Gamefisher 9.9/15 hp from 80's ignition repair-retrofitting

[submariner1980]

Many people have these motors with "NO SPARK" problem sitting in garages for the years. The motors are cheap on garage sales but parts to fix are NLA and pricy.
This way to make motor running I have to use over decade.
Let's start.
How it works: Gamefisher ignition is the CDI type ignition consist - the charging coil -facing toward flywheel magnets, the trigger coil - combined with CDM and facing toward the shaft , the triggering magnet with ignition advance and the spark coil. Gamefisher call's CDM as solid state ignition module and it is 99.99999999 % NO SPARK reason.
Flywheel magnets flying by the charge coil create the electrical current and charged capacitor in CDM. Small magnet on the white piece sitting on the shaft passing by trigger coil create the triggering pulse ta TDC and capacitor stored energy discharges thru the spark coil make the spark.

Top and bottom are CDM's left and right are charging coils.

 

[submariner1980]

Re: Gamefisher 9.9/15 hp from 80's ignition repair-retrofitting

Continue
Idea is to use auxiliary reliable CDI powered and triggered by existing coils. New CDM could be for 2 cylinder motor or two CDM for single cylinder. It's up to you. Or you can use homemade CDM schematic you can find in internet Silicon Chip Online - Replacement CDI Module For Small Petrol Motors
So, remove the flywheel, mark position of the magnetic cores and remove ignition assembly from the motor.
Note and mark wires to kill switch,and spark coils. Remove nuts under CDM and mark line around CDM slightly above trigger coil (3/8 " from the bottom of CDM. Use Dremel with cutting wheel and make a cut along the line. Do not go too deep with the cutting wheel (refer to the picture)
Put flat screwdriver in the cut and wage it will make upper cap pops up and open access to the circuit board.
Use any suitable tool (knife, Dremel, scalpel etc)to cut copper conductor on the circuit board. See picture:
Note there are two cuts on the circuit board. One is near terminal bolt head (left upper) another one is clearly visible on the picture. Solder jumper wire as it shown on the picture. Now this terminal is the trigger pulse output.

 

[submariner1980]

Re: Gamefisher 9.9/15 hp from 80's ignition repair-retrofitting

OK I'm back.
Now we can shop for new ignition. I would recommend to use this CDM http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/cdi-50cc-2stroke-qmb.html
and spark coils http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/igco50hostsc.html
Get some wire with same color insulation as wires from CDM and make a new wire harness.
CDM wires pin out:
Plug with two wires tan - trigger pulse, black - ground. Run tan wire with ring terminal from left upper bolt, right one is the ground ( see pic #2)
GREEN - spark coil
BLACK - ground
RED - charging coil You need to cut off ring terminal from the charging coil wire which was connected to the old CDM and lengthen it with red wire enough to run it under flywheel to new CDM attached to the starboard of the motor.
RED/BLACK - kill switch Connect it directly to the existing STOP push button.
Do absolutely the same to the ignition of second cylinder. Make sure you are wired it right Charging coil and trigger pointed with red straw on this picture are for upper cylinder accordingly another pair is for lower.
Wrap all wires coming under flywheel in plastic tube, put back on the motor ignition armature, secure wire harness so it will not touch flywheel or shaft or interference with moving parts.
Check ignition advance mechanism and put on flywheel.
Use piece of angle aluminum or zinc steel for spark coils bracket mount it on the cylinders cover
Check spark with spark plugs and your motor ready to start.
IMPORTANT NOTES : All wire splices and connection to the terminals ends MAST BE solder and covered with shrink tube. NO crimp connection at all.
Wire terminals you can find on Ebay, wires from used computer tower harness.
Happy boating

 

[slowleak]

Re: Gamefisher 9.9/15 hp from 80's ignition repair-retrofitting

I'm not sure what your working on here but its nothing like any of the mid to late 80's Gamefisher motors I've ever seen, all of mine have two coils under the flywheel and a top mounted recoil.
I think what you have there is the earlier model Eska motor not a newer Force/Gamefisher.

 

[Motodad949]

If by any chance does someone have these pictures for this repair I’m in need of them. Thank you in advance