83 15hp Evenrude takes to many pulls to start

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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It is easy to put the square plastic choke knob in upside down.----Then choke does not close properly.--------I say choke is not closing properly or cord is not pulled fast enough on cold start.
 

Steelhand

Seaman
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Dec 3, 2018
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racerone: your dead on with the pull speed. The first time I pulled it I noticed it was slow as Christmas. I Told my wife " she had to assist with the pulling because I was wore out" that it seemed not to pull that good.

I was thinking of taking the cowl off and double rap a pull rope on the flywheel when I trouble shoot. Just to give it some more distance with the pull.

My wife just swapped the fuel line from the pump to the carb with a temp see through hose "she's a doll" so I can see if there is any issues with fuel getting to the carb at the next first start attempts.

Man, we're going to hang this one out to dry. I dislike mystery's with a passion. Great minds think alike
 

racerone

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That magneto will not produce spark if the flywheel is not turning fast enough.----Start looking for a donor motor with the electric start bits.----They are out there.
 

Steelhand

Seaman
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Dec 3, 2018
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Okay, please clarify "electric start bits" Is that a couple of components from a electric start motor that will help the situation or convert over to electric start? Sorry, newbie here remember?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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You need the starter mounting bracket / flywheel / starter motor.----Locally sourced wiring.----Donor motor is the only way to go.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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It sounds like you are a great candidate for an electric start 9.9 or 15. The older motors ('50s) are pretty easy to covert once you locate all the bits required, Yours might be more difficult, but if you can find an electric start parts motor (9.9 or 15), you could convert yours. The stater button on these motors is located in the front, as is the stop button in a non-remote set up.
 

Steelhand

Seaman
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Dec 3, 2018
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Update on my starting problems for the post helpers. Going to convert to electric start tomorrow. A older friend with experience in this field is doing the work and has all the parts.

Now, here's what I wanted to pass by the group. About all the pulling. I put the motor on the boat then in a barrel of water. I had my wife stick a screwdriver in from the shifter side and advance the cam roller forward ever so slightly. She fired up in 4 pulls.

To test on the water. I adjusted the cam roller back about the distance she said it was moved. I tied a piece of string on the cam follower to be able to advance myself if my roller adjustment did not work. Got her on the water, pulled 8 times with nothing. Pulled the string for what I though was a little bit and she fired up 4th pull. Let her warm up and 1 pull start the rest of the day.

What would be the DIY fix?
 

tomhath

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 5, 2007
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814
Can't you just twist the throttle a little more? The labels on the tiller handle are just a ballpark suggestion.
 

oldboat1

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In review, I see you addressed a question to me on air/fuel mix adjustment. It looks like I didn't respond -- sorry for that. There is an idle adjustment screw on your motor (air/fuel) as you are aware. Close it carefully clockwise, and from it's seated position open it about 1 turn or a little more. The motor should run -- start and warm it up, then at a slow idle (or as slow as it will keep running), slowly turn the needle clockwise (leaner -- less fuel) about 1/8 turn at a time, letting the motor catch up. Do this until the motor lean sneezes (sounds like a light backfire) or wants to stall. At that point, open the needle about 1/4 turn and this should be a correct setting. The adjustment requires some back pressure, so do it with the motor in a barrel (water about half way up the leg) or in the lake. You want the leanest setting at which the motor idles well and shifts into gear without stalling. For cold starting, I sometimes enrichen the setting a bit until it starts and runs, then go back to the leaner run position. The high speed jet is fixed on your motor -- jet must be clean, but no additional adjustment.

On the roller/cam follower: adjusting the roller is part of the "link and sync" procedure. The black plastic cam under the retainer and link assembly is held in place by friction. You should not be able to move it with your finger. There is a marker on the cam that shows where the roller must be when it initially contacts the cam (by rotating the grip counter clockwise). When it touches that point, tighten the screw just enough to hold the position. When you turn the grip fully clockwise (slow), the roller will not be in contact with the cam, but the motor will continue to run if clean and tuned. There is a throttle stop to control how slowly you want the motor to run. On mine, I sometimes set them to keep slowly idling until I use the shut-off button (or choke).

As the cam moves counter clockwise with the timing plate (grip twisted clockwise to throttle up), the roller will hit the high point of the cam, fully opening the throttle plate. (Note -- until the roller touches the cam marker on the slow end, the throttle plate will be closed.)

Hope this helps.
 

oldboat1

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(oops. Note -- grip obviously twists c.clockwise when throttling up. sorry for the confusion.)
 
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