Water in oil I think

[IcantDo55]

I have a 1995 3.0lx that had been great for many years. It sat all winter as normal with heat lamp in engine compartment as I always do. We rarely see Temps below 20* here in Virginia Beach. Went to drain oil and saw this mess in my oil. I have since flushed the motor 3 times with diesel running a minute each time. It's clearer now.

What's the common water intrusion point? How can I find it? Should I fill it with oil and see if it happens again? Seems to run fine. There was a suggestion from a friend that it might be bad intake gasket? Does that even seal water from oil?

Lost. Thanks

 

[IcantDo55]

1 2 3 flush

 

[nola mike]

Common water intrusion point on an unwinterized engine is a cracked block...
Can get it from failed exhaust manifolds as well, leaking past the rings. Would be worth it to refill with oil and see if you get the milkshake back. If so, time to pressure test the block and likely start looking for a new one.

 

[IcantDo55]

Agreed about the cracked block. I just like to exhaust all other possibllilties before I spend 4k for new motor.

So on a this marine engine the intake manifild seals oil from water?

How do you pressure test block? Someone make a connector to do that? I have one for automotive radiators but obviously there is no cap here and it's open being raw waster cooling.

 

[IcantDo55]

Common water intrusion point on an unwinterized engine is a cracked block...
Can get it from failed exhaust manifolds as well, leaking past the rings. Would be worth it to refill with oil and see if you get the milkshake back. If so, time to pressure test the block and likely start looking for a new one.

Ok so I spent last few hours reading. The exhust/intake manifold can only leak water into the CYC and it would have to get past rings into oil, right?

How about head gasket? That possible?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... Anything is possible, but you've got a cracked block,.....

If you'd removed 2 drain plugs, 'n 1 hose end, this Couldn't have happened,.....

Air don't freeze,.....

 

[tpenfield]

I feel like we are setting a world's record this season for cracked engine blocks, and so late in the season. :noidea:

The first stage of a cracked block is usually denial . . .

 

[IcantDo55]

I've lived here for 20 years and always two hear lamps in the bar and no issues. I guess it's possible but denial is the answer.

 

[Maclin]

Power can go out over the winter, that needs to be considered when thinking of depending on lamps and block heaters and such.

 

[nola mike]

...And we had a pretty good stretch of single digits in my neck of the woods, don't know how much warmer it was at the beach...

 

[Scott Danforth]

Running 20 year old 3.0 motors in junk hulls are about $300-$500

 

[IcantDo55]

Running 20 year old 3.0 motors in junk hulls are about $300-$500

Love to find one of them but noting local I can see. Found a $3000 rebuild engine.

What these go for? What do I look for? Mine was a 1995 3.0lx are all 3.0lx the same or is there a year range I should look for?

 

[Scott Danforth]

for a 3.0, the biggest issue is pre 1991 and 1991 and later.

for 1991, they changed to the 1-piece rear main seal.

a new 3.0 long block is only $2650 a bit more if you want a distributor. swap over your accessories, buy a new exhaust manifold and elbow and your into a complete new boat motor for $3100

depending on where you are, you should be able to find a motor. you may have to drive. search craigslist, specifically looking for cheap boats.... the 3.0 will be the most common one in a junk hull that someone left outside and the floor rotted. many times they are listed as free boat, must buy trailer. dont be afraid to drive a few hours either.

dont look for just a motor as once someone spends labor and pulls the motor from a $300 boat, the motor price jumps to $1200

 

[TurtleTamer]

I live on Willoughby Bay (the stretch of water before going through the HRBT toward Hampton) and it froze over solid this year in January. I believe it was below freezing for an entire week straight. I've only been here nine years but have never seen sea ice in the bay, and like I said the entire Willoughby bay froze over from my house to Norfolk Naval Base. A couple of heat lamps wouldn't have done it IMO.

I have a 3.0 as well and there are some deals on them on CL around here. One guy wants $500 for a complete 140 but I believe it's an older one.

 

[nola mike]

https://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/d/1985-renken-197mercruiser/6623053859.html

 

[IcantDo55]

Ok so update. Flushed with diesel 3x and refilled with used clean oil. Ran today on muffs for 15 minutes and drained the oil and .... ... ..... . Looks great. How this possible? Condensation?

Guess on water test next?

Thoughts??

 

[TurtleTamer]

I would at a bare mininum compression test it and put new oil/filter. Maybe you got lucky, though I don't see that much being condensation.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you cant get the block warm enough on muffs. however once under load, the crack will open up....

 

[TurtleTamer]

And just in case...

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bpo/d/mercruiser-marine-chevy/6626224681.html

Assuming one is good and/or you can cobble them together and have some spare parts.

 

[IcantDo55]

And just in case...

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bpo/d/mercruiser-marine-chevy/6626224681.html

Assuming one is good and/or you can cobble them together and have some spare parts.

Good find.