Cracked Outdrive prop hub area

[Guest]

Cracked SX Prop Hub -weld or epoxy?

And the Hits just keep on Comin'!

After replacing the gearcase on my outboard powered Hiliner center console. I was now going to turn my attention on my Hiliner sterndrive cuddy. and discovered this (!) This boat has been laid up for about 5 years with the drive down (no water collection for freezing). Its last outing was in freshwater. It runs great. The outdrive is a 1998 Volvo SX 5.7GS. I discovered this when I was blocking up the trailer for refinishing the boat.

The crack only goes as far as the inside propeller hub area, it does not leak oil, it looks more cosmetic than anything. I'm going to remove the drive for servicing anyway, and thats when I'll do a tune on this crack.

I've heard people use epoxy for repairing cracks like this, as well as welding it. I want to repair this right so I'm leaning towards welding it.

I would like to hear some of your thoughts, especially from anyone whose has repaired with cracked housings before.

Thanks!

 

[Guest]

I'm posting this on the MerCruiser Page because I think you guys have probably ran across this more than any other brand sterndrive owners.

This boat has been laid up for about 5 years with the drive down (no water collection for freezing). Its last outing was in freshwater. It runs great. The outdrive is a 1998 Volvo SX 5.7GS. I discovered this when I was blocking up the trailer for refinishing the boat.

The crack only goes as far as the inside propeller hub area, (forward of the shaft seal) it does not leak oil, it looks more cosmetic than anything. I'm going to remove the drive for servicing anyway, and thats when I'll do a tune on this crack.

I've heard people use epoxy for repairing cracks like this, as well as welding it. I want to repair this right so I'm leaning towards welding it.

I would like to hear some of your thoughts, especially from anyone whose has repaired with cracked housings before.

Thanks!

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Call me a "Nay Sayer" but I would strongly consider a new case or lower drive section to fix it correctly


Reason

Any distortion before of after welding is likely to cause a long term problem with shaft alignment.

If its like a Mercruiser then their will be threads inside the cracked area that will be very hard to re-cut after welding



If your concerned with the cost -- Perhaps running it as is till it fails and saving up for a new one in the mean time.

 

[Scott Danforth]

While I would probably weld it, I would also re-machine the bore after welding. I have access to the tooling and welders to get that done.

I would consider a used or re-man'd lower

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys!, I didn't think this repair would turn this ugly. The sad part is the drive shifts, and runs great, except for that small crack. I suppose I could uses some epoxy or JB (Marine) weld on to extract a few more years out of it.

 

[tpenfield]

The amount of corrosion in/around the crack is concerning. Not sure if the corrosion caused the crack or the crack lead to the corrosion.

I vote for a new lower case, otherwise you'll be casing this problem for a while. Probably need to consider cost alternatives for the various approaches.

The looks of crack and the location sure make it ugly.

 

[Mechmagcn]

I know this sounds recneck as hell, but I've seen it done on worse cracks on outboards successfully. Clean the area of the crack well, mix your choice of epoxy and spread it over the area, place stainless steel hose clamp around housing close to the internal threads. Tighten the clamp to specs, let the epoxy harden and go boating.
Edit: you may have to cut a small slot at the top of the skeg for the clamp, but hey, the housing isn't much good anyway.