4.3l Alpha 2008 stalling surging rpm oddities

dgyank70

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Hello all-

I am a software guy, non-mechanic, so please cut me some slack as I try to debug and communicate. My neighbor is a long time mechanic but hasn't had experience with this TKS or the electronic advance timing; he would prefer the carburetor was a simple mechanical one without TKS in play at all, for instance.

Brief history

Boat was short on power about a month ago. Neighbor replaced a spark plug, power back to ~4500 rpm or so.
Next weekend, I only got it up to 4000 or so, but noticed it occasionally would pick up or lose RPM without touching the throttle (i.e., a sudden surge to a higher rpm, or a reduction), but things still seemed pretty normal.
I left town for a couple weeks, and neighbor continued to debug; he found more odd behavior such as surging and changes in top RPM, as well as stalling out at idle and when shifting.
Following weekend, was stalling out when I tried to shift into gear. Idle seemed normal, but would try to die as I shifted.

Serial # is
1A335597

Recent / current symptoms

While I was gone for a few weekends, my neighbor saw
-low idle
-low rpm
-stalling out
-but also all normal (high rpm, normal idle)
In shared troubleshooting together this weekend, we've seen all of the above again.
Sometimes it stalls out when shifting into gear, sometimes it stalls out after returning to neutral, sometimes it seems to have power, sometimes it doesn't, and TKS at least on one occasion seemed to be engaged when I don't think it should have been (i.e., after engine warm, heard air hissing through its passage).

Things we've looked at and tried to validate

Fuel
We've pumped gas into a jar (through the engine) and verified that we don't see much in the way of debris or water
Volume seems ok (but we haven't measured pressure)
The filter at the top is clean as a whistle (but we haven't checked the upstream filter or tank).

Idle speed
Neighbor adjusted the idle speed and we had it around 650-700 baseline idle, saw same behaviors. Also kicked it up to 1000, still saw stalling out and such.

Interrupt switch / shift cable
These could both cause problems when trying to shift, as I understand it. Cable seems ok, and my neighbor isolated the switch (i.e., disconnected it) and we still saw the same behavior.

2 Barrel Carburetor / TKS
Neighbor was keying in on the TKS system. This normally does its thing when cold, and can be heard 'hissing' until engine warms up (I always just thought it was a random hose noise that went away after a few minutes of heating up before we started researching).

So we 'bypassed' the TKS by disconnecting it and 'mostly' closing the air passage that TKS is meant to open and close depending on temperature.
It seems that we have the same sporadic idle stallout, and/or stall when shifting, etc even when TKS isn't engaged.

Spark plugs
One was replaced; but another went bad, according to my neighbor, who is suspicious of the distributor cap / TKS as well.

Distributor
Pulled this apart. The cap shows signs of corrosion on the contacts (?) inside the cylinder, and on the rotor (with the contact on top). The cap also shows signs of heat / fractures that don't look good. Note that this boat, while only in freshwater, did take on a lot of water early in its life (it was delivered with a leaking gasket, took on rain, and the bilge pump went south for a while).

Timing
My neighbor has adjusted the base timing (but I think only by his mechanic background, without putting the engine into base timing mode, etc).



Our best current guesses and next steps:

Our next step is to replace the distributor cap and the (rotor? is that the right name? The white/yellow piece with the metal contact on top) as its contact is also rusty / cruddy.

1
It appears that the advance timing is not properly functioning, so when the engine is put in gear, depending on the throttle, it is sometimes working, sometimes not, etc.

2
But it could also be that there's a sporadic fuel problem (like debris that are in the fuel tank or early filter, and occasionally clogging the fuel line)

3
It could also be that we didn't follow baseline idle timing properly and somehow that's contributing (but it seems to idle mostly ok, seems to have a problem when throttle is engaged or released).


My questions

Could we have messed up non-idle performance in trying to adjust the timing at idle?
Do I have the Thunderbolt ignition IV or V, or neither?? (Not sure what this even is but I've seen reference to it).
Assuming our idle / base timing is correct, what controls the advance timing? We think it must be electronic, and probably delivered by the black module.
(Model # Sae j1223).

Best guesses from the experienced forum watchers?
Advice & counsel?

Thanks for any constructive feedback.
 

alldodge

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42,071
Could we have messed up non-idle performance in trying to adjust the timing at idle?
Do I have the Thunderbolt ignition IV or V, or neither??

Yes, Timing is adjustable but not by methods your thinking of. It has a crankshaft position sensor which triggers the coil to fire. The distributor has what most call is a crab cap. The crab (most call it crap) fails without warning, This currently is not your issue, just a foot note. Distributer is installed in the motor as shown below, and is not adjusted unless it doesn't run. Then it is just turned ever so slightly one way or the other for best performance.

Dist.jpg


So reset the distributor as shown and try again. Then let us know what you find
 

dgyank70

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Jun 18, 2016
Messages
36
Thanks guys-
My mind is dizzy with the data and our testing, but I think as follows:

I'm pretty sure the distributor is set as documented.
Fresh behavior today:
-when cold, with TKS hissing (i.e., letting more fuel in while cold and thereby making that noise), idled ok, left my slough ok.
-we disconnected TKS before it got warmed up all the way (meaning that we unplugged it before its cycle had finished)
-in that condition, the boat seemed to run great, better than I remember (makes sense because neighbor had also cleaned / checked carburetor and such)
-got smoothly to ~4100 rpm, got on plane pretty quickly, etc
-but then TKS seemed to kick in (i.e., we could feel the TKS unit pretty warm, and the hissing went away), and the boat wanted to stall out on acceleration again
-from there, my neighbor could adjust the smoothness/ability to run by just covering the carburetor with his hand or not (in degrees)

So our best guess as of this AM is that
-when TKS kicks in and 'leans' the mix (by quitting its hissing and additional fuel), the engine seems to be lacking fuel and wants to stall & cut out
-so it might be
0) the distributor cap and/or rotor (they both look bad, corroded and cracks and such; but they certainly didn't seem to cause a problem running this AM) ; we plan to replace these regardless
1) a fuel problem (but again, we've checked most of that; he plans to check the bottom of the carburetor (didn't fully take it out yet)
2) a timing problem (which I've read can again make things 'seem' like a fuel problem), leaning towards the ignition module giving the distributor bad data to advance (?? outrunning my limited knowledge)
3) the TKS itself (even though it seems to function normally (as judged by its hissing), is it perhaps not?)

Incidentally, I have had a bad temperature reading for a while; the gauge is reporting high temp even at cold engine. Last year, we replaced the sending unit but that didn't fix it, and bought a thermostat but haven't yet swapped it in. Now the same 3 part gauge is showing high oil pressure all the time, so it seems likely to me that those gauges are bad. But perhaps there is a bad thermostat reading being sent somewhere? But still, I would think that would make TKS say it needs 'more' fuel, not less...

Feedback welcome, just be gentle as I'm a non-mechanical type struggling to stay within sight of my neighbor's forty years of experience, but also trying to give him some documented ideas so it's not all diagnostic by disassembly on his part. :)

​Thanks!
 

alldodge

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The TKS module opens the solenoid on the carb when cold to give it more fuel. If it is unplugged the solenoid closes off the extra fuel.

Putting your hand over the carb gives the motor more fuel (choking off some air, therefore it draws more from the carb).

A gauge showing high can be caused by the sender, gauge or the sender wire grounding out. Gauges show full out (hot, max pressure, etc) if the sender wire is grounded. Several gauges doing this would cause me to check 12V at the gauges.
 

dgyank70

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Yes, gotcha re the solenoid...
We were thinking that by disconnecting it before it finished its cycle, the solenoid would maybe be left partially engaged, meaning extra fuel would be going in even when engine was warm... Does that make sense?

Is it plausible that maybe the distributor cap and rotor, with signs of corrosion and other damage, might explain the sporadic stalling and stumbling?
And so by leaving the tks engaged, maybe enough fuel was going in to mask it?

In any case, it seemed to run well when tks is in cold mode, then stumbled and started acting up again when warmed up...

Thanks for the tip re the gauges...

Thank you!
 

dgyank70

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Hello- any fresh thoughts? About to go order some parts, starting with
-distributor cap and rotor
-possibly TKS
-possibly ignition module

Feedback welcome
(including online parts suggestions)

Thanks
 

alldodge

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Nothing new from my side
Timing needs to be correct
cap and rotor needs replaced from your statement the they are corroded


After that, see if there is any noticeable change. If no change
I would rebuild or replace the carb
Don't think you have a module going bad

As previously started, everything needs to be set correctly, and filters should be clean, gas in good shape and accurate results from testing found. If you say something like I'm pretty sure it is correct, then all bets are off.
 

dgyank70

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So my neighbor has tested it for the past two days after cleaning out the carburetor (top and bottom).
So far, it seems to be doing fine again, not stalling out, not surging or falling back in RPM.
So maybe there was some sporadic gunk or restrictions in there?

However, it does still seem that the top end is down a bit from maybe 4500-5000 rpm, down to ~4000 instead.

From a timing perspective, he's confident of base timing (idle), but we think that the timing under throttle is all electronic, and that's where we suspect that maybe still that might be limiting me.

Any last thoughts on that?

Thanks again to all of you for your feedback.
 

alldodge

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Run it for 20 hours and see if it gets better. If it does not do a compression and leak down test to verify the overall health of the motor. Look at the plugs and see if they are burning correctly. If they check good, and compression and leak down numbers check out, the things that are left are back to what folks have been saying all along, spark, timing or fuel.

You cleaned the carb once more and now it runs better, the carb may just be worn out or still needs even more cleaning, or again fuel pressure and flow.
 

Bondo

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From a timing perspective, he's confident of base timing (idle), but we think that the timing under throttle is all electronic, and that's where we suspect that maybe still that might be limiting me.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... That's highly unlikely,....
 

dgyank70

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Well, I've been waiting for my very own Ayuh! :)

I'm from CT originally, so I figure you got your Ayuh from up north somewhere, no?

Any theories then, on the somewhat lower RPM at the moment? It's not critical, as I'd trade a reliable 4000 rpm for an unreliable 4500 rpm any day, ha!

But in our testing, we've on occasion seen it as high as 4500, and I'd occasionally see it 'surge' without touching the throttle as well.
Currently, it seems to be stable at around 4100 and no surging or stalling (after all the teardown / cleaning / etc we've done).

Thanks very much!!!
 

Bondo

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so I figure you got your Ayuh from up north somewhere, no?

Ayuh,.... Born, 'n raised on the western frontier of Downeast Maine,..... Old Town,....

Been an exile over here in the kingdom of cuomo for over 40 years now though,....
Folks still tell me I talk funny,...

I see a fuel delivery issue,....
Hook a tank of fresh clean fuel right to the fuel pump, 'n try it,.....
That eliminates the "Boat" side of the fuel system,....
At that point, it's either the fuel pump failin', or the carb is fulla crap,....
 

dgyank70

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Maine it is- that was the obvious place, I just threw a wide net... :)
We used to spend time in the summers going up to Maine, picking those little native blueberries out in the fields, great place.

I'm now in Alabama. People down here say I talk funny. And now my family back in CT say I talk funny...

Thank you for your hypotheses.
We did pump some fuel (from the line) into a glass, let it sit, didn't see any water, and the volume of the flow looked solid (but we did not check the pressure; my neighbor said it was way plenty to keep gas flowing based on his mechanic background).
Re: the carburetor, we did see some gunk in the top, and cleaned that. He then took the bottom out and cleaned out all the different ports & such.
It has been since that that (for about 3 testing sessions) he's seeing a solid ~4100 rpm and no oddities.
Re: fuel pump, I will keep that option in my back pocket as well, thanks.

All in all, sounds like maybe the carb was the culprit. Still hope to reclaim another ~4-500 rpm sometime, but that's not critical...

Thanks again!
 
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