75HP Mariner/Mercury outboard 2 Stroke acting wierd out of blue

PISTONESAL

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Went out last week and everything seemed fine. On way home toppe of tank and went out again next day. Dropped boat everything was fine went full throttle to fishing spot but engine just died. Would not start so trolled back to ramp. At ramp tried it a few times and got it to start but would cut off. Got to stay on and idled close bty to ramp and would die and idle sounded very rough bouncing a lot. Can anybody give any suggestions where to start? Did filling up gas tank day before caused maybe fule from bottom to come up and get in engine? Please help. I appreciate it.
 

jimmbo

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Is the engine one where you have mix the gas, or does it have an oil mixing system? 3, 4, or 6 cylinder? Adding gas without adding oil on an engine that uses premix, can lead to poor running. A year would be helpful.
Does it have spark to all cylinders? If fuel getting to and thru the carbs? Have you done a compression test?
 

PISTONESAL

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It's a3cyl I do not premix it's has separate oil injection have not done a comp check yet
 

racerone

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You might want to mix gas at 50:1 and then perform a test on the oil injection system.----Measure oil pump output over a specified time.----All in a factory manual.---Tested for spark on all 3 leads ?--Have you maintained water pump and cooling system ?----A compression test is also a good trouble shooting step.
 

PISTONESAL

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Ok. I will take those steps. Anything else? Do you think filling up gas tank day before caused maybe fuel from bottom of tank to come up and get in engine? I was also thinking of dropping a can of sea foam in there? What do you think? Thanks for the responses and help. I appreciate it.
 

racerone

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Some simple trouble shooting steps will get you the answers to what might be wrong.----If you have an on board tank you can run with a portable tank as a test.
 

211libwtfo

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Check the anti siphon valve. Or at least isolate your fuel and line system by using separate fuel delivery that’s one way to narrow your search.
 

PISTONESAL

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ok. I tested it today with a seperate tank and still hard to start and when it start it cutsoff. How do you know if the fuel filter is bad? Its a really tight spot and hard to get the hoses off of it unless you have a trick?
 

racerone

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Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over , yes or no ?
 

PISTONESAL

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Tried pushing in and not pushing in. What do you mean check the sifon valve?
 

racerone

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Key is to be pushed in while cranking it over.----Also make sure that the enricher valve actually opens when key is pushed in.
 

Old Ironmaker

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I have a 115 HP Mariner 2 stroke. I had the same symptoms a few years back. The choke wasn't engaging on start up. But once it did start it was fine, only on cold start did it give me problems. You can check a few dozen or more musts from spark to fuel and everything in between and not trouble shoot a problem, evaluation through elimination. Sometimes based on ones mechanical and electrical expertise it is, at times, prudent to take the boat into a certified Marine mechanic. Sometimes you have to "Call the guy." I thought I knew what I was doing until I took the Small Engine Repair course at a local Community College. Turned out I didn't know as much as I thought I did.

I know a guy that basically tore his engine apart to solve a rough start problem on his 1st cold run in spring a few years back. After monkeying around until the battery died he finally got the engine started with a booster pack but the 115 Mariner!!!!! would not get above 2500 RPM on the water. The new fuel line he installed had the arrow on the bulb in the wrong direction. Guess who?

You really wont know if a fuel filter is plugged until you change it and cut it open. They can be a pain to get at on some engines, I swear some design engineers are sadists. My Mariner is easy to get at, I change mine every year. I don't think it is 20 bucks. I have a list of items engine related I change annually and some more than once a year based on how many hours I run the boat. We don't have CAA or any towing service up here in Ontario where I am to come out and tow you in. You need to rely on other boaters if there are any, call a friend or the Coast Guard.

The anti syphon valve is a basic check valve at the tank that doesn't allow fuel to drain back into the fuel tank. You can search this site for more details on it.

A question, how much fuel did you have in the tank when you filled it? If it was near MT, yes you could have gotten some gum into the carbs from the bottom of the tank and I think that is your suspicion. It may still run rough even on a separate tank because your carb is now gummed up too. It isn't often that a engine runs great today and not tomorrow. Run a can of carb cleaner into the outboard through the temporary tank. It can't hurt. I would start there. If it runs better you will need to clean the carbs and change the fuel filter. Eliminate your first suspicion first. If not that make a comprehensive list to trouble shoot or as I suggested earlier perhaps "Call the guy."
 
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Grub54891

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I see no one has asked of you checked for water in the fuel. Check for that before anything else. Once a carb gets water in it, you can drain/ flush it out with a known good fuel supply, from a remote tank. Most carbs have a drain on the fuel bowl. A d lean out the main fuel tank.
 

PISTONESAL

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I check for water . Changed the fuel filter. Now I did a compression check and very disappointed. 1 and 2 at 120psi 3 is at 60 psi. Now what? major issue right? Would that cause it to be hard to start and stay running or do i have more than 1 issue? Like I stated vrything fine one day and the next day it died at WOT. Only thing was filling tank the 1st after my outing. Did I blow up my engine:( ? I am very handy and have done all kinds of repair. Can I repair this. where do I start? please help.I want to go out fishing again soon without spending thousands of dollars..
 

Old Ironmaker

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Now what? Major issue right? Unfortunately yes this is a very major issue. The cause of hard starting and not running is because you are running on 2 cylinders not 3. Most definitely you can have more issues than just a blown cylinder, it is possible, anything is on an older O/B. Such as the reason the cylinder went in the first place. Usually an oil delivery issue.

If you have the machinery, tools and knowledge to rebuild a combustion engine yes, sure you can do it. For an O/B that old I would be looking for a newer good crate engine with a warranty. Sorry I don't have any better news or advice for you, it could have been worse if that's any consolation. Decision time.
 

PISTONESAL

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Yeah, thats exactly the answer I was hoping not to hear:(. The engine is a 2000 thats old? I had a 1978 Johnson on my prvious boat and I had it purring. Shouldn't it still start and idle even if it is on 2 cylinders? Mine will start but hard to and will stay running but for a short amount of time.. What would the cost of repair be vs getting another engine? Another engine is going to be a lot of $$$$. There isnt an easy fix?
 

racerone

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There is no easy fix.----Motor needs tear down and inspection.----Usually cheaper than another used motor.----Note , you need to determine what caused the problem here or you may make the same mistake on your next motor !!
 

PISTONESAL

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I looked inside the plug with a scope. It looks like there are a couple of scrapes inside the cylinder wall so probably a piston ring? What would be a rough estimate to repair something like that?
 

racerone

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Would you try this yourself ??-----Or what do the local shops charge per hour.----Question can not be answered until you take this apart !
 

PISTONESAL

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Was asking to see if anybody has had it done or knew a rough estimate. Seems like the wall will have to be honed out but does that mean the other 2 would have to be done also?
 
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