Coolant in oil

mklearl

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Thanks for the input. I think they cleaned up nice... no pock marks at all... followed the clean up instructions that came with the gaskets. I'll get the manifolds cleaned up and do the acetone test and put it back together and see what I got. Thanks again.
 

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Lou C

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I'm thinking you need to go more than that keep in mind you want the whole width of the area where the gasket sits, to be flat, clean and shiny metal. If you put em together like that, they will probably leak again.... photo285632.jpg
Here is a pic of my new manifold when installing back in Aug of '17....you want it to look like that, if you can't get it that good then take em to the machine shop. If I were doing it, I might put my Makita belt sander in a vise and hold the manifold carefully against it keeping it square, till that surface looks good.
 

Lou C

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here's a better pic, you want it like this, as much as you can get it.
I think on yours you still have old gasket material on it. Use a sharp razor blade to get it off, then wipe down with acetone or other solvent and see what you have. Gonna take some sanding though....Start with medium and go to fine, you want a nice smooth surface....
 

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alldodge

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Manifold surfaces sure look rough for 3 seasons

fetch
 

mklearl

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Yep... salt water. Taken off and reinstalled too... not by me. I don't have many good things to say about the mechanic who did the install... I'll leave it at that. I think I'll try cleaning it up and also get a quote from the machine shop. If all else fails I'll get new ones and be done with it. Thanks again.
 

Lou C

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Sounds like a good plan. And figure on keeping an eye on that manifold-to-elbow joint and if you see any sign of rust trails on the outside, there could be water leaking in on the inside....
I have owned our present boat since 2002 all in salt water. It is now on its 4th exhaust system, including the original one. I replaced those in 2004 not knowing how much more life they had. Then replaced that set in 2011. Latest set went on in 2017, by then the original design was discontinued so I had to look into adapting the center riser style used by both OMC and Volvo when they had the joint venture. As it turned out these fit perfect, I just had to buy those expensive Volvo 90* exhaust pipes that fit between the 4" elbow exits and the 3.5" Y pipe. It all fit perfect.....
 

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mklearl

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Looks good. If I go new I think I'll look into the tall risers like that just for extra security... pm not sure if they'll fit under my engine cover not am I sure that I want to redo the exhaust pipes. But well see.

I'd be happy with new exhausts every 6 seasons. 3 seems kind of short. Why do you think my manifolds look so rough? Performance hasn't suffered yet and I didn't notice any temperature increase.
 

alldodge

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Why do you think my manifolds look so rough? Performance hasn't suffered yet and I didn't notice any temperature increase.

Just guessing, but if water can drip on top the motor from the hatch, if there is a lot of fog, and since VP doesn't use exhaust flappers, the slow down can get more up the exhaust
 

Lou C

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Well I can tell you this....internally cast iron will rust up fast when exposed to salt water, that is why in areas like Fla with warm salt water and a full year season, elbows sometimes only last 3 years. Here, I had no trouble making mine go 6 years, and they still didn't leak even when tested at that point. However, I found that there was flaking at the top of the elbow portion of the one piece OMC manifolds and I was concerned that some of these flakes could fall down into the exhaust ports and into a cyl due to engine vibration.
And with the Barr manifolds, the casting quality is good but the paint quality was not so good. Mine started rusting just from condensation, no water leaks from the cover or anything. I sanded down the rusted areas, hit it with brushed on Rustoleum primer and then Rustoleum black. That has kept the rust from coming back.
 

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Scott Danforth

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Also, how much to machine both riser surfaces and manifolds. I paid around $1k for the Barre manifold and riser sets with bolts and everything. Is it cost effective to just get new manifolds and risers? Volvo gives an instruction booklet... yes, a booklet on installing riser gaskets. It doesn't say anything about getting them machined but does give the parameters for the surface but indicates this is something that could be done by the average Joe like me.

I hope your $1k price was including installation. usually a complete set of manifolds and risers and gaskets and hardware is about $600 for a set of BARR manifolds and about $500 for sierra.
 

mklearl

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I hope your $1k price was including installation. usually a complete set of manifolds and risers and gaskets and hardware is about $600 for a set of BARR manifolds and about $500 for sierra.

I don't know the exact cost... I known it was under $1k for everything. For some reason I want to say $800 or so.
show me a link to a set of Barr manifolds and risers for $600 and I'll buy them now.
Cheapest I've seen was $650 plus $100 in shipping.
I anxiously await the link. ;)
 

Lou C

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If you need a new set...try Partman (Lighthouse Marine) in Riverhead Long Island, I don't think it will be that cheap though, they do deliver...I think they have them on their site for about $709....You might do better if you can source them locally, the shipping is expensive because they are heavy. In any case, you got a nearly new engine there that deserves a good exhaust system. Bad or not maintained exhaust is the #1 cause of inboard engine failure, with overheating and over-propping.


First, test them with acetone, then if they pass, get a price from an auto machine shop to make those mating surfaces look like new. Then, you might get 3 years on them before the next replacement. The only way around it would be to install full closed cooling and that will work only if the Volvo raw water pump can flow enough water to cool the manifolds too. Since they did not offer that as a factory option as far as I know, my guess is that they felt it safer to just cool the engine. Of course there are probably conversions to higher capacity impellers, with a through the hull pick up, that could be done, but it all costs money.

Yet another option for the future, is to see if you can convert over to the Merc dry joint exhaust system. This design totally separates the exhaust gas passage and the water cooling passage, so you don't have such a concern with leaky gaskets. They can still rust through though like any other cast iron manifold in salt water. I considered this when I did my top end overhaul last year but I wasn't sure if the Merc elbow angle/length would match up with the OMC/Volvo style Y pipe. And the dry joint design is more expensive even in aftermarket. Next time if I can get an exhaust shop to lend me a manifold and elbow for a day, I might try it out. I went with these (Volvo style) because I knew they would fit.
 
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mklearl

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Yep. That's a good price and with shipping it just about matches the cheapest I've seen.

One other question has come up while searching... What makes these specific to Volvo? Is it the exhaust end where it fits into the exhaust u pipe? I ask this because this is sold as a crusader engine (it was waranteed through crusader) but my manifolds and risers were swapped over from my Volvo. It really shouldn't matter on the manifold fitting wise since both are the same GM blocks correct? I just want to make sure I wasn't using and I'm getting the correct manifolds and risers.
 

Bondo

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What makes these specific to Volvo? Is it the exhaust end where it fits into the exhaust u pipe?

Ayuh,..... That, 'n any accessory mountin' holes have to match yer Volvo accessories,....
 

mklearl

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Ayuh,..... That, 'n any accessory mountin' holes have to match yer Volvo accessories,....

But where the manifold meets the block should be the same regardless of whether or not it is a merc, Volvo, crusader or anything since they all use the same gm block, correct? I ask because with the kits there are different styles of manifold gaskets... Some have a thin strip of material in between the ports and others ate more rectangular gaskets with the port holes cut out of them which matches the Volvo OEM gasket.
just curious
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... The manifold to head connection is the same, everything else can be different,....
 

Lou C

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Where you will run into issues is that the angle, and length of the elbow outlet, must match up with the angle and position of the top of the Volvo Y pipe. So you have a combination of parts that all have to line up, ie:
the 4" elbow exit hose
the Volvo aluminum exhaust adapter that adapts from the 4" riser hose to the 3.5" hose to the Y pipe
the 3.5" hose from that adapter, to the Y pipe.

so lets say you used a Merc system, if the elbow exit was at a different angle, or shorter or longer than the Volvo OE, the whole works won't line up. It has all to do with the position of the Volvo Y pipe relative to the cyl head exhaust ports. You are correct any GM small block marine exhaust will bolt up to your cyl heads, but only the Volvo elbows, hoses and exhaust adapters will make that, line up 100% with the Y pipe, so it fits right and does not leak.

On my conversion it fit 100% perfect, I was lucky because the angle of the OMC Y pipe was the same as the ones used on the joint venture engines (1994-1998) where OMC and Volvo had basically the same product. All I had to get that was Volvo was the 90* 4" to 3.5" exhaust adapters and the hoses that fit them. These Volvo parts were expensive but my only other choice was the GLM copy of these, in fresh water that may have been fine but being in the salt you have to use the best quality stuff you can find.
 

mklearl

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Great... Thanks. Just wanted to make sure I had the right manifolds. I think I'm going to look into the taller risers and see what I need to raise the u pipe. Thanks again.
 
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