1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Hi all. My brain is fried and i'm in need of your help! I've been reading posts and replies to posts and on and on. I think I've confused myself more than I helped. I'm not a dumb guy, but I feel totally brain dead about this issue right now.

I have a 1974 Mark Twain powered by a Mercruiser 3.0L 140 and pre-alpha outdrive. Just bought this boat a few weeks ago. When I got it the start was a little slow when cold, but not too bad. Once it got going it idled great and seemed to be very throttle responsive. Now, of course this was all on the muffs and not in the water under load(my first mistake).

Got it home, cleaned it up, and noticed a slight milky appearance to the oil, but not horrible. Figured it was primarily from a little condensation and lack of use since the early spring summerization. The po had installed a new plastic 20gal fuel tank and in-line fuel filter, along with new wires and distibutor cap. Did not seem to have any issues, so we took it out to test it under load at the lake.

I warmed it up for just a few minutes prior to heading out that morning so it would be ready to roll at the launch. We backed it down and I lowered the trim and started it it with just a couple cranks. I proceeded to back up and swing around to tie up at the dock to wait for my FIL and as I took it our of reverse and into neutral it sputtered and died. That was the first time I had seen it act that way. When I cranked it to re-start it, it almost caught the first time, but didn't; then didn't even come close to starting after that. I managed to pull myself over to the dock and tie up. Tried several more times over the next 10 minutes to start, but nothing. Kept acting like it flooded, so we let it sit and went to eat lunch.

When we came back it seemed more responsive and finally started after 5-6 attempts. We sat there for several minutes and all seemed fine again. Cool. We tooled around the lake for a while, testing throttle response, handling, etc.; never going more than 2/3 throttle. No worries. I was happy. We anchored for about an hour in a cove to swim and chill. Finally cranked right back up and headed back in. I ran 3/4 throttle for a few minutes, then finally went to wot. Was humming along fantastic. There was a large boat that flew by us in the opposite direction with a huge wake that kind of spooked me and I throttled down to near idle immediately. When I did that, it sputtered a few times, tried to catch again, then died. We never could get it started again. Had to row a while until we got towed by some very nice folks. All the time we were trying to re-start it, it seemed to act flooded to the point it didn't even sound like it was sparking. I really though I overheated the coil.

Got it home and proceeded with inspections and troubleshooting a few days later. Here's where I'm at so far:

Checked gas tank for particles/debrit - none visible - all new gas in tank.
Replaced in-line fuel filter - old one looked like it was collapsing on itself inside the glass.
Flushed oil with new 25w-50 - oil looked better after it had ran, but still slightly creamy and had a definite gas odor
Inspected and cleaned the filter at the inlet to card brom fuel pump - wasn't bad though
Replaced plugs with Bosch SuperPlus 7999 - old ones were wet and smelled like gas
Checked spark from the coil - was strong blue arc

After I had done this we hooked it back up to the muffs to give it a go again. First turn of the key and it fired right up ... for about 15 secs ... then died. Would not start again. Seemed to be flooded yet again. Checking the carb, we thought that the gas seemed to continue to flow into the carb for a few seconds after the cranking had stopped. The flap also seems super tight and for some reason now does not want to open nearly at all unless we hold it open. We broke for lunch and more reading.

After lunch we tinkered with the carb a bit and reset the idle screws. If I hold the throttle wide open all the way, it starts immediately with no hesitation. I can back off the throttle to about half, but any further down from there it sputters and dies again. And at half we need to hold open the flap to keep it running smooth. If we let it go, it wants to close all the way and kills the engine.

I'm at a loss. I can't find a break down or diagram of this particular carb. I see rebuild kits, but nothing with real good images of how this thing should really look. Seems to me that a spring is missing or something is just not set up right in it. The carb appears to be an older rochester 2bbl as it has 2 idle set screws underneath. The carb number is: 7043184

It's getting gas, so I don't think it's a pump problem(unless the pump pressure is too high?). Can't understand the choke on this one. Should the flap be that tight and want to stay sprung closed? Also feels like gas isn't getting down into the cylinder at start unless throttle is help all the way open.

Doe anyone have a manual or diagram for this carb? How about pics all around of one that's running great? Can you think of something stupid I'm not looking at or maybe some adjustments I could make prior to getting a rebuild kit in and tearing this thing down? Could the timing be off that much to make it act this way? Short of taking another few days away and coming back fresh to start over from the begining, I don't know what to do. It seems soooo close to running great.

dd193688.jpg

639f4118.jpg

18219d99.jpg
 

ziggy

Admiral
Joined
Jun 30, 2004
Messages
7,473
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb?

Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb?

wow, pretty long read...

when going from rev. to neu. and it dies may indicate shift cable failure.

loose the inline fuel filter. there's one in the fuel pump and one at the carb. inlet. if ya want a fuel/water separator to protect against water intrusion that's good. they are desirable, just not an inline fuel filter only. they are usually not uscg approved.

fuel in the oil may indicate a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm. be careful with this. i suspect your rig came with an auto type fuel pump. these are a fire hazard. new style fuel pumps have a 3rd fuel line that goes directly to the carb. when the diaphragm ruptures, the fuel goes up this 3rd line and dumps into the carb. so as not to dump it in the bilge where the vapors will be very combustible. one spark and it goes boom.

the choke plate should go almost closed with one full pump of the throttle when the engine is cold. as it warms, the choke plate slowly pulls off to full open. it remains this way during operation.

imho. read this. i know it's about winterization/summeriztion but the preventive maint. is a must do. it's a good place to start when ya get your used boat.

as for your carb. diagrams, ya need to get mercruiser service manual #2. C-90-71707. i got mine off ebay. your mercruiser dealer can aquire it for you too. about a c note. or try this...

there's probably more to do, but this will get ya a start.
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

LOL! OMG, that was way too long winded!! Never post when tired and after a few sapphire and tonics!!

Thanks for the reply ziggy. I left out several little steps we ran through, but I'll not get all into those.

Basically I'm just confused as to why the carb is sticking closed unless I hold the throttle wide open. No sure how I should be adjusting the choke to rich or lean. Moving that lessens the tension on the choke plate, but still not opening as it should. Like there should be some reverse tension on it to help keep it open?

Guess I'll have to bite the bullet on the manual. Dang that's pricey. In the mean time, can anybody email or pm a PDF or picture of the carb diagram? Or just post a few pics of your carb with the arrester off from the front and back? I wpuld greatly appreciate it. Really wanted to get an under load test run this weekend while my FIL has time to go out with me.

Thanks again.
 

ziggy

Admiral
Joined
Jun 30, 2004
Messages
7,473
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Moving that lessens the tension on the choke plate, but still not opening as it should.
no idea if this is your problem. but, i did have a similar problem at one time.

IMG_5625.jpg

this is how the choke cam is supposed to contact the idle speed screw.

IMG_5626.jpg

this is what happened to my carb. the cam would flip over to the wrong side. i assume the carb. is worn out. when this occured the choke plate wouldn't pull open.

try taking the black cap off the choke assy. then ya can move the choke plate by hand. see if it moves freely?

In the mean time, can anybody email or pm a PDF or picture of the carb diagram?
click on the word 'this'...

edit.
do ya have the stove pipe going from the manifold up to the choke assy. intack? the tube routes heat to the by metal coil spring in the choke. it warms the spring and it unwinds (maybe winds) and moves the choke plate. this is the spring pressure to pull open..
 

tschmidty

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
462
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

FYI, it is a rochester carb and is pretty easy to rebuild with some basic skills. Just be careful, etc. +1 on checking the lower shift cable/interrupt, but it doesn't sound like that would be the problem with the running or starting. It could be the coil or the resistance wire over heating, but I think you are probably closer with the flooding part, which means a rebuild or buying a rebuilt carbeurator.
 

Fordiesel69

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
1,146
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

First off, if you over dilute your oil with fuel, it will cause the engine to run rich BEFORE you damage the engine. Monitor your oil level and viscosity!!

The milky oil should be addressed first to see if the engine is worth spending another dime on.

The carb is from 1974, it is a rochester and most definatly needs completely torn down and rebuilt. Its a good solid carb, but age plays its toll on the internals.

Your boat WILL break down from time to time unless you go thru every system. Its worthwile for towing insurance.

I don'e beleive your shift cable is at fault from what you describe. Did it shift smooth when it was running?
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Thanks for the responses!

I'm ordering a carb rebuild kit today - as soon as I confirm I'm ordering the right one! It needs one no matter what at that age and could easily solve the issue. If not ... it will eliminate it as the problem.

The oil is less milky after changing it once and it running briefly yesterday while we messed with the carb. Still was thinned a bit and still had some gas odor on the dipstick. Not sure, but all the gas run through the carb when it wasn't starting and all the cranking had to go somewhere right? I will flush it out at least 2 more times once I get it to idle and run ok. I did run a pressure check on it as soon as I noticed the milky oil and it held between 13-15 lbs pressure and I didn't see any indication of a cracked block. Still hoping it was condensation. My other thought is it may have come in through a stuck open exhaust flapper, but I don't know.

Two more things I noticed ....

The throttle control has a lot of free play before it actually moves the carb linkage ... almost 4" forward or backward. Probably not the main culprit, but can't be right. Also noticed that the inside flaps going into each barrel were staying closed too unless the throttle was wide open. I need to read a lot more about this carb and figure out how it is supposed to function normally. Hate to do it, but I may have to get the local shop involved. Ugh. Poor rep makes me cringe thinking about it.
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

shot a quick video of the issue today. had to WOT and hold open the choke plate to get it to start. got it to at least barely idle today ... barely. still haven't made any changes other than moving the choke toward lean a little.



guess it's still processing ... :facepalm:
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

found last evening. totally frayed and possibly shorting out. this is for the shift interupt, right?

this can't be good ....

e1c210bd.jpg

14defc93.jpg
 

Fordiesel69

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
1,146
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Definalty need that fixed but I do not think it is you problem from the symptoms.
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

hey ford'. nope, not the problem. got in there for a closer look a few minutes ago. looks like it's actually the power trim wiring. as i was trying to take some of that old tape off to see how bad it was, the wires and jackets just crumbled and fell apart. UGH! time for new wires there no doubt!

still think there is an issue with the throttle linkage and how the carb is reacting to the controls. at idle/neutral is the choke plate supposed to be sprung tightly closed? it seems like it should open some when i try to start it in the neutral position. i shouldn't have to open the throttle to WOT to start it, right? even at WOT, it doesn't want to let much air in and barely starts. if I hold open the plate, it starts right up. when adjusting the choke should it spring the plate closed tighter when turning toward rich? that to me would be backward, right?:confused:

think i need to go back to basic mechanics class.:facepalm:
 

sun burn

Cadet
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
19
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

from what i seen on your video your choke is closed causeing it to suck less air and more gas flooding it...your butter fly should shut when cold and slowly open as it gets warmer to where its stright up and down..that black circle thing on the side should have 3 screws in it get your motor warmed up running lossen the screws and the black pice should turn...turn it until your butter fly is stright up and down..there is a spring behind the black pice that tightens up from heat what controls the butter fly check the line that goes to it also it carries the heat to the spring
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

WOW! Think I avoided a MAJOR emergency this morning! After reading your posts about the choke and several manual pages and pictures, I went out to tinker with the choke assembly. I smelled gas as soon as I hit the carport and knew it shouldn't smell that strong. As I climbed up into the boat and looked around the engine, I noticed that the NEW in-line fuel filter is pouring gas out of one end and into the floor and bilge. How and when it started I have no clue other than it wasn't doing that yesterday afternoon. WTF!?! Having been given the advice of ditching that filter anyway, I scrambled to the local NAPA for some 3/8" fuel line and got that section replaced in about 20 min total, including the trip to the store! I used a whole tub of kitty liter in there soaking up the spill. How the hell does a brand new filter just fail like that!? Especially under no strain of being used! Friggin' super dangerous!!

Is there supposed to be a constant flow of fuel coming through the fuel line up until it gets to the pump, even with the boat off? I thought the pump actually sucked the gas from the tank and into the carb.

Anyway, after all the excitement I finally think I have the choke figured out. The inner coil spring was wound up way too tight and was installed in the wrong position. Looks like it should work much better now. As soon as I get all the spill cleaned up, I'll get it cranked back up to see how it goes. I'll also be re-setting the timing to make sure that is in order as well.

Thanks again for all the advice and patience with this boating rookie!! Much appreciated .... especially if I can actually get out on the water soon! :)
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Wanted to post up these video updates. Finally making a bit of progress. Almost have a real idle all the way down to neutral. It's stayed this way now for 3 attempts, so now it's time to mess it all up again! LOL! Hope not! I'm going ahead with the carb rebuild and replacing the cap, rotor, and points tomorrow when the parts come in. Certainly shouldn't hurt from here .... right!? Once I get that done, it's out to the water to make sure dwell, and timing is set right, and reset the carb idle under load. Anything else I'm forgetting? I was thinking about doing a cylinder compression test again. What else?


 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Once I get that done, it's out to the water to make sure dwell, and timing is set right, and reset the carb idle under load.

Set the dwell and timing at home, it won't change once you are on the water, or at least, it better not. You will have to monkey around with the carb's idle speed and mixture adjustments on the water, so it idles well while in gear, can shift into gear without dying.

For the fuel filter, where do you have it plumbed, do you have a metal line from the fuel pump to the carb? Also, is the fuel filter, just a filter or a water separating fuel filter? You want a water separating fuel filter because of the ethanol (and potentially water) in fuel.

For fuel pushing out of the fuel tank (I take it that's what you were saying) it shouldn't do that. Is your tank higher than the pump and siphoning out, or is the tank building pressure. I would install a anti-siphon valve on the tank, it looks like a hose barb, but has a check ball in it.
 

Dhopper71

Seaman
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
70
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

Set the dwell and timing at home, it won't change once you are on the water, or at least, it better not. You will have to monkey around with the carb's idle speed and mixture adjustments on the water, so it idles well while in gear, can shift into gear without dying. OK. Cool. I'll do that here at the house. Think I'll do the carb rebuild and distributor tune up first. No need to do it twice I guess.

For the fuel filter, where do you have it plumbed, do you have a metal line from the fuel pump to the carb? Also, is the fuel filter, just a filter or a water separating fuel filter? You want a water separating fuel filter because of the ethanol (and potentially water) in fuel. The filter is just the one in the old style Carter mechanical fuel pump. There was an in-line filter, but was useless and then created a large fuel spill. I went out and bought a fuel/water seperator now, too. I'm trying to figure out a spot to mount it before the pump.

For fuel pushing out of the fuel tank (I take it that's what you were saying) it shouldn't do that. Is your tank higher than the pump and siphoning out, or is the tank building pressure. I would install a anti-siphon valve on the tank, it looks like a hose barb, but has a check ball in it. I need to pull the tank line that should have the anti-siphon. Not sure it even has one as the po installed this larger tank new. Doesn't seem pressurized, but looks like it's a constant siphoned flow from the line going from the tank directly to the pump.

Hi Dan.

Thank you for the help! Being a boat rookie is a tad frustrating at times. You guys definitely keep us sane!:D
 

emakowski

Recruit
Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Messages
1
Re: 1974 Mercruiser 140 3.0L will not idle - carb? WARNING - long read - sorry

You can get a manual for that engine for free at 4shared.com

Thank you for the help! Being a boat rookie is a tad frustrating at times. You guys definitely keep us sane!:D[/QUOTE]
 
Top