn't I have a running issue and or a smoking issue out of the exhaust. If a water jacket was damaged, wouldn't there be additional evidence? I think they fudged something up in either their out drive service or impeller service. I should have asked to see the original impeller when I got the boat back to determine if a chunk of that had sent itself through... Here we go.. Thanks guys

 

[KevinToledo]

Bondo, they claim there was no air between the drive and the housing when they put the clear hose on. Frustrating..

 

[KevinToledo]

No Title

The supposed crack

 

[kenny nunez]

Try this, Get some clear hose the same size as the ones from the thermostat housing to the exhaust manifolds and just splice in a few inches with some pipe and run it to see if there is any air bubbles coming out of the engine. If the head gaskets are leaking you will see the bubbles. Also connect a garden hose to these same hoses going to the manifolds and test each one for any blockage before you water test the boat. There should be no back pressure. Good luck

 

[89retta]

I cant see a crack in the pic. Thinking they screwed up installing the impeller

 

[KevinToledo]

On a side note, the boat runs all day long at a cool 150-160 on the muffs or on the water accessory hose to the pump. Just heats up under load.

 

[RCSConstruction]

I see something. Hard to tell if a casting line or not.
If no water in the bilge, no water in the oil, and the plugs all read correctly, then how is it causing a heating problem and air bubbles, is a question I would ask.

 

[dypcdiver]

Look, that is external of the block water jacket, when it overheats a small amount of pressure should build up and you would see a trace of leakage. I see no evidence of that. Furthermore an external crack will not cause overheating, it would just leak. The volume of water passing through is what I would be checking.

 

[kenny nunez]

Hopefully the pump is the problem. A leaking head gasket will build cooling system pressure that turns to steam and creates an air bubble. I do not buy the "cracked block" excuse either.

 

[dannyual767]

On a side note, the boat runs all day long at a cool 150-160 on the muffs or on the water accessory hose to the pump. Just heats up under load.

That right there says that there is no cracked block causing this overheating issue! You don't have water in the oil either.

I couldn't see a crack in your picture but if there was a crack in the outside of the block, I would think that you'd have water leaking/dribbling out of the crack.

Like others have said, I think the mechanics messed something up.

FWIW, I had a similar overheating problem about 2-3 months ago. Same engine as yours and same outdrive. My raw water pump had a bad seal and was leaking water. It was also sucking air at the bad seal. Volvo Penta says that these raw water pumps are not rebuildable and they'll gladly charge you $411 for a new one. They are quite rebuildable and many of us have done just that. After replacing the bearing and seal in the raw water pump, my boat no longer has the overheating issue. On the other hand, you didn't mention anything about water leaking out of your raw water pump so I don't really think that is your problem. Just thought I'd mention it just in case.

 

[KevinToledo]

dannyual767, we got the boat back from the marina. It's dripping water (not pouring) from the raw water pump seal. I can't imagine this drip would cause the overheating the way that it is? On a side note, on the muffs or accessory water intake hose, the boat runs 150-160 but the large hose from the low side of the circulation pump to the thermostat housing feels hot. Risers and manifolds checked out ok!.

 

[KevinToledo]

what is the procedure to pressure test the block?

 

[RCSConstruction]

dannyual767, we got the boat back from the marina. It's dripping water (not pouring) from the raw water pump seal. I can't imagine this drip would cause the overheating the way that it is? On a side note, on the muffs or accessory water intake hose, the boat runs 150-160 but the large hose from the low side of the circulation pump to the thermostat housing feels hot. Risers and manifolds checked out ok!.

Your temp is taken right where that hose leads, so unless your temp gauge is wrong, that hose is 150-160.. haha

 

[89retta]

dannyual767, we got the boat back from the marina. It's dripping water (not pouring) from the raw water pump seal. I can't imagine this drip would cause the overheating the way that it is? On a side note, on the muffs or accessory water intake hose, the boat runs 150-160 but the large hose from the low side of the circulation pump to the thermostat housing feels hot. Risers and manifolds checked out ok!.

If its dripping at idle on the muffs its probably pouring out when your running at the lake . On the lake your working the motor harder and the revs are higher. More stress and heat. If its possible take it for a run on the water and have some one watch or video the leak.

 

[bajaunderground]

Replace impeller (the kit should come with an "O' ring that seals the air from the water). If there's no bubbles between intake and seawaater pump, but air between the seawater pump and thermostat housing, the seawater pump is the culprit. I had left out a bolt that introduced air to the cavity (didn't seal, was on bottom took forever to figure out), replaced with a cheapo after market seawater pump (ebay, type) and have not had one episode of overheating (100+hours in 2 seasons). I have the original pump I plan on rebuilding, and extra impellers in the boat (JIC)...

That's where I would start

 

[dannyual767]

dannyual767, we got the boat back from the marina. It's dripping water (not pouring) from the raw water pump seal. I can't imagine this drip would cause the overheating the way that it is? On a side note, on the muffs or accessory water intake hose, the boat runs 150-160 but the large hose from the low side of the circulation pump to the thermostat housing feels hot. Risers and manifolds checked out ok!.

My engine was most definitely overheating because of my dripping raw water pump! That dripping is a bad raw water pump seal! The bad seal might have taken out the bearing as well. I think that the leaking seal allows air to be drawn into the cooling system and you lose suction on the raw water line coming from the outdrive. The engine gets starved for cooling water and you overheat.

I tried to fix the problem by replacing the impeller. It was a total failure. Even my 11yr old daughter knew better than to head out on the lake with me for a test run! After overheating again with the new impeller, I had to shut the hot engine down and call my wife and have her jump on one of our WaveRunners and come and tow me back in to our dock. Yeah, my daughter was glad she didn't come with me!

This is one of the threads that I used to help me rebuild my raw water pump:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...aring-and-seal

Unfortunately, Photobucket no longer offers "free" account users to "3rd party host" so all the pictures from the OP have been removed by Photobucket. However, there are at least a couple of youtube videos that also show how to rebuild Volvo's overpriced ($411 msrp :mad-new: !) raw water pump.

 

[dypcdiver]

Stop messing about, if pump is dripping the seal has gone. That same seal that leaks water, will leak air under suction ie. when you increase the revs, thus creating overheat conditions. Replace seal and bearing and go and have fun.