Mercruiser 5.7 Momentary Engine Cutout

iaff284

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
30
I have a 1995 Crownline 225BR with a carbureted 350 Mag engine, Thunderbolt V ignition with knock sensor, and an Alpha 1 Gen II drive. I have an occasional situation where the engine will act like the key has been shut off for a split second and then immediately return to running fine. This occurs when cruising at speed. I rebuilt the engine, carburetor, replaced the fuel pump, and replaced the plugs, rotor, cap, and wires two years ago and it ran fine for the first year. Then this momentary cutout started last summer and would happen once or twice during an outing. This summer the cutout has become more frequent along with a hard start condition when both hot and cold. Yesterday I did some electrical testing just to check and make sure there wasn't a voltage problem contributing to the cutout. I have two GP 27 batteries with a dual battery switch. Last summer I replaced all of the battery cables with 3/0 welding cable as I got that free from a friend. I started by checking battery voltage and it was 12.65V. While cranking the voltage dropped to 10.2V. This was confirmed at the key switch and at the coil. I thought maybe the starter was bad as it sounds slow to crank. I checked the amp draw and it was 172A while cranking. As soon as the the alternator starts charging there is 14.2 volts at the ignition switch and the coil. With the batteries still sitting at 13+V shortly after shutdown the engine will fire immediately. If I turn the blower and radio on and let them run for 10 min. the battery voltage would drop to 12.3 and the voltage while cranking drops to 9.8-10 volts as measured at the batteries and the engine struggles to start and then idles really low until I bump the throttle and the alternator kicks in then everythings runs fine. I thought that maybe the coil was bad so I checked it and found resistance on the primary to be 1.2ohms, secondary at 10.3K ohms, and a little oil on the outside of the coil. I am assuming that the coil is bad and contributing to the hard start with low voltage. Any other ideas as to what is causing the momentary cutout. Usually coils will cause a loss of power in the upper rpm range as they breakdown but I have never heard of one causing the momentary cutout. Any help is appreciated.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
I have a 1995 Crownline 225BR with a carbureted 350 Mag engine, Thunderbolt V ignition with knock sensor, and an Alpha 1 Gen II drive. I have an occasional situation where the engine will act like the key has been shut off for a split second and then immediately return to running fine. This occurs when cruising at speed. I rebuilt the engine, carburetor, replaced the fuel pump, and replaced the plugs, rotor, cap, and wires two years ago and it ran fine for the first year. Then this momentary cutout started last summer and would happen once or twice during an outing. This summer the cutout has become more frequent along with a hard start condition when both hot and cold. Yesterday I did some electrical testing just to check and make sure there wasn't a voltage problem contributing to the cutout. I have two GP 27 batteries with a dual battery switch. Last summer I replaced all of the battery cables with 3/0 welding cable as I got that free from a friend. I started by checking battery voltage and it was 12.65V. While cranking the voltage dropped to 10.2V. This was confirmed at the key switch and at the coil. I thought maybe the starter was bad as it sounds slow to crank. I checked the amp draw and it was 172A while cranking. As soon as the the alternator starts charging there is 14.2 volts at the ignition switch and the coil. With the batteries still sitting at 13+V shortly after shutdown the engine will fire immediately. If I turn the blower and radio on and let them run for 10 min. the battery voltage would drop to 12.3 and the voltage while cranking drops to 9.8-10 volts as measured at the batteries and the engine struggles to start and then idles really low until I bump the throttle and the alternator kicks in then everythings runs fine. I thought that maybe the coil was bad so I checked it and found resistance on the primary to be 1.2ohms, secondary at 10.3K ohms, and a little oil on the outside of the coil. I am assuming that the coil is bad and contributing to the hard start with low voltage. Any other ideas as to what is causing the momentary cutout. Usually coils will cause a loss of power in the upper rpm range as they breakdown but I have never heard of one causing the momentary cutout. Any help is appreciated.

Will the 12.3V not on charge is good, the 9.8 is getting on the low side. I don't think your cut out and not starting is battery related. more like a bad connection somewhere. Now the starting might be the battery, but still more like a connection. The TB-V when everything is working fires up easy.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,958
Will the 12.3V not on charge is good, the 9.8 is getting on the low side. I don't think your cut out and not starting is battery related. more like a bad connection somewhere. Now the starting might be the battery, but still more like a connection. The TB-V when everything is working fires up easy.

Ayuh,..... I'm seein' bad Grounds,.....
 

nateo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Messages
352
two easy things to check.
Make sure all wires on ignition key are tight. sometimes they come loose due to vibrations, this is common issue on boats, happened to me last summer.
I once had the exact same issue with a car and asked a gear head buddy of mine. He immediately said spark plug wires. I went out and looked at them and sure enough I found one that was visibly burned. after slapping in new wires it immediately went away.
 

iaff284

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
30
Sorry for the delayed response.....I replaced the coil which had high resistance on the primary and oil leaking out of it with an MSD epoxy filled coil and the problem went away.
 
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