383 stroker is it worth it?

flipbro

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As boating season is coming to an end im debating on wether or not to pull my engine (5.7) and build a stroker. My engine runs great and strong so would it really be worth it in a boat and would my R drive hold up to the extra hp? The drive was completely rebuilt at the start of the season with oem parts.
 

achris

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How many HP will the 383 produce? If it much more than about 300, then the drive will let go... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. (Words some of these software companies could do more to adhere to!!!)

Chris......
 

flipbro

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Boy it sure doesn't sound like a good idea if the drive wont take it. I was hopping to build it up around 350 to 375 hp.. I agree if it ain't broke just thought it would be fun..mabe I need to find an old glastron jet drive
 

FreeBeeTony

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If your 5.7 is pre-Vortec I would recommend going to Vortec heads as an option.......then again, if it's running fine, leave well enough alone.
 

flipbro

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What kind of hp gain would I see with the vortec heads. Mabe I could satisfy my erge by just building the motor up to the 300 hp mark
 

achris

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Roughly 20 or so... but you'll also need a new intake for those heads.
 
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Scott Danforth

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add in a decent cam to the vortec heads and you hit the 300-330 mark easy with your 350. a 383 can get you 350-400hp

not sure on the R drive, however plenty of A1G2's with 383's in front of them. you have to watch the holeshot and run premium synthetic gear lube, however it can be done.

is a stroker worth while - depends on what you want to do. However as indicated your existing drive may become the limiting factor.
 

Greg68S

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Idk Scott. I have watch plenty of guys build their power plants but forget about the drive. Merc paired BB's with R,MR, and Alpha drives for only a short time. The drives could not handle the 30hp increase. The Bravo was introduced strictly for that reason. I agree with the earlier statement. "If ain't broke don't fix it". But again if your like me you have to tinker with something.
 

alldodge

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Have a buddy here which has a 383 stroker in his 19 foot checkmate. Has an alpha drive with a 6 or 8 inch extension (I forget which). Been running it for years without issue. The only thing to note is his checkmate is a very light boat, It only uses a single axle trailer so it weights maybe 2500lb. If your boat is much heavier then I agree with the others
 

Walt T

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I have a 22 foot Hydroswift cuddy, fairly heavy boat and I am at altitude in Denver area. 290 DP 1.95 ratio. The original 5.7 with aluminum B5 props which are 21 pitch it would top out around 4600 rpm and 43 mph loaded with people and gear. Built a non vortech 383 with camel hump heads, pretty close matching roller cam, original Holley 625 vacuum secondary carb, 9.5 pistons. It now will easily blow past 5000 rpms. I backed off at 5300 and 48 mph GPS. I put on the Stainless F6 props which i understand are 23 pitch. It went past 5000 and I again backed off at 5300. 53 mph GPS. The last time that boat saw 50 was when I first bought it and I took it out by myself, 1/4 tank and nothing in the boat. Lake Powell at 3700 feet the stainless props were obviously too low in pitch and made great ski props. I need a set of F7s but I don't think they'll be enough to limit the rpms. At least not at lower altitudes.
This coming winter the engine is coming out and vortec heads and intake along with proper cam will all go on. Compression should go to 10.5. I will have to manually limit top rpms. Duo props aren't cheap. Top speed is fun but feeling that acceleration no matter where I punch the throttle always brings a smile.
Total cost for me was around 4K which includes new stock Volvo exhaust manifolds and risers. Stock Volvos too. I may or may not buy a set of performance exhaust manifolds but I refuse to install through hull exhaust so I am limiting total performance. I had to pay a shop to remove and install the engine total cost was 350.00. I had everything disconnected, drive off,motor ready to be yanked.
Why do I do this? Because I can.
 

Greg68S

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Hahaha that's right Walt!!!! Although if will be the first to admit, that phrase has brought me some expensive trouble. I'm glad I was smart enough to keep my recent build simple. Scott almost had me convinced to stroke my 5.7 Volvo. I came really close.
 

achris

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I have a 22 foot Hydroswift cuddy, fairly heavy boat and I am at altitude in Denver area. 290 DP 1.95 ratio. The original 5.7 with aluminum B5 props which are 21 pitch it would top out around 4600 rpm and 43 mph loaded with people and gear. Built a non vortech 383 with camel hump heads, pretty close matching roller cam, original Holley 625 vacuum secondary carb, 9.5 pistons. It now will easily blow past 5000 rpms. I backed off at 5300 and 48 mph GPS. I put on the Stainless F6 props which i understand are 23 pitch. It went past 5000 and I again backed off at 5300. 53 mph GPS. The last time that boat saw 50 was when I first bought it and I took it out by myself, 1/4 tank and nothing in the boat. Lake Powell at 3700 feet the stainless props were obviously too low in pitch and made great ski props. I need a set of F7s but I don't think they'll be enough to limit the rpms. At least not at lower altitudes.
This coming winter the engine is coming out and vortec heads and intake along with proper cam will all go on. Compression should go to 10.5. I will have to manually limit top rpms. Duo props aren't cheap. Top speed is fun but feeling that acceleration no matter where I punch the throttle always brings a smile.
Total cost for me was around 4K which includes new stock Volvo exhaust manifolds and risers. Stock Volvos too. I may or may not buy a set of performance exhaust manifolds but I refuse to install through hull exhaust so I am limiting total performance. I had to pay a shop to remove and install the engine total cost was 350.00. I had everything disconnected, drive off,motor ready to be yanked.
Why do I do this? Because I can.

That's with a DP volvo drive. The OP has a Mercruiser Alpha style. You're not comparing apples to apples. The DP is more akin to the Merc Bravo III drive, and that would also stand up to the mods you've made.

Chris......
 

Greg68S

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That's true. OP could also change drives to accommodate the power mods. You would need a mid to late 80's volvo DP290 and transom shield. The total upgrade would run you about $3000. But even then you could pair it to your current set up and be more than happy with extra torque that would be supplied. Also the OP could sell his merc drive complete for about $1500 if it's in primo shape.
 

Greg68S

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The Volvo DP's are still IMO far superior to the Bravo3 and they are the pioneers of the technology. Don't get me wrong I do like both companies. I wouldn't put a 650hp power plant to anything but a merc Bravo 2 XR drives. But for the everyday family boating application I would go with volvo DP's.
 

Scott Danforth

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Guys, like Chris said, our VP 290 DP drives are nearly bullet proof. we can put a bit of power thru them.

not sure on the R, however I know of a 29' Scarab running twin 383's with the stock Alpha drives with stand-offs, drive showers and running amsoil. the boat has taken a beating for about 6 years. I know of a few pachangas that have had the 260hp 5.7's swapped to 383's (I really want one)

Not advocating putting 400hp into an alpha, however many people do.
 

Greg68S

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Yes many people to you are right. But when all hell brakes loose it becomes quite pricey. IMO anyone knows someone running anything bigger than 5.7's to R,MR, or Alpha drives is tempting fate. Those who have done it and are successful will fall short eventually as their luck runs out. It's inevitable.
 

Greg68S

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Add all the power you want. But pair it with the right drive combination. Do it right the first time and you will only do it once.
 

Scott Danforth

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Add all the power you want. But pair it with the right drive combination. Do it right the first time and you will only do it once.

then your not trying hard enough.....LOL
 
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