Gear Oil Change.-

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Changing lower leg's gear oil most times results in a messy and oily operation, Was wondering if there's a friendly procedure starting dumping old oil and adding new one in. Where do you guys usually dump, collect old oil exiting lower leg aside from the floor..:grumpy:

Happy Boating
 

GA_Boater

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May 24, 2011
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I use an old 13X11" rusted up roasting pan kindly donated by the Admiral. It's long and wide enough to catch drips off the skeg.

I have an old 5 qt. oil jug that I pour the used oil into and take it to an auto parts store to dump in the used oil tank.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
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Thanks, aside asking by what method is the old oil collected, forgot to ask which method, system is used to add new oil in, will be interesting to see how each one here undergoes with that oily procedure...

Happy Boating
 

joeanna

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2016
Messages
108
I use an old tupperware container to catch the old oil, and use a "shampoo type" pump to fill it back up, I did use an old oil container with a hose to the LU , cut the bottom of the old "can" off and let gravity work, that did take a while.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
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Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,310
I use a washing up basin to collect it. Good to have the drive at just the right angle over the wide basin so that even when the oil is at the dribbling and dripping stage it’s still covered below for collection.
It’s still a messy bloody affair though. Especially changing over bottles and getting the tube out the bottom and putting screw back in before it bloody empties.
 

harringtondav

Commander
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May 26, 2018
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2,438
My collection is the same as many above. My boat sets low in the trailer so I have to drop the tongue jack to the bottom to trim mostly down to get most of the lube to drain. I drain the outdrive after I've run the engine on muffs 'till full warm up and winter fogging. Extra messy because the Alpha water pump keeps bleeding into the oil pan. Then into a spare gallon motor oil jug and off to our local recycling station.

I use a Lubriquip or other bottle pump with a drain port adapter to refill. Also messy when I remove the threaded adapter as quickly as I can (never quick enough with lubed up fingers) and insert the drain plug. I reinsert the vent plug and tighten the oil res. cap before detaching the pump to minimize ooze back. Still, lots of paper towels.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Oh - You want to know the secret part of lube change? :D

Here it is;

-1) Open a fresh beer
1) Tear off about a dozen paper towels. I prefer Pic -A-Size Bounty.
2) Using trailer jack and trim, adjust until the lower unit drain is the lowest part of the lower.
3) Position the drain pan.
4) Remove the drain screw and quickly reposition the pan if needed. It almost always is needed
5) Remove the vent screw and quickly reposition the pan if needed. It almost always is needed.
6) Wipe any mess and clean the vent and drain holes while checking for old stuck gaskets in the holes. Wipe the beer can.
7) Put new gaskets on both screws.
8) Screw the lube pump adapter in the drain, now the fill hole.
9) Adjust trailer jack and trim until the lower unit is horizontal.
10) Pump in the new lube until it starts to ooze out of the vent. Wait a few ticks and pump in a little more insurance lube.
11) Wipe around the vent hole and install the vent screw.

The secret part starts now;

12) Tear off more paper towels. I always underestimate the 1st time.
13) Put the drain/fill screw on the AV plate so it's close.
14) With my left thumb next to the lube pump adapter, remove the adapter and slide my thumb over the hole.
15) Pick up the drain/fill screw off the AV plate with my right hand.
16) Take a deep breath, count 1-2-3 and quickly slide my thumb off the hole and the drain/fill into the hole and thread it by hand.
17) Snug up the drain/fill screw and recheck the snugness of the vent screw.
18) Wipe everything up, including the can of beer.
19) Using a funnel, pour the drain pan lube into my 5 qt. jug.
20) Wipe everything up, including the beer can, drain pan and ground if I happened to kick the jug over before I get the lid on. :eek:
21) Check for leaking drain/fill/vent screws.
22) Open another beer. By this time you need to relax after completing another successful lube change.
23) Fill up a garbage bag with beer cans, dripping paper towels, paper towel rolls and empty lube bottles.

Heck yeah I still make a mess. But beer helps, just wait a while until the BA drops to legal limits before towing the boat or getting on the water. Better yet, go boating tomorrow and you can check for new lube drips in the morning.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
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Interesting the way each one does their filthy gear oil change along cleaning the oil mess afterwords. Will let the post to continue for some time if anyone still wants to share their experience. After changing gear oil for years came with a cleaner solution, was siting up front of my eyes all the time. Works with patience and many cold ones which are key..LOL!!

Happy Boating
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
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Gear Oil Change :

Will need to count with an Oil Pump of your preferred brand, must not have a metal clamp permanently pressing the hose against the nozzle.

Procedure :

-Disconnect hose and plug adapter from pump’s nozzle.

-Remove lower drain plug.

-Screw adapter to lower plug and attach a bottle to rear hose deep enough as in pic.

Gear Oil Change-1.JPG

-Remove upper plug.

-Let bleed slowly the whole contents of the gear box into the bottle.
(Proper time to entertain yourself zipping many cold ones while waiting)

-Once finished remove bottle from hose, place cap and discard bottle properly.

Gear Oil Change-2.JPG

-Without removing the adapter, insert the hose extreme into the pump’s nozzle.

-Pump new gear oil till exists through upper plug.

-Screw upper plug tight.

-Remove hose adapter, screw lower plug tight.

And that’s all folks. No more pans to clean, lots of towels to discard, floors messed with oil spills to clean and best of all a Happy Admiral…

If want to leave the bottle with oil leftovers along attached pump, insert a thin wooden sushi stick cut to size inside adapter, will prevent unwanted oil spillage if plunger is pressed by mere accident.

Gear Oil Change-3.JPG

Happy Boating
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
Messages
12,965
It;s always a good idea to replace the washers/o-rings on the Drain and Vent screws anytime they are loosened/removed
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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12,345
Yep, that note was going to be posted at the end of the post but assumed everybody had read their respective Owners Manual. So far haven't had any issues with Tohatsu plug gaskets as can be used and reused several times in a row, just don't over tight them once fully seated.

Happy Boating
 

BillP

Captain
Joined
Aug 10, 2002
Messages
3,290
That pump in bottle is a cool deal. I'll try that next time around...I normally drain into a plastic drain pan used for cars. it holds 10 qts and seals tight until disposal at wallyworld. I use the pump to fill after draining. Nothing earth shattering but I have 7 ob engines so this happens at least 7 times a yr.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
That pump in bottle is a cool deal. I'll try that next time around...I normally drain into a plastic drain pan used for cars. it holds 10 qts and seals tight until disposal at wallyworld. I use the pump to fill after draining. Nothing earth shattering but I have 7 ob engines so this happens at least 7 times a yr.

Yep, try it, it's a perfect simple clean procedure. If the gear oil contents of the gear box if way more that 500 ML, get a larger bottle. Don't know if allowed to dispose the filled bottle along with the house garbage, if not, take it to Wally...

Happy Boating
 

RaisedByWolves

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
90
Other than being time consuming, why not drain and replace lower plug, then fill from the top (vent) hole?
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Other than being time consuming, why not drain and replace lower plug, then fill from the top (vent) hole?

With an I/O, that usually results in drive "replacement" due to the bubbles trapped in the drive that float to the top uncovering the upper gears and bearings.

And then there's that manufacturer recommendation that usually indicates to "Fill from the drain port"

EXCEPT WITH AN OMG COBRA I/O (Dog-Clutch type) then you fill from the "FILL-PORT" but I digress!!

For Evinrudes though here's a video from BRP
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVlBtOzLYRE

For Mercury:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBbQVH5j0W0

For Mercruiser Bravo
https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/landing/oils-and-lubricants/

These are all Youtube videos. But note they're produced by BRP, Mercury and Mercruiser instead of backyard "Wrenches"!

And again.....

DON'T EVER FILL A Dog-Clutch COBRA FROM THE DRAIN!


Oh...... AND Of course,
Back to the OP's original question! After opening up the oil reservoir and removing the upper "plug", I connect the screw-in fill-fitting, and use my Moeller oil suction tank to suction out the oil from the drain port. It suctions out the old oil VERY quickly.

Then I let the residual oil drip for an hour or so into a small container with the drive all the way down.

All the used oil gets dumped into my 200 gallon Lanair HI-140 furnace tank to be burned next Winter!

Cheers,

Rick
 
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