1983 Starcraft CSS181B w/ OMC 3.8L Stringer Drive - What would you do?

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
15
Hello My Name is Stanley. I have a 1983 Starcraft CSS181B w/ OMC 3.8L Stringer Drive. It has been in storage for several years and this summer my wife/daughter encouraged me to bring it out and get it running. I have owned the boat for many years. It was turned over to me from my father. It has always had pretty good care/maintenance. When it was last stored it was in good running order and I did the full winterization as per the owners manual. The reason it was not used for a while is the last time we took it out we hit a submerged stump and broke the quadrant gear off the out drive. We were able to get back to the dock since driving in forward held the outdrive against the stern but as you can imagine backing up was not so good. The outdrive would jump/raise up out of the water because there was nothing there to hold it down.

I do have a working knowledge of engine repair. I am an old shade tree mechanic and in my younger days would take apart and engine and put it back together without hesitation but that was quite a while ago. I still have the ability but I wonder if the case I am about to present if it is worth it?

So here is where I am at...
Pulled the boat out of storage and put it my drive way. Checked the battery and it is still OK. Most likely will replace if things go my way but it will do for now. I checked the engine over, plugs looked good, still very wet with fogging oil. Ignition wires, cap, rotor, points all looked good. Oil was changed right before storage so that looked OK as well.

When I tried to start all that I got was single click at the solenoid so I went through and checked everything with a multimeter and received the correct readings. I was able to turn the engine manually by spinning the pulley wheel on the crankshaft so engine was not frozen so I deduced it must be the starter. Pulled it and did a bench test and nothing, I could manually move the drive pinon in and out but nothing would move electronically. Took it to my local rebuild shop and sure enough it was frozen solid inside the case so I had it rebuilt for $80 put it back and TADA the engine turns over.

Emptied the gas tank and put in new fuel. I could not get the old fuel filter off so I replaced with a new Sierra Marine Fuel Water Separator Kit.

So now that it was cranking and I knew I had a good fuel supply (I did remember to add the lead additive to the no-lead gasoline and included a bottle of sea foam). So I put on the muffs/ears thingy that attaches to the hose and put it on the outdrive water intake and turned on the water.

It took a bit to get the fuel through the fuel pump and up to the carb and as you can imagine it smoked like heck and choked and puffed but after a few minutes of cranking is started, YES!

It did run rough for a bit but eventually smoothed out and after 30 minutes or so it would even idle in neutral.

It did run a little hot for a bit, up to 180 degrees but then settled down to about 120 degrees.

Well I thought I was on a good track, engine running, I was able to shift into forward and reverse. I was looking over the engine as it was running and noticed that I had not closed one of the winterizing water drain pet cocks fully so there was water dripping out of it down the side of the engine but a hard turn by hand and the dripping stopped.

Well I let it run for a couple of hours, Shut it down. Let it cool started again and all seemed fine until I decided to check the oil again and RATS. Milky White!!!!

ERRRRR, I know that is not good but I am not sure if it is a bad as it could be. Like I said the engine is running fine. I even pulled all the spark plugs and did a compression check. I just had a cheap hold in spark plug hole by had meter but I was able to get at least register 150 on every cylinder.

So now what to do???

I assume it must be a bad head gasket? Like I said I know engines pretty well but is there maybe another way the water got in the oil? Did the leaking pet **** valve somehow get water in? I have run the boat on the muffs many times before but never that long. Could that somehow be getting water in. The water pressure at my house is quite high. The plugs are still clean.

So now I have a 1983 boat/motor that needs maybe head gaskets and for sure a new upper housing.

I am not afraid to do the work but is it worth it? The rest of the boat is solid, Hull is good, No wood rot in any of the decking.

I am just not sure if I should invest the time and money or just consider a new engine/outdrive or even a whole boat?

Thanks in advance for you time, knowledge and advice.

I have attached some pictures for reference.
 

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southkogs

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Staff member
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Jul 7, 2010
Messages
14,796
Welcome aboard!

My opinions :watermelon::

If you're getting good compression, and everything seems to be working right, I would be tempted to change the oil and filter and go put the boat in the water to run for a bit. I'd stay where it was easy to get back to shore if something happened, but I'd put it under load and see what the oil did.

Is it worth a lot of work? That's up to you. It doesn't sound - even with a head gasket change - like it's too bad. BUT - you can't re-power that boat without completely rebuilding the transom. Because of the way a Stringer mounts vs even the later Cobras or a Volvo or Merc, the only thing that will go in the same spot is another Stringer. You're better off fixin' than repowering.

Replacing where the quadrant gear goes might be able to be welded if you have all of the pieces. That's not an area I know much about (welding) but it's possible I would think. But, finding a replacement upper isn't crazy either. I personally risked by used uppers in the past, but some folks don't like doing that.

If you want to avoid the hassle, and have the money to do so - looking for a whole new boat is surely an option. Though, right now they are selling like hot cakes, so great deals may be hard to find.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,557
only you can answer if the motor is worth it.

pressure check the cooling water jacket to see where its leaking from would be the first step.
 

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
15
Thanks for the thoughts and advice. I will try the pressure check of the cooling water jacket this weekend.

I am thinking the engine is worth it. I will bet it doesn't even have 300 hours on it total and probably much less. I know for a 1983 that seems impossible but it did spend much more time on the trailer than in the water. I do not have the quadrant gear, lost to the bottom of the lake but they are out there and not so expensive so if the weld is possible that may make things a whole lot brighter.

So pressure check of the cooling water jacket will tell me if it holds pressure. What is good/acceptable level. I watched a couple of you tube videos and one showed me 10 lbs and the other 20. I assume it should hold pressure steady, yes? I assume if it does not hold pressure and there is leak and I hopefully can find it by ear.

Thanks again and I will post back when I get the results.
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,670
Water cross over in intake manifold just below the thermostat is a common rot through or cracking spot. You drained the jackets to winterize not just sucking antifreeze through muffs?
 

SALT1961

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Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
15
I had never heard of sucking antifreeze through the muffs until my recent research in the last couple of weeks. So not knowing about it I did not do it.The OEM owners manual said that all I need to do was to open the 4 petcock valves and be sure to let all the water drain out. It does make sense to me now and will be part of my winterization procedure in the future of course hoping I will have the boat/engine that need it.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,075
I hate to tell you this but there is no way you will be able to re mount a quadrant gear since you do not have the one that is lost. I have seen them repaired with the one that broke off. Another thing that may have happened is the intermediate housing and upper gear housing could be distorted. If they are the ball gears will destroy each other.
With the drive removed put a piece of glass wide enough across the flat surfaces where the saddle caps were, if the glass sits flat and does not rock then the housing is good and you just need a replacement upper gear housing.
As far as the engine the above posts have it covered.
 

SALT1961

Cadet
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Messages
15
Well very busy weekend so no time to get to the water jacket pressure test. Hopefully will get to it this weekend.
 
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