Adding an In line Fuel Filter to Inboard motor

[KM7]

This is on a 91 4Winns with a 5.8 L Ford and OMC outdrive. The previous owner got water in the gas and that caused rust that got into the carb. So I replaced the fuel filter, rebuilt the carb and now I'm draining the fuel tank. There was some crud trapped in the screen at the carb intake and the screen was not sitting that well and it looks like crud was getting past it. That may have contributed to the crud in the carb. The carb rebuild shop saw black particles and told me i'm also having fuel line breakdown.

So, I'd like to be able to tell if there is crap in my fuel lines Before I have to rebuild another carb. I want to add an inline clear fuel line so I can see into it.

Anyone do that before? Any thoughts. These are common in automotive applications are some available for marine use?

I could cut the hardline coming up from the fuel pump to the carb (after the stock fuel filter) and splice in a clear fuel filter.'

Any thoughts on that?

 

[vasy]

If fuel lines are old, just replace them anyway. Cheap insurance as the new lines with be ethanol compatible.
I don't think clear filters comply with marine regulations, so installing them might create liability issues.
If you are doing it for temp troubleshooting, lots available on the local auto store. Just cut the rubber fuel line, not carburetor line.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If fuel lines are old, just replace them anyway. Cheap insurance as the new lines with be ethanol compatible.
I don't think clear filters comply with marine regulations, so installing them might create liability issues.
If you are doing it for temp troubleshooting, lots available on the local auto store. Just cut the rubber fuel line, not carburetor line.

No No No

Bad information

clear automotive fuel filters are a fire hazzard and should never be used on a boat

all fuel lines and filters need to be USCG approved or you blow up

the lines between the filter and pump and between the pump and the carb should be steel from the factory

the OP's boat should have a water separating filter on it between the fuel tank anti-siphon valve and the fuel pump

this is all that is required prior to the rock strainer he is showing on the pump inlet fitting.

kipmc7 if you dont have a proper marine water separating fuel filter prior to your fuel pump, iBoats sells them

do not and I repeat do not use a cheap plastic automotive fuel pump in a boat.

 

[KM7]

Thanks for all the input.
1) I have been using a marine grade water separating fuel filter and will continue to do so.
The lines are all stock, a hose into the filter and hard line out of filter to fuel pump and out of pump to carb.

2) I replaced all the hoses; 1 1/2 in fill hose, 5/8 vent and 3/8 line to filter with new marine grade hoses.

3) Drained all the gas (25 gallons) and took to the hazardous waste site for the city.

4) Replaced the gas cap that leaked with a new one with the screw in cap (and a new rubber seal)

I **Was** considering a marine quality water separating filter with a clear bowl and a drain that the sales person at the boat shop was showing me UNTIL I saw it is not applicable to inboard motors due to heat and possible flame. Wouldn't that be exciting. The plastic melts, releases gas and BOOM.

Just FYI 320R-RAC-01 Spin-On Fuel Filter/Water Separator, 10 Micron.

New question: Should I be concerned with crud in the bottom of the fuel tank? There was water in the fuel.

I could remove the tank if I had to.

Then should I, carefully, wash it out? (With what?) I would let it dry completely and reinstall.

And back to checking for water or sediment in the fuel in the future, since I'm not going to use the filter with the plastic bowl, How can I be certain my water and sediment/rust problems are behind me?

Thanks for all your help.

BTW the bad $60 gas cap cost me a carb rebuild $240 + 25 Gallons of gas $80 = $320 + all my time. On the bright side, it did get me to change all the fuel hoses and that was a good thing. Maybe the carb rebuild was due anyway : )

 

[Scott Danforth]

a carb rebuild should be $50 for the kit, a few cans of carb cleaner and a 6-pack of beer.

 

[Lou C]

I’ve used the Sierra or BRP filters for years without difficulty but if you want the best you can get the Racor with the metal bowl.

 

[KM7]

Does the Rancor allow checking for and draining water, and is it applicable for inboard engines?

Here is a Sierra that *looks* like it has a water drain and metal bowl: 18-7943 Fuel Filter for OMC Style, 10 Micron $80


@ Scott I've done a few carb rebuilds myself in the past but because I had multiple issues all at the same time (water in fuel, incorrect fuel air mixture, fouling plugs, sediment in carb, I needed to be very certain of the carb rebuild and let a pro do it : )

Besides a filter with a water drain. (if I can find one for an inboard engine) what else can I do to prevent and check for water or sediment in my fuel?

 

[Lou C]

Racor makes the style that has the metal bowl with drain plug for inboards. They make what is probably the best filter on the market, but that metal bowl is a pain to get off. I tried one and went back to the standard filters because they were adequate for my needs as I did not have a water or sediment in the gas issue.

 

[Lou C]

what came out of my water separating fuel filter....

 

[HT32BSX115]

Besides a filter with a water drain. (if I can find one for an inboard engine) what else can I do to prevent and check for water or sediment in my fuel?

Roll the boat outside and tip up the bow.

Remove your gage sender, get some clear vinyl hose, install a cheap ball valve on the other end of the clear hose, where it will be in the fuel container you're draining into. Get enough hose so it will reach from inside the tank to the ground where your helper will be holding the valve end.

Fill the hose (valve-closed) with gasoline for starting a siphon

Put a 18-24" piece of PVC pipe on the other end of the hose(that you're going to put in the gage-sender hole)

With the hose already full of fuel, a siphon will be easy to start (works better than trying to "suck" fuel with your mouth!!)

With the valve-end in a suitable container, place the PVC pipe-end of the hose in the gage hole and ensure it's submerged in the fuel/water mixture in the tank.

Have your helper open the valve and use your end like a vacuum to suction out all the fuel, water, debris and crud in the tank

If the container fills before you drain the tank, your helper can close the valve, switch containers without spilling a drop! And if you keep the pipe-end submerged, you will not lose the siphon!

If you use 3/4" or larger clear hose it will drain the tank pretty quickly and the flow rate will be such that it should get most of the debris and all of the water (water is heavier and sinks to the bottom of a gas tank)

If the fuel is good and you still have debris in the tank, you can pour it back in the tank (minus the water and debris) and do it all over until you get all the crud in the tank.

Do all of this OUTSIDE, NO SMOKING, battery charging or any other electrical stuff and have a fire extinguisher ready!!

I did this on a 44 gallon aluminum tank and I got everything out of the tank on the first try.

Tipping the bow up will slosh everything towards the back of the tank where the gage senders usually are.

If the gage sender is in the front, tip the bow down a little. Don't fill the tank all the way up or fuel will come out of the gage sender hole when you tip the bow.

Cheers,


Rick

 

[Lou C]

NICE Rick!
I did something similar during Hurricane Sandy here in NY. I already had a 15 gallon gas caddy, five 5 gallon cans and two 2.5 gallon cans. No electric for 2 weeks. Gas stations did not have power and fuel deliveries disrupted. F/W had 44 gallons in it still...so....just removed the rear seats....pulled out the sending unit....got my siphon pump and filled up most of my gas cans again. And had gas for the generator!

 

[HT32BSX115]

NICE Rick!
I did something similar during Hurricane Sandy here in NY. I already had a 15 gallon gas caddy, five 5 gallon cans and two 2.5 gallon cans. No electric for 2 weeks. Gas stations did not have power and fuel deliveries disrupted. F/W had 44 gallons in it still...so....just removed the rear seats....pulled out the sending unit....got my siphon pump and filled up most of my gas cans again. And had gas for the generator!

Yeah, we have similar power outages in the PNW once in a while. The boat is great for gasoline storage if you need it! I also have an airplane with a little over 40 gallons in it but I really don't like running the generator on leaded AVGAS (@5.00+/gal!!)

I replaced all my bulbs with LEDs and with a gas furnace, water heater and a couple of refrigerators! I can power everything with a 5500w gen!

 

[Lou C]

Same here we have nat gas heat, water heater, and stove. Can run everything in the house on the 5.000 watt Briggs generator except the central air and washer. Long Island is vulnerable to storms but we are lucky because we are elevated 100 ft above sea level so we don’t ever get floods. The majority of the South Shore of LI is 10 ft or less above sea level so they had bad flooding during Sandy...

 

[KM7]

At Rick, Thanks I did something like that but uses a $6 transfer pump from Harbor Freight. Drained ALL!! the gas out, about 35 gallons that had water in it. I was able to take it to a disposal site for free. By parking the boat at an angle on a slope I got all the gas to a corner and got every last drop of gas a sediment out. Turns out my fuel pump is dying so now I'm reading all about electric pumps. I did fid mine for $159 and may just do that.


Guys, I would like to hear the Pros ans Cons of an electric pump.

My boat was sometimes hard to start when it had sat for a while. I assume it was hard to get the fuel pump primed. Will that be an issue with an electric pump? If there is a oil pressure switch that keeps the pump off till there is oil pressure, might that also keep the boat from starting? Or do you get oil pressure at the first few cranks?

Maybe someone should make an override switch that you have to hold in to get power to the fuel pump just until you get oil pressure.

Thanks

 

[HT32BSX115]

You can do an electric fuel pump but it would cost more than $159 when it's all said and done.

Yes, to be safe, you would need to wire-in a pressure switch that would allow the fuel pump to only run when you have oil pressure. You would wire it so that during cranking, the pump would be powered during start. The circuit would just be part of the starter solenoid circuit.

There's nothing wrong with the mechanical pump and they're quite reliable. Not being able to source a mechanical pump would be the only reason I would switch to an electric.

 

[KM7]

Ok that is good to know ( That the electric would be at least $159) how about just rebuilding the existing fuel pump with a new diaphragm. I thought that someone suggested that, but now I can't find it.

If that is an option, and it seems like a good one. Where do I find the rebuild kit?

I will start a seperate post on rebuilding a fuel pump.

 

[Lou C]

Sometimes rebuilding is tough just getting the parts or getting the old stuff to come apart. I replaced the Carter pump in my '88 4.3 last summer and was able to get a Sierra one, the original Carter pumps are still available but not as easy to find. The Sierra so far works just fine.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Have a look at the electric pump thread here in the OMC area...... AllDodge posted a diagram to easily hook up an electric.

I don't think you can easily find a "kit".. But there's vintage pump rebuilders out there that may be able to rebuild it for you.