Help on 4.3L MPI draining

pharmacist25

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Pictured here is the engine I have. I want to switch this year and use the quick drain single knob to drain the system then fill it manually with the pick antifreeze. For whatever reason I am always suspect as to how much gets in when I suck it through the intake at the sterndrive. Anyway, was going to drain with know and pull plug on thermostat to make sure water out. Need to know which tube to pull off to fill with pink stuff? I think its the large tube on left of thermostat? ZDo I fill it til pink stuff starts coming out of thermostat itself where big tube hooks on? Meaning it has filled the entire block and come full circle? Thanks for the help.
 

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harringtondav

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My larger concern is assuring all of the water in the block drains out. After that adding anitfreeze provides minimal value. If your block has the small (1/4 - 1/8") NPT plugs, you really need to probe them to assure any sand and debris are removed so that half of the block is drained. Same with the exhaust manifold drains. Don't forget the lower circ. water pump hose and PS cooler.

I don't know the specifics of your proposed single point system, but I doubt you'll know if every point has fully drained. I've read more posts on people removing single point systems than I have on installing one.

Adding antifreeze thru the out drive pick up is more than a little iffy. The thermostat must be open for any to enter the engine block. Else it just pours back out thru the exhaust. The best ways to fill your block with antifreeze - after you're 100% certain the block is fully drained - is to remove the thermostat hsg., and fill from there, or remove the horiz. cabin heater supply plug in the intake manifold just left of the thermo. hsg., and fill thru there until antifreeze splashes on the ground at the gimbal plate at the transom.
 

pharmacist25

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so you are saying don't pull the large hose off of thermostat and fill, you think pulling thermostat off and filling the block there is better?
I have the single point drain but will pull all the blue plugs I can find and probe them as well. I know there is one at the thermostat but I cannot remember how many others there are. How much AF should it take to fill the block? DO the hoses have to be filled separately or will filling the block back it up into the hoses?
 

harringtondav

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I've never filled from that top hose, but I've read on this forum how to do it. If I get it wrong, I know a couple of experts who will add. First be sure the lower end of that hose is fully drained, as well as the engine circ. pump. Otherwise you'll just push any water back into the engine, and dillute your A/F.

The A/F will fill the block from the bottom up, and flow out the top of the intake manifold back into the thermo. hsg. I believe there's a bypass hole in the thermostat that will allow the other three hoses to fill. But to be sure, pull an exhaust manifold hose from the thermo hsg, and see if A/F drains once the block is full. Then keep filling until you hear the A/F draining on the ground at the drive. You may have to hold that fill hose higher than the exhaust risers to get them to fill.

I believe it takes close to 2 Gal. for a 4.3
 

pharmacist25

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the lower end of that big hose off the thermostat housing? make sure that the lower end of it is fully drained? How do I make sure engine circ. pump is drained? Thanks for the advice.
 

Walt T

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Just open the single point drain, wait till it stops draining, or not, then pull the quick connect hoses from the block connections and poke a small screwdriver into the block to make sure those fittings aren't plugged. Once done draining, reconnect hoses, leave single point drain valve open and the blue plug off. All you V6 Vortec owners, lower the front of the boat down to let water still in the intake manifold to drain out avoiding a cracked intake. Usually they drain ok but if you have the nose of the boat up high to let water out of the bilge drain and leave it like that all winter you could have a cracked intake manifold in spring. It can and does happen. Under no circumstances will I put antifreeze in a customers engine. Just leave it. Air doesn't freeze. I have yet to replace a cracked engine that I winterized.

As far as circ pump pull lower hose off and its drained
 

pharmacist25

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Thanks Walt. Where are the quick connect hoses that you speak of and how many are there? You talking about number 17 in the diagram? under each side of the block? (2 of them?
 

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Walt T

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That picture is pretty small and if I blow it up its fuzzy. Looks like 17 and 10. Easy to reach down and find it, press on the quick connect tab and it comes right off
 

pharmacist25

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My mistake, how about check the link below and see which numbers they are when you have time.
Also which blue plugs do you leave off?
 

Walt T

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Both of them are #17 Cylinder block to distribution fitting. There may be a blue plug on the accumulator (globe as I call it)
When you open the drain that's what the water comes out of. Look where the water is coming out and if there is a blue plug leave it out and the drain open. If you choose to use antifreeze well then its all got to be closed up.Sometimes it's tight access in some boats and reaching down to those hoses may have to be done by feel. Maybe use a mirror and a flashlight to see. Right side of motor is easy its in front of the starter. The quick connect is easy just push the plastic tab and hose will come right off easily. Just push it back on until it clicks. Need a pretty small screwdriver withe 2-3 inch shank to get in there.
 
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pharmacist25

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Both of them are #17 Cylinder block to distribution fitting. There may be a blue plug on the accumulator (globe as I call it)
When you open the drain that's what the water comes out of. Look where the water is coming out and if there is a blue plug leave it out and the drain open. If you choose to use antifreeze well then its all got to be closed up.Sometimes it's tight access in some boats and reaching down to those hoses may have to be done by feel. Maybe use a mirror and a flashlight to see. Right side of motor is easy its in front of the starter. The quick connect is easy just push the plastic tab and hose will come right off easily. Just push it back on until it clicks. Need a pretty small screwdriver withe 2-3 inch shank to get in there.

Ok. Quick connects may be hard to get hands on but will see. I assume you mean I need a small screwdriver to pop the quick connects off right?
I know where water drains and blue plug on globe is.
In the end I will probably close everything back up and pour AF in at the housing just to be safe.
ANythign I need to watch for with this?
 

Walt T

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No, the purpose of the screwdriver is to stick it in the fitting the hose comes off of to clear any rust flakes inside the engine that may be blocking the flow of water out that fitting. i do that to every single boat every side every time.even if I know it's drained. Just covering my you know what. The picture link you sent me, look at the box off to the side it shows the part you press on with fingers, its #18. Just push the tab hold it and pull off hose. You'll be able to feel that little piece if plastic.
 

Walt T

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Pouring antifreeze in the housing may not fill the exhaust manifolds but the single point drains those well because those drain holes are huge compared to block drain holes. Search here about how to fill motor with antifreeze, There's some very good straight forward instructions.
 

Maclin

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Great stuff Walt T , very appropriate to my situation as I now own a Merc with that single point drain (with 2 blue plugs that don't count to Merc I guess), sigh. Good to "hear" from you again!
 

pharmacist25

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I have a 2008 Mercruiser 4.3L MPI alpha drive with the single point drain. Anyone know how many blue drain plugs I should be undoing?
 

achris

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There's 2 blue plugs. One on the thermostat housing to allow air to enter as the water drains away, and the other on the front of the single point drain housing... (photos 1 and 2) BUT, do not assume all the water is out by just opening the 'one tap crack' valve. It almost certainly is not!

Once some of the water has drain, pull the grey 'click connects' off each side of the engine block (photo 3 and 4. 4 it's a bit difficult to see, it's behind the oil hose). They are the smaller of the hoses leading away from the water manifold at the front of the engine, at the bottom (part of photo 2)... Now probe up into the block with a long stiff wire or screwdriver and wriggle it around... You'll likely get lots more water out... Continue probing until you are sure all the water's gone...

The hoses from the exhaust manifolds are quite a bit bigger, but I wouldn't rely on that fact to ensure the water's gone. I would pop the hoses facing forward at the bottom of each manifold and make sure they ARE empty.... (photo 5)

The large hose between the water pump and the thermostat (photo 6) is drained when you opened the one tap crack valve...

Chris......

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Maclin

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There is one on the intake manifold right at the front, it acts as a vent, unscrew it before you open the drain handle or right after. There is also a blue plug on the water distribution housing, the thing on lower front port corner of the engine with the orange drain hose on it that the water comes out of when you open the blue handle.. Instructions say to pull that plug if you suspect that there may be residual water in that housing, that is odd to me the Merc leaves it to the individual's discretion.

As Walt and others have mentioned, the engine block may not drain well after an engine has many seasons on it with just those drain points being exercised. That is why the added precaution of removing the hose connections at the engine block drain and prodding the openings with a long pick or skinny screwdriver is being recommended.

I hate that system, it has more water in all the plumbing than it does in the engine block it seems. A LOT of water comes out when you open the handle, so you tend to think it is good to go, especially when you are used to engine systems that just have the drain plugs. Hard to believe Merc did that to "us".

I had to replace that housing on mine this year at beginning of the season. I R&R'd the engine last year when the coupler failed in that new-to-me boat in my sig pic after 6 trips. I know I bumped that housing some along the way, I did not have a lot of room, maybe stressed it somehow. Or it may have just frozen as i did not take that plug out, we had 3-4 days of 16-18 degrees last winter here in North Texas. After my first shakedown trip this season after about an hour on the lake, I had about 3-4 gallons of cold water that came out of the bilge when I drained it. Ran it on the hose at home, reached under that housing and felt the water trickling out. I removed it, I could not see where the crack was. Put a new one in and all dry again.
 
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