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1975 Evinrude 9.9 no start

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  • 1975 Evinrude 9.9 no start

    Okay so Having some issues. I'm not what you called experienced with outboards, not to say im mechanically challenged cars I'm good, but 2 stokes, carbs, and outboards are kinda new to me. SO I've got a Frankenstein's monster of a motor since I ended up getting a few free motors at some level of parted out and made a complete one. What ive done so far is: got a 105/110psi full powerhead that I dissasembled due to waterjackets having salt deposits cleaned new gaskets and reassembled, new thermostat, new ignition coils, new plugs, carb rebuild/15hp carb swap, new fuel lines, waterpump, lower unit resealed etc. Its a maunal start + electric start setup, but im only using rope start to rule that part out The issue Im have is a no start. Initially pulled and pulled, stopped, thought it over realized I had my cylinder ignitions swapped *DOH*. Pulled and pulled figured I flooded it and stopped. Next night I tested found I had no spark to either cylinder and was testing on the magneto. Continuity of coil lead wires was good. Tested all my coil and magneto grounds all 1 Ohm good. Primary coil was good 2.4ohms (electric start and compared against my 2 other spares), figured out my points were the cause on the no start. They were completely black and had a little spark erosion so i pinched a piece of 220 sandpaper between the points and pulled it through until the surface on both sides of both points was clean and smooth. Gapped my points to .020/.0195 at TDC. Tested spark #1 good spark #2 slightly weaker spark...figuired it would be okay though. Pulled pulled nada and then after like 6 yanks i could hear one cylinder starting to sputter few more pulls and nope nothing again, probably flooded checked lean idle screw probably too far out. Followed online tip to bottom it out then back off 1.5 turns. Came back next morning pulled the flywheel and realized on cyl #2 I forgot to tighten down the screw for the wires on the point, stupid mistake, but explains the weak spark. Got that fixed pulled a few times nada, then sputtering a few pulls, then nothing. At this point i looked inside the carb fully choked and could see gas at the bottom of the mouth of the carb. Any tips on where to check next? Only thing i didnt do was try and adjust the carb float. I saw somewhere youd flip the carb upside down and bend the float arm until the float was parallel with the carb body. Any help would be greatly appreciated

  • #2
    The term ---" good spark " ---does not mean too much to folks here.------Does spark jump a gap in air of 5/16" ( 8 mm ) or more , yes or no ?

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    • #3
      That im not sure, Im using a fairly generic spark tester, not the adjustable gap screw kind

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      • #4
        Originally posted by racerone View Post
        The term ---" good spark " ---does not mean too much to folks here.------Does spark jump a gap in air of 5/16" ( 8 mm ) or more , yes or no ?
        If it were a bad spark what would be suspect? Ignition wise new ql77jc4 plugs, new plug wires and coils, good primary coil. Should I test resistance on all the wires and the condensors?

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        • #5
          When you sanded and set the points did you also clean them? They should be cleaned with something like acetone.

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          • #6
            Check Ebay for an oem service manual (looks like a number of them available.)

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            • #7
              As already suggested, spark on a plug that's out in the air doesn't mean you'll have spark under compression. Test for a strong spark that can jump the 5/16" gap; with the plugs out you can use a cordless drill on the flywheel nut to spin it.

              Make sure you have solid copper core wires; automotive wires have some resistance built in that isn't compatible with magneto ignition.

              You said you rebuilt the carb. Did you pull the jets and welsh plugs and soak everything in carb cleaner for a few hours? The low speed circuit is especially prone to clogging. Blow everything out with compressed air before reassembling and be sure the float valve is closing by blowing into the inlet port with your mouth.

              Also make sure the choke is fully closing, it's easy to get the choke knob upside down so it looks like it's working but it doesn't close all the way.

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              • #8
                Your plug needs to be a UL81C the plug you are using is for a cdi ignition not points. Replace your.pints and condensors with OEM. That motor is hard on the point and condensor sets.

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                • #9
                  I went with those as I have the higher compression post 76 head that was supposed to help with fouling as well as the updated exhaust cover with the water overboard indicator outlet. Yeah Ive heard the points and condensors are a pain in the ***. Ive got 2 other sets of 74'-76' points and condensors would those be worst testing? With new points and condensors you reccomentd being ~$40 should I just test my CDI pack and get a CDI magneto with elkectric strart as they run about $50 on ebay since they are more reliable and easier to service?

                  Actually no I didnt clean with acetone...I figuired the new surface exposed by sanding would be clean enough. I will give that a shot though.

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                  • #10
                    The post 76 head is lower compression not higher. Spark plug goes with the ignition not the head. I would absolutely convert the ignition but you may need a flywheel. Use the electric start as it has nothing to do with the ignition side of things.

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                    • #11
                      Those 74 / 76 ignitions are quite good.----I refurbished a 74 model 10 years ago or more.----Owner says it runs great and does not want to get rid of it.

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                      • #12
                        Already have the electric start flywheel. As far as soaking the carb or pulling the Welsh plugs I didnt. The carb didnt appear to have any build up of any sort anywhere so I sprayed it out I figuired good enough. I was kinda thinking the same thing as I've already pulled the carb. Tonight I'll give her a good soak and pull the plugs to make sure none of those small passages or holes are clogged

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                        • #13
                          I'll also pick up a proper adjustable gap spark tester and hook up the electric start. Lord knows it's hard to measure a spark when your yanking on a rope lol

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                          • #14
                            I had a 9.5 Johnson. I could finally get it to start at the house and would run great, but get to the lake and many times would not start. Tried for months to find the problem. Even a new coil. Then one day looked at the kill switch wires. They were dry rotted and sometimes would short out preventing it from starting.

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                            • #15
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                              Yeah I checked that one. Tried starting without it connected just in case.

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