Replacing the Tilt Trim Sender unit OMC

[KM7]

I know, Why do it? There are a few posts on here that say that. I would like to have mine operate. If I trim out the boat at speed I may want the OD it all the way down for starting out with a skier. I can listen to the straining motor but that seems like a great way to burn it out. It is also hard to hear with the motor running and passengers talking stereo playing etc.

I'm willing to try to install the new one so. Anyone want to give me a few tips? How hard is it to get the old one out?
The grommet at the transom is the problem right?

Are there tricks to prevent corrosion on the sender unit? That is assuming that I do get it installed.

This is on a 92 4Winns 200 with a 5.8 and OMC OD.

 

[kenny nunez]

The worse thing that can happen is the bolts that mount the sender could break off if they are corroded in place. Are you sure the sender is the problem and not a wire or the gauge, does the sender arm spring back when you push on it?

 

[PITBoat]

I would like to have mine operate. If I trim out the boat at speed I may want the OD it all the way down for starting out with a skier. I can listen to the straining motor but that seems like a great way to burn it out. It is also hard to hear

I agree, and I would like mine to work also. It took me a bit to even realize there was such a thing, even though the ad for my boat said "everything works as it should". Lol. Always question that phrase.

I don't like that squall either when it hits the limit, although I've driven forklifts that do it too, apparently by design. I don't understand hydraulics enough to know if that is actually harmful to something or no big deal.

I started counting the shots of up trim in my head, so I'd have a rough idea where it was and how many it would take to get it back to all the way down. That is not ideal, but better than nothing.

Mine planes pretty quickly though if I manage the flat spot in my throttle range effectively, and I don't think it matters too much if the drive is absolutely all the way down when I start off. Would still like to see the position on a gauge though.

 

[KM7]

The sender unit was completely corroded so I removed it. I was smart enough to keep the screws and even screwed them back into the holes they came out of. (Confession time how many of you have a screws, nuts and bolts that you were certain that you should save and intended to put them back in when you got back to fixing that gizmo and now you have no idea what they came out of?).

So, any advice or replacing the sender unit? How do I get the old grommet out of the transom? Very hard to get at it from behind the motor.

Please tell me I do not have to remove the motor!

 

[ab59]

Kipmc7--- I have a 1988 Starcraft with a 5.7/ Cobra . I replaced my trim sender by cheating ! I marked the position of the wires as they come out of the sending unit as well as the position of the sending unit itself and cut them in half. I removed the old trim sender and installed the new one and cut the wires , leaving plenty of working length and spliced them together and NEVER REMOVED THE GROMMET AT THE TRANSOM. I used liquid tape to make the splice waterproof and made sure to tuck any excess wire out of the way. Works fine.
To answer a question , YES you would have to remove the engine to have access for replacing the grommet . IMHO.
Others may have a different opinion but this is the way I replaced mine.

good luck ---A.B.

 

[Lou C]

My mechanic did this years ago, drilled a hole in the side of the transom mount, ran the wiring out and then up the transom just like a transducer cable. I've changed it a few times over the years and it never takes me more than 15 min or so. BTW, the Sierra aftermarket is the only one available and at least the one I put on almost 10 years ago is still working.

 

[KM7]

Lou can you please post some pictures of how the wire was routed. Won't I still have to make a waterproof seal in the transom?

 

[Lou C]

Looky here.....it just goes up the transom above the water line just the same as you would with a transducer cable. There is a rubber grommet in the hole in the transom mount to protect the wires from grounding out. Then you drill a big enough hole for the wiring to pass thru (I cut off the rubber grommet, so the hole does not have to be big), and re-terminate the wires inside and use male and female terminals to connect it to the trim wiring inside. Make sure to coat the wood hole in the transom with epoxy to seal it and then fill with 3m 4200 or LIfe caulk and cover with a clamshell cover. Done.

 

[KM7]

Nice!!! And simpler that running up through the transom behind the engine. Can you tell me the part number and where you got the clam shell? Just curious why would you have to run a transducer cable?

My boat is also a 4Winns 200 so how about a picture from inside the boat showing where the wire comes through. Mine is a 5.8 l so the engine will not be the same, but the transom should be.

Thank you

 

[Lou C]

Transducer cable...for the little black puck on the transom....For a depth finder/gps unit .....
the clamshell you can find in any marine shop they come in different sizes you just need one big enough to cover the opening for the wiring....
dont have a pic as the boat is still covered up from winter but the wiring comes in near the steering ram and the starboard side exhaust system...

 

[KM7]

OK Thanks. I'm going to fill the fuel tanks all the way, load up the boat with passengers and see exactly where the water line is. If I stay above that with the pass through, that should help. I will still use a grommet and sealer.

 

[Lou C]

What I did inside was cut off the ends of the OE wiring, and use male/female terminals to make the connection. That way, I just have to crimp on new terminals to the sending unit wiring after passing the wiring thru the transom the next time I change the sending unit. Very easy. Trying to do it the way it was originally set up, is a job calculated to make you mean!

 

[Lou C]

Garmin pix....in case you don't have a depthfinder/sounder....