I just bought a boat and saw this later.....

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
431
Should I be concerend ? was this from poor winter storage? will it happen again if I replace the lower unit?
 

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dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
15,502
Almost exact location as my cracked LU

Mower picked up a stone on the edge of the drive and launched into the side of my lower unit. I wouldn’t have believed it if I didn’t see it happen

Took the lower unit off and took it to a local marina to be welded.

A hundred dollars, some sanding and grinding and two cans of spray paint later I was back boating.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
If its where I think it is, thats a drain cavity just behind the shift shaft in the lower . Most likely was plugged with mud and water. That led to a freeze crack
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
431
so what do I do? buy a lower unit 200 or weld 100? I was going to take it on a test run this weekend ? Bad idea? JB welld as a temp solution and go on the lake for 15 min store? or store now repair in the sping? soory for all the question
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
If the cavity is not leaking oil the case is not damaged. . I would drop the lower , clean the cavity, repair with some JB and redrill the cavity drain hole
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
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5,915
That should not bother to run it around, there is just water inside that cavity. Unless it cracked internally to the oil side also. Milky oil indicates a problem that must be fixed right away. Drain the lower unit, pressure check.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
That should not bother to run it around, there is just water inside that cavity. Unless it cracked internally to the oil side also. Milky oil indicates a problem that must be fixed right away. Drain the lower unit, pressure check.

Agreed.. Either try it out and then check the oil or check the oil and pressure test.
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,671
I had JB weld on my grandfathers outdrive in exactly the same place for many years. Occasionally had to replace the epoxyafter several years but worked fine .
 

Scott06

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
5,671
I had JB weld on my grandfathers outdrive in exactly the same place for many years. Occasionally had to replace the epoxyafter several years but worked fine .
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,559
I recommend weld, grind, fair, paint myself.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
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27,468
Before anything, clean out the water cavity. That's caused by the drain hole at the bottom being blocked.. The crap inside either freezes or just does the old expanding aluminium corrosion thing... Seen it many times here, and we NEVER see freezing temperatures.

Chris.......
 

karayj

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
431
I went weith JB weld and it went well, The outdrive has no water , I added gear oil because it was HALF empty bad drain washer was leaking for 1 1/2 years stored . Then I ran it in a large bucket 4 feet X 4 feet and after 2 days no oil in the BUCKET!!!! asn not milky grear oil!!!!! all is well thanks for all the great advice
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
I am glad you have it fixed, but now may be the time to replace the impeller. There are proper ways to run an engine, while the boat is floating or on muffs. The amount of the outdrive that is submerged in the water primes the raw water pump. The water line has to be pretty high to do so, higher than you are capable of getting in a 4ftx4t bucket. The trim rams prevent the drive from getting deep enough over the edge of a bucket. Even if you remove the trim rams, the water level needs to get higher than the exhaust bellow to prime the pump properly. If you run on muffs, the water pressure is enough to prime the water pump.
 
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