- Joined
- Jul 23, 2011
- Messages
- 49,540
Mods, feel free to move this into the VP section if you want, however its not repair, or a problem...... its a goal for more smiles
So, been wanting to build a 383 stroker SBC for the boat for a long time (since I bought the boat)
This will be added to the links here http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...uisers-yachts/512516-1988-rogue-2420?t=500145
some of you may remember when I dug into the motor http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...o-performance-upgrades-for-an-aq271c?t=503800.
upper end of motor is ready
the added performance at the expense of fuel was a good trade off. however putting in 91+ octane to keep detonation at bay is wearing on me. so time to build the proper lower end.
the rattle can engine paint is turning out to not be the best solution to seal the motor, Boeshield has worked where it was applied, however the last time out, noted the stamped steel valve covers are rusting, some of the steel brackets are showing signs of rust, and the manifolds are at end of their life
salt air, humidity, etc can be a biotch on painted steel parts.
used the rusty metal, rust streaks and an oil leak on the outdrive to convince the admiral we need to spend a bit of $ this spring to make the boat ship-shape so to speak. She asked how much, I said about $1500-$2k :jaw: so after she picked her jaw off the floor, she said, try not to go nuts.
When I put the heat exchanger on the motor, it was originally a BBC heat exchanger (modified Mercruiser unit) about 2x the cooling I need for a half system, however was sized for a full system. going to go with aluminum EMI thunder manifolds running them on the HX. I will be making a stainless risers and exhaust diversion system at work.
This leaves a bit of $ left for the motor
Current 1988 block is still flat tappet cam. so I am going to source a roller block from either the machine shop or a u-pull it. Will try to find one for dirt cheap
Will be getting a 383 stroke crank kit, and a set of proper vortec pistons, etc.
Havent found a machine shop locally that I like, so I may have to lean on Scotty, Jake and the boys at Manitowoc Motor and Machine http://www.motormachining.com/ or Larry and the boys at Baril engine http://www.barilengine.com/ and having the motor come down with dad
will be leaning on Bondo , Tail_Gunner and a few others on the proper mix of parts.
goal is to get a good solid 383 stroker for about $1500
For those tagging along, here are a few other 383 build threads
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...8632342-383-stroker-swap-into-a-201-liberator
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/9980707-volvo-penta-5-7l-gsi-to-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...r-to-a-vortec-5-7l-and-possibly-a-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...-o-and-inboards/529101-building-a-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...383-stroker-winter-project?t=524489&p=5507909
So, been wanting to build a 383 stroker SBC for the boat for a long time (since I bought the boat)
This will be added to the links here http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...uisers-yachts/512516-1988-rogue-2420?t=500145
some of you may remember when I dug into the motor http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...o-performance-upgrades-for-an-aq271c?t=503800.
upper end of motor is ready
the added performance at the expense of fuel was a good trade off. however putting in 91+ octane to keep detonation at bay is wearing on me. so time to build the proper lower end.
the rattle can engine paint is turning out to not be the best solution to seal the motor, Boeshield has worked where it was applied, however the last time out, noted the stamped steel valve covers are rusting, some of the steel brackets are showing signs of rust, and the manifolds are at end of their life
salt air, humidity, etc can be a biotch on painted steel parts.
used the rusty metal, rust streaks and an oil leak on the outdrive to convince the admiral we need to spend a bit of $ this spring to make the boat ship-shape so to speak. She asked how much, I said about $1500-$2k :jaw: so after she picked her jaw off the floor, she said, try not to go nuts.
When I put the heat exchanger on the motor, it was originally a BBC heat exchanger (modified Mercruiser unit) about 2x the cooling I need for a half system, however was sized for a full system. going to go with aluminum EMI thunder manifolds running them on the HX. I will be making a stainless risers and exhaust diversion system at work.
This leaves a bit of $ left for the motor
Current 1988 block is still flat tappet cam. so I am going to source a roller block from either the machine shop or a u-pull it. Will try to find one for dirt cheap
Will be getting a 383 stroke crank kit, and a set of proper vortec pistons, etc.
Havent found a machine shop locally that I like, so I may have to lean on Scotty, Jake and the boys at Manitowoc Motor and Machine http://www.motormachining.com/ or Larry and the boys at Baril engine http://www.barilengine.com/ and having the motor come down with dad
will be leaning on Bondo , Tail_Gunner and a few others on the proper mix of parts.
goal is to get a good solid 383 stroker for about $1500
For those tagging along, here are a few other 383 build threads
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...8632342-383-stroker-swap-into-a-201-liberator
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/9980707-volvo-penta-5-7l-gsi-to-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...r-to-a-vortec-5-7l-and-possibly-a-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...-o-and-inboards/529101-building-a-383-stroker
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...383-stroker-winter-project?t=524489&p=5507909